Starter and dipstick info needed.

ng8264723 · #1 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 12:15 PM

What are you guys using for starters? Which brands etc......Also how difficult are they to change? My motor is currently going togethere and I'm not sure if i run a pan dipstick or the conventional location. Which is the common technique? Also what type of alternators are people using?
thanks
chris
Getting closer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ronbo · #2 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 01:35 PM

With the Aviad pan you use a BB chevy dipstick with a compression fitting (check my gallery). Block the old location with RTV.

Kieth Craft can probably ship you out one already setup.

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronbo

With the Aviad pan you use a BB chevy dipstick...

With the Canton you're going to have to fab it in...

RodKnock · #4 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 03:07 PM

Also, make sure your dipstick doesn't say "Made in Taiwan" on it or otherwise your Cobra buddies will give you guff when you open up the hood.

I used an Autolite alternator for a more original appearance. I can't remember which brand of Hi-Torq starter that I went with, but I'll search my receipts.

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I can't remember which brand of Hi-Torq starter that I went with, but search my receipts.

Naaah, you want an OEM, big-ass, basic black starter motor that will break your foot if you drop it on it.

lemans24 · #6 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 03:50 PM

i went by kirkhams list for starter and alternator. remember your car might be set up for a hi torque mini starter, which means if you go with the big starter like the old engines(assuming FE engine), you will need to splice the battery cable and wire harness and add a selenoid. i put an armando pan on it with bb chevy dip stick from jegs.

RodKnock · #7 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Naaah, you want an OEM, big-ass, basic black starter motor that will break your foot if you drop it on it.

Not if you're attempting to subtract weight.

Chris, are you using a Quicktime bellhousing?

ng8264723 · #8 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 05:47 PM

I already have a Lakewood. I understand the quicktime is lighter. I'm just a little skeptical of it being as safe. Afterall F=ma2. Therefore the greater the mass the greater the force. A slightly heavier scattershield will contain a greater explosion.
As far as the starter goes. The recomended unit is lighter than the factory starter? I did look at there unit Powermaster 3131. It that the lighter one?

patrickt · #9 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 06:30 PM

That starter of mine is bound to weigh a good bit more than a new-fangled hi-torque job, but don't sell her short -- I've driven my car on nothing more than the starter and still passed a couple of FIAs....

Jamo · #10 (**permalink**) 05-07-2009, 10:03 PM

That there was damn funny.

RICK LAKE · #11 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 06:18 AM

ng8264723 Chris Who ever is building the motor, let them install the tube and dipstick. You want the correct reading for the oil level. Too much is alot better than too little. For starters, I run a tilton mini starter. I did have to replace the bendix drive because of the bellhousing not being centered on the one assembly of motor 452. I was .038" out and the teeth on the bendix drive where all chipped from too much edge. It is very important that you center the Lake wood bell housing before you install the motor. Not sure what trans you ended up with but make sure that the input shaft is not too long. This problem happens with some of the GM trans input shafts into an FE lakewood bell housing. It's in the fine print for tech tips. You need a microscope to read this. You may need to remove .380" off the pilot end. If not, you could wipeout the thrust bearing in the motor. This mistake will cause MAJOR damage to the motor. There should be about a .035" clearance between the gear of the starter and bottom of the teeth on the flywheel. You can also run a little smaller cable to this starter because of the lower ampage draw. The OEM ones pull about 120-220 amps depending on the motor size and compression. Mini's pull about 90 to 110 amps. They are strong enought to drive a car on a trailer without running the motor. Make sure you have all 3 bolts torqued to spec and add a touch or BLUE locktite so they don't come loose. It's a pain to get to the one between the block and starter.
Install the starter on the motor before dropping in the car. Have the cable also on too. It's alot easier than fighting the headers, and starter on your back. You will have to check ground clearance with the lakewood after everything is installed. Make sure your Body weight is in the car and someone else too if you have a co driver. This is IMPORTANT, Oil pans have been cracked from this not being checked.

If you are on flat smooth roads, you should be OK if not, the bottom of the flange of the bellhousing might hit some pothole covers, been there done that.

It bent the bottom.
As far as Patrickt he is off his meds again, he's spending way too much time in the closed garage, waxing and smelling the new paint from his fender bender last year.

Has anyone call the doctor YET!!!!

Rick L.

patrickt · #12 (**permalink**) 05-08-2009, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

As far as Patrickt he is off his meds again, he's spending way too much time in the closed garage, waxing and smelling the new paint from his fender bender last year.

.

I do find the aroma provides an eerily calming effect on my nerves. But for my breathing deeply from under the car last evening, I most assuredly would have chimed in on the CSX 4000 Series Talk thread....