What are people using for exhaust bolts? I like the ss studs.......

ng8264723 · #1 (**permalink**) 07-26-2009, 07:22 PM

But since I haven't installed my motor I'm not sure if they will fit. I have used them in other cars and the ARP ss studs are great if you have enough room for them. Anyway, any thoughts? I recently got my billet overflow tank. What a nice product!

Rick Parker · #2 (**permalink**) 07-26-2009, 10:05 PM

I use the ARP stainless 12 PT bolts with drilled heads and safety wire them. It's a little extra effort but I haven't had any header gasket issues or loose bolts.
If I had the room for easy removal I too would use their Stainless studs but with a mechanical locking Jet nut in lieu of a split lock washer, I've seen the exhaust heat take the temper out of split washers and they end up flat and loose the ability to keep a nut on tight.

Xavier · #3 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 12:30 AM

ARP Stainless 12pt have worked the best for me, the heads are small enough to reach in there and re-tighten when necessary.

The high-heat flattens any SS washer.

ng8264723 · #4 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 05:12 AM

The arp ss studs do not use a split washer. They use a flat washer and they do not loosen.

trularin · #5 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 05:36 AM

Each hole has a story. And, each bolt, stud or cap screw has an equally interesting tale.

big-boss · #6 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 08:28 AM

Use bolts-Stay away from the studs. I just replaced No. 5 gasket sunday. It took 5min. I also use the the Mr. Gasket gaskets but cut them into individual ones. That is the first one I ever had to redo. I do not know why it went out. Good luck.

Tom Wells · #7 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 01:25 PM

ng8264723,

Not sure I'd use SS in aluminum heads. There's this galvanic corrosion that occurs that make them less than wonderful to deal with long term....

After some learning experiences, I now use the Stage 8 Locking Fasteners. They're a bit of a pain to install the first time, but have cured the leaking header backfire blues once and for all.

Whatever you do, don't even think about using the split-lock bolts (the ones with the tiny allen screw in the center to lock them); they ate the threads in my aluminum heads! I did notice they looked like taps anyway... Then to add insult, one of the little allen screws fell out after about a month! 'nuf said.

Try the Stage 8s, you may like them.

Tom

MFE III · #8 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 03:39 PM

I used SS studs on my aluminum AFR heads (1) so I wouldn't have the wear and tear on the threads from taking my headers on and off, and (2) to eliminate the chance of cross-threading the heads. Due to a couple of tight radius bends in my headers coming out of the flange, I had to shorten a couple of the studs, but very pleased with the setup.
Matt

Ronbo · #9 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 05:08 PM

Stage 8, unless your a glutton for punishment and like safety wiring (or blown gaskets).

Anti-sieze on anything going into aluminum (unless they're nickel plated bolts).

Jim Vander Wal · #10 (**permalink**) 07-27-2009, 06:30 PM

I user 3/8-16 black oxide carbon steel allen set screws at 1 1/4" long with AN series washers (not lock washers) and stainless nuts. All from McMaster-Carr www.mcmaster.com for about $27 and I then have 84 extra nuts and washers. I also use the 3" bolt spacing which allows a lot of room around the tube. This may not work if you use the 2" spacing.

I put anti-seize on the set screws and back them off about 1/8 turn from bottom. I also run copper header gaskets that don't compress and blow out.

Once tightened after the 2nd or 3rd heat cycle they stay tight.

Jim