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valve adjust
Jamo,,Morgan,, somebody,, how do you adjust hyd. valves With adjustable roller rocker arms?? I've tried several adjustments but can't get them right. Shelby 482 with all shelby stuff......Thanks Ron
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It's the same as any other hydraulic cam. Loosen the adjuster and then the goal is to get it at 0 lash. You can twist the pushrod between your fingers as you tighten the adjuster. You don't want to depress the plunger in the lifter at this point, so just heighten your senses and pick up the point where there is no lash at all. Some people think it's the point where the pushrod doesn't spin, but that's not necessarily the case. It's the point where there is no axial movement in the pushrod. You may feel a slight drag when you get there...just pay attention. I don't know what brand lifters you're running, but Comp lifters call for 3/4" turn past 0. So when you get to zero lash, just crank it another 3/4 turn and lock it down.
Now, before you get to that point, keep this in mind: Set the intake valves when the exhaust valve is opening. Set the exhaust valve when the intake valve is starting to close. So just start on one side, have someone bump it over with the starter (take the coil wire off) and just go through each side. |
That's about as good a description as I've seen...hard to detail the "feel" of zero lash. Contact, but not pushing the lifter.
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Real Cobra motors have SOLIDS:MECOOL:
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Real Cobra motors have SOLIDS:MECOOL:
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Worth repeating!:) |
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Real Cobra motors have solid ROLLERS.... |
The most accurate way that I have foundis like this..
Turn the motor so that a valve...start at one side at the front and go back.......is fully open.ie pushed fully down. Make a mark on the front pulleyand turn the motor exactlyonce around so the mark is back where you made it. The cam lobe will now be exactly 180 degrees or on the bottom of the lobe. This is the point at which you should set the rockers. Get the zero lash point and then turn another 1/2 to 3/4 turns. If you have a solid cam this is the best method as well. This is the point at which to set the valve lash and you will have the cam at exactly the right place. Good Luck, John |
Do any of us have "Real Cobras"? Evan? :LOL:
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EDIT -- But if somebody can't tell the difference between a big block and small block when they're looking right at it then it probably doesn't matter anyway. |
Having had a chance to drive an original in the mid 70's, I knew that my SPF needed to be powered as the original. I have an original stroke 1966 428 FE in my cobra. There is a seat of the pants feeling that a true big block imparts that a small block stroker can't duplicate. Not that the 351 based cars are not as much of cobra, just different. I also have a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, small block Ford powered. Very fast and a huge grin to drive, but does not have the tone or feel of a big block. Crane had a good fool proof method of hydraulic lifter adjustment on their web sight, now gone. This sight offers a similar method for adjustment. http://www.scorpionperformance.com/V...MadeSimple.pdf
The key is to be sure the valve you are adjusting is well off the lobe. Rick |
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