valve adjust

RON N BKFLD · #1 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 05:38 PM

Jamo,,Morgan,, somebody,, how do you adjust hyd. valves With adjustable roller rocker arms?? I've tried several adjustments but can't get them right. Shelby 482 with all shelby stuff......Thanks Ron

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:38 PM

It's the same as any other hydraulic cam. Loosen the adjuster and then the goal is to get it at 0 lash. You can twist the pushrod between your fingers as you tighten the adjuster. You don't want to depress the plunger in the lifter at this point, so just heighten your senses and pick up the point where there is no lash at all. Some people think it's the point where the pushrod doesn't spin, but that's not necessarily the case. It's the point where there is no axial movement in the pushrod. You may feel a slight drag when you get there...just pay attention. I don't know what brand lifters you're running, but Comp lifters call for 3/4" turn past 0. So when you get to zero lash, just crank it another 3/4 turn and lock it down.

Now, before you get to that point, keep this in mind:

Set the intake valves when the exhaust valve is opening.

Set the exhaust valve when the intake valve is starting to close.

So just start on one side, have someone bump it over with the starter (take the coil wire off) and just go through each side.

Jamo · #3 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 11:38 PM

That's about as good a description as I've seen...hard to detail the "feel" of zero lash. Contact, but not pushing the lifter.

Rick Parker · #4 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 11:46 PM

Real Cobra motors have SOLIDS

Rick Parker · #5 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 11:53 PM

Real Cobra motors have SOLIDS

ERA Chas · #6 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Real Cobra motors have SOLIDS

Worth repeating!

patrickt · #7 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Worth repeating!

My Ersons don't even change their lash... they're effectively hydraulic when it comes to maintenance.

blykins · #8 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Worth repeating!

And adding to....

Real Cobra motors have solid ROLLERS....

CHANMADD · #9 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 10:09 AM

The most accurate way that I have foundis like this..
Turn the motor so that a valve...start at one side at the front and go back.......is fully open.ie pushed fully down. Make a mark on the front pulleyand turn the motor exactlyonce around so the mark is back where you made it. The cam lobe will now be exactly 180 degrees or on the bottom of the lobe. This is the point at which you should set the rockers. Get the zero lash point and then turn another 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
If you have a solid cam this is the best method as well. This is the point at which to set the valve lash and you will have the cam at exactly the right place.
Good Luck,
John

RodKnock · #10 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 11:45 AM

Do any of us have "Real Cobras"? Evan?

patrickt · #11 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Do any of us have "Real Cobras"? Evan?

Motors. For all practical purposes, anyone who has an FE 427 or 428 pretty much has a "real Cobra motor." Even though the only non-aftermarket-piece of metal on my engine is the block itself.

RodKnock · #12 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Motors. For all practical purposes, anyone who has an FE 427 or 428 pretty much has a "real Cobra motor." Even though the only non-aftermarket-piece of metal on my engine is the block itself.

So, your saying that the guys running Windsor-based engines do not have "Real Cobra Motors" in their "Real Cobras"?

patrickt · #13 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

So, your saying that the guys running Windsor-based engines do not have "Real Cobra Motors" in their "Real Cobras"?

Putting aside the 289 cars for the moment, anyone who takes a small block and bores/strokes it out to around 427 and calls it a "real Cobra motor" is deluding themselves. Sure you can get a bunch of power out of them, but it just ain't the same thing as a 427/428. And heaven forbid if some innocent bystander asks "Wow, it really has a 427 in it?" and the Windsor owner answers back "Yes, it sure does. That's a 427 alright. Yessirreeee." That's about as deceptive as a Bernie Madoff/Mark Sanford sandwich.

EDIT -- But if somebody can't tell the difference between a big block and small block when they're looking right at it then it probably doesn't matter anyway.

r67cat · #14 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 05:50 PM

Having had a chance to drive an original in the mid 70's, I knew that my SPF needed to be powered as the original. I have an original stroke 1966 428 FE in my cobra. There is a seat of the pants feeling that a true big block imparts that a small block stroker can't duplicate. Not that the 351 based cars are not as much of cobra, just different. I also have a 1967 Sunbeam Tiger, small block Ford powered. Very fast and a huge grin to drive, but does not have the tone or feel of a big block. Crane had a good fool proof method of hydraulic lifter adjustment on their web sight, now gone. This sight offers a similar method for adjustment. http://www.scorpionperformance.com/V...MadeSimple.pdf
The key is to be sure the valve you are adjusting is well off the lobe. Rick