Body Attachment

Cobra14 · #1 (**permalink**) 03-14-2004, 01:43 PM

Need some advice. I have a 03 LS 427. The body is attached directly to the metal frame. Seems like there should be something between them to buffer the impact of bumps and such. I am concerned with the fiberglass cracking around the bolts holding the body to the frame. Are they designed like this or did someone forget to put a rubber spacer in.

Thanks
Cobra 14

S420merc · #2 (**permalink**) 12-10-2006, 01:52 PM

I am looking at the LoneStar Kit and would love to know this too

Tim Brewer · #3 (**permalink**) 12-10-2006, 03:33 PM

Lonestars should have a 2" wide piece of foam rubber stuck all the way around the frame everywhere the body touches it. Once the body is attached, you can't see the foam rubber anywhere. The only way to see the rubber, would be to remove the body. Are you really sure it's not there?

Rubberhead · #4 (**permalink**) 12-13-2006, 12:06 PM

tell me if your happy with your lonestar kit ----thinking of purchasing one also--like the West Coast kit also -any feedback would be helpful

RogerM · #5 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 10:23 AM

I love my Lonestar. It is a complete built kit that uses mostly the best aftermarket parts. The body is made of superstrong boat-grade vinylester and the frame is very well designed a looks great when ordered already powdercoated. But, the thing that atracts most people to it is the extra 4 inches of length that helps the cockpit fit
6'+ drivers. It also moves the headers away from the footbox so that tou don't get hot feet.

For more info and feedback about Lonestars, go to www.lonestarclassics.com and check out their forum. It is a very active forum and I check it out every couple days.

jwoodard · #6 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 10:57 AM

When I built my Lonestar I used foam insulating tape between the body and the frame. Here's a link to a photo:

http://home.flash.net/~jwoodard/Image231.jpg

FUNFER2 · #7 (**permalink**) 12-19-2006, 11:03 AM

I agree, the Lone Star is a very nice car. The body, interior and frame are great. The only areas I would like to see changed is the front "A" arms to Mustang's or like the "Turn Ten Racing" set up where their more adjustable that using washers. My coil over springs are too stiff and I plan on changing them this winter. Other than these minor issues, I would certainly buy again.

RogerM · #8 (**permalink**) 12-20-2006, 08:32 AM

For Funfer2:

There is a long discusion about the upper control arms in Lonestar's forum (http://www.lonestarclassics.com/foru...pic.php?t=177).

The best soultion seems to be the adjustable control arms from SPS Performance available through Summit (SPS-92142). All you need to do is drill two new mounting holes below that old ones and cut a more of the wheel well glass. I plan to purchase a set soon.

FUNFER2 · #9 (**permalink**) 12-20-2006, 10:11 AM

Roger- I'll read it but, cut more of the wheel well glass ? Can you explain what that means & why please.
Thank you much,

RogerM · #10 (**permalink**) 12-21-2006, 09:58 AM

Funfer2-

The new adjustable a-arms mount about 1 inch below the old ones on the same flange. So, you just have to drill two new mounting holes about 1 inch below the old a-arm mounting holes.

To do that you will probably have to cut a little bit of the glass from the "t" shaped slot that you originally cut for the shock towers and a-arm mounts. Depending how you originally cut the slot you might not have much to cut at all and might just be able to grind or heavy sand the slot bigger.

FUNFER2 · #11 (**permalink**) 12-21-2006, 01:50 PM

Great, thank you.

trularin · #12 (**permalink**) 12-21-2006, 03:11 PM

I like my car. I used the foam rubber on all of the frame rails as the body was put on. It is sticky on one side and sort of glues down.

Turn the body like perpendicular to the front and start lowering the back, anything that is in the way should be investigated.

I had one problem, the transtunnel was shifted about 1/8 of an inch. Fixed that and the car is sound.

byron w · #13 (**permalink**) 12-21-2006, 03:21 PM

Cobra14,
I used SEMI trailer mud flaps, cut to lenght and width. They are about 3/16" thick, uv and weather resistance. They should last forever and are very rasonable to purchase. I held them in place with black RTV.

Merry Christmas, Byron

GlynMeek · #14 (**permalink**) 03-10-2007, 10:15 PM

I bought a whole new set of HARD rubber for the 'body-to-frame' insuloation. The stuff supplied by LS is good, but I wanted something even more resilient. 1/4" thick, 2" wide...works GREAT...not a SOUND, and I also went with the new upper control arms from Sunnit...easy to fit and very adjustable