accusump

[ng8264723]

With the price of our motors I was wondering if anyone is running an accusump in a Kirkham? If so where did you mount it? Lastly, any pics and methods of installation?

[wizard man]

i havev one on mine if i can figure out how to upload i will send to you

[ng8264723]

You could email me some chrisheinis@verizon.net. Also tell me how you have it set up
thanks
chris

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ng8264723

With the price of our motors I was wondering if anyone is running an accusump in a Kirkham? If so where did you mount it? Lastly, any pics and methods of installation?

I mounted mine to the right hand square tube that is located just above the foot box, I used large diameter stainless hose clamps (4) and silicone pads to insulate it, I fed it to the engine through the rear oil feed on the back of the block so it would push oil back toward the pump inlet. I am sorry I don't have any pictures of the installation. PS I lost an engine when I ran out of oil on a long sweeping corner with my Aviad trap door pan and the accusump depleted its supply too. I have since gone dry sump.

[ng8264723]

Cobra 3170 Do you want to sell your old system?
Chris

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ng8264723

Cobra 3170 Do you want to sell your old system?
Chris

Sorry, I sold it about two months ago on EBAY

[big-boss]

NO Accusump for me too much weight. My 427 S/O is really nothing more than a Ford Dump truck motor anyway. I have a friend that has a 427 S/O w/ MR heads mounted on a windmachine. (yes, I will get it when he dies) He got it from a drag racer at Fomoso dragstrip in the early 70"s for 100 bucks. The 390 he had blew up. It pulls a 12 foot prop at 3500RPM for about 150 to 200 hours a year. It has an electric temp controled startup-

[Ibr8k4vetts]

I have one and love it...but it not on a Kirkham

[RICK LAKE]

ng8264723 Chris you are working come tuff hours. As far as mounting the accusump you can mount it just about any place. Mine is mounted to the outer frame rail on the R/S of the car. It has electric soleniod to turn on and off in the car. If you run it under the car body, add shields to protect it from road debries. A small stone can dent the case of the tube and it will not work. Some guys mount them on there cross member in front of the motor. This makes for a short run of line to connect. 28 pounds is not alot of extra weight to carry unless you are Nascar or 1/4 racer. Adding the weight makes it a little easier to balance the car in all for corners. The guys that race on the track put there cars on scales with there weight in the drivers seat. All this goes into helping a car handle better. Mount the tank where ever you have room and can get to or work on if needed. I have a gauge on mine and you want to be able to read it. Some guys run them from inside the cars with just a manual valve for on and off, on the passenger floor. I think you can mount it in any postion if needed. I would check with accusump before doing this to be sure. Rick L Hey Chris, get off the midnight shift and get a little sun

[FUNFER2]

If one does not race, how important or not, is a pump for a driver that the car may sit for several days without running ? At start up, my pressure takes a few cranks before it reaches 40 lbs. Usually during this process, it also takes several cranks for the fuel to reach the carb. anyway. So, does a engine need a pump in my application, or is one just a waste of money for something cool to have ? I realize people that have one will say they need and love it but, lets be straight forward.

[jwd]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

If one does not race, how important or not, is a pump for a driver that the car may sit for several days without running ? At start up, my pressure takes a few cranks before it reaches 40 lbs. Usually during this process, it also takes several cranks for the fuel to reach the carb. anyway. So, does a engine need a pump in my application, or is one just a waste of money for something cool to have ? I realize people that have one will say they need and love it but, lets be straight forward.

Unless you race, it's a waste of money and even then I question the need for one. As far as "dry starting", ever tear apart a motor that has sat for a year or so? They still have a nice coat of oil on everything. Your engine is typical and I wouldn't worry. Unless you want one just to say you have one, save your money.

Jim

[RICK LAKE]

FUNFER2 Kevin you didn't answer the phone the other night, you asked 2 questions, You owe me a quarter. The bottom line is this, "IMO" I would have one on everycar made. The down side would be motors running 200-400 thousand miles on the orignial bearings and internal parts. Dry starting ANY motor is where 70-80% of bearing wear happens. MOst of the oil falls off the bearings and returns to the oil pan. If you run a clinging oil like I do in my trucks, there is less of a dry startup and seam to have quicker oil pressure in the motor. The race motor in my cobra is now at $17,600 dollars to replace. I don't have that kind of money at this time. My other motor is still in rappings waiting to be built. I have raced for 11 years, the accusump has saved my motor twice. This is from roadracing and autocross. The car gets 98% of the time on the track. For a street car, you could get away without it. Most of these motors only go 20-60K miles before a rebuild. I have gone about 400 hours of abuse on the 452 motor, the new motor is in the 80 hour range. The 452 bottom end was perfect before the change to a bigger stoker kit. The orignial coating was still on the rod bearings in some places, same with mains 2 and 4. I also ran high oil pressure in this motor. 35-40 at idle 75-80 at track speed. When you have spent this much money, what is another $400.00 dollars for insurance??
Jerry Clayton doesn't believe in them and that is OK with ME. How ever he may have alot more money than me and spare parts. I use the accusump for autocross and roadracing to help keep the oil pressure stable in high "G" turns. Jerry may have had a problem with his setup, I don't know, he may run a GM motor in his car, it say that on his info, again I don't know. Better oiling system in an LS1 motor also. FE imo need alot of help.
This is what has worked for me over the last 11 years I am not changing a thing. I do a little more maintainance and checking the gears on the distributor and cams camshaft after every race. No failures at this time. The oil pump drive is alot a billet piece. A bigger pin is in the gear on the distributor also. Getting oil is key to extending the life of the gears. Also endplay on the cams shaft. If it's not broken, then leave if ALONE. I have been told for years about running high oil pressure with both FE rods and BBC rods, 135 psi cold and 1,200 rpms, they are just like a women, it takes a little time to warm them up before you----@#$%^**^%$ out of them. They seam to be happy with this treatment. I like and will stay with the preoiling system. I am adding one to my stroker motor(383) that is going in my tow rig. I see no down side to this either. I don't like it DRY, never did, never will. Rick L. Ps you now own me a Coke.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

If one does not race, how important or not, is a pump for a driver that the car may sit for several days without running ? At start up, my pressure takes a few cranks before it reaches 40 lbs. Usually during this process, it also takes several cranks for the fuel to reach the carb. anyway. So, does a engine need a pump in my application, or is one just a waste of money for something cool to have ? I realize people that have one will say they need and love it but, lets be straight forward.

Here's my $0.02. I'm not an engine builder like many here on CC, but I have basically the same reasoning as you. My engine takes a few cranks before it starts, it gets oil pressure before ignition and then after it starts I bring the idle immediately up to 1,500 rpm +/- and warm up the car for a couple of minutes. I will never say never, but I just think the pre-oiler adds one more complexity, where one isn't needed.

[RodKnock]

Although I'm sure I'll never do it, since we're really talking complexity, I've always wanted to dry sump, like #3170 and 4pipes here locally. There's something purposeful and WOW (to me) about seeing that oil filler cap on the right front fender. If you're truly serious about the matter, then that's the way to go, at least for me.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

There's something purposeful and WOW (to me) about seeing that oil filler cap on the right front fender.

Then just put an oil filler cap on the right front fender -- you could do that in an afternoon.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Then just put an oil filler cap on the right front fender -- you could do that in an afternoon.

I'm not really a "replica" or "fake" kinda guy.

[undy]

The Accusump has saved many a wet sump sportin' trackee. I have one for pre-lube duties. The nature of the car typically lends it to infrequent starts. I want my crank and rods "floating' when I hit the starter. When I turn the key there's been about 30 lbs of oil pressure for about 5 seconds. Rick's right when it comes to the majority of crank bearing wear (catastrophic failures excluded). I'm with Kev in as much as this is the most expensive engine I've had. I just want to protect my investment, a little better.

Dave

[RICK LAKE]

jwd Jim We have tricks for just about any motor I can think of except for the 409, 348, 260, 290, 343, 340 buick, and a couple of other motors plus flatheads. I did think long and hard about putting a GM motor in the cobra, there where no stock looking blocks like the 427 ZL1 motor with a 490 lb weight and this time. The shelby block came along at 120 lbs and the rest was history with building this motor. It's simple, IMO the SBC and BBC have alot better oiling system than the FE block. The sideoiler is better than the center or top oiler. Your rod bearings in a SBC are as wide or a little wider than a FE rod bearing. They also carry about 200 grams less. The stroker 482 kit I have in the motor with BBC rods is the same weight or a little lighter than my 428 crank and rods with a 4.25 against a 3.98 stroke of the crank. I have spent the better part of 12 years talking at any one with FE motor building background. I have gotten some good info and some real bad info. I pass along the good info and what I think will help any person on this forum with extending the life of an FE motor. You are right about different animals, FE is not like any GM motor ever producted. There are alot of tricks for the BBC and SBC and now the LS1,2,6,and soon to be 9 motor. Piston sprayers, just like a diesel in the 9 motor and a bigger oilpump and better system than ever. We are still working with 40+ year old stuff. I wish a FE motor was 5.0" on bore centers for alot better heads than what we run today. As you said this is just my opinion and what has and hasn't worked for me. I am not a pro builder or machinist, just a student. Rick Lake