accusump

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

... I feel comfortable that my engine will do fine without the pre-oiler. In my head, the pre-oiler increases the chance for leaks and I hate leaks.

Rick L.'s just a little funny on pre-oilers. If I thought it was necessary, I'd have one too... and I don't. Except for the "big sit" over the winter, my FE usually gets run at least every two or three weeks at most. I think any decent "clinging" oil (Brad Penn, for instance) will do us just fine -- and I do the same "crank if for ten seconds or so with the ignition disabled" trick after the long winter's nap. If I only get to do that a couple of dozen times then any rebuild will be my kids' problem.

[RodKnock]

Although I'm sure I'll never do it, since we're really talking complexity, I've always wanted to dry sump, like #3170 and 4pipes here locally. There's something purposeful and WOW (to me) about seeing that oil filler cap on the right front fender. If you're truly serious about the matter, then that's the way to go, at least for me.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

There's something purposeful and WOW (to me) about seeing that oil filler cap on the right front fender.

Then just put an oil filler cap on the right front fender -- you could do that in an afternoon.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Then just put an oil filler cap on the right front fender -- you could do that in an afternoon.

I'm not really a "replica" or "fake" kinda guy.

[undy]

The Accusump has saved many a wet sump sportin' trackee. I have one for pre-lube duties. The nature of the car typically lends it to infrequent starts. I want my crank and rods "floating' when I hit the starter. When I turn the key there's been about 30 lbs of oil pressure for about 5 seconds. Rick's right when it comes to the majority of crank bearing wear (catastrophic failures excluded). I'm with Kev in as much as this is the most expensive engine I've had. I just want to protect my investment, a little better.

Dave

[RICK LAKE]

jwd Jim We have tricks for just about any motor I can think of except for the 409, 348, 260, 290, 343, 340 buick, and a couple of other motors plus flatheads. I did think long and hard about putting a GM motor in the cobra, there where no stock looking blocks like the 427 ZL1 motor with a 490 lb weight and this time. The shelby block came along at 120 lbs and the rest was history with building this motor. It's simple, IMO the SBC and BBC have alot better oiling system than the FE block. The sideoiler is better than the center or top oiler. Your rod bearings in a SBC are as wide or a little wider than a FE rod bearing. They also carry about 200 grams less. The stroker 482 kit I have in the motor with BBC rods is the same weight or a little lighter than my 428 crank and rods with a 4.25 against a 3.98 stroke of the crank. I have spent the better part of 12 years talking at any one with FE motor building background. I have gotten some good info and some real bad info. I pass along the good info and what I think will help any person on this forum with extending the life of an FE motor. You are right about different animals, FE is not like any GM motor ever producted. There are alot of tricks for the BBC and SBC and now the LS1,2,6,and soon to be 9 motor. Piston sprayers, just like a diesel in the 9 motor and a bigger oilpump and better system than ever. We are still working with 40+ year old stuff. I wish a FE motor was 5.0" on bore centers for alot better heads than what we run today. As you said this is just my opinion and what has and hasn't worked for me. I am not a pro builder or machinist, just a student. Rick Lake