need good source for brake disc r & r

[vector1]

need somebody in kc area who can either turn brake rotors or blanchard grind them. they are on aluminum hats which could be removed, and the front hub could be used to turn them also, but would prefer blanchard grinding if i can find someone to do them.

anybody?

[D-CEL]

Vector1,

We used to Blanchard grinding everything at Wilwood, but we found that even though the faces were parallel, we couldn’t guarantee they would be perpendicular to the rotational axis of the hat. The result was “run-out” that could be felt in the pedal.
We started turning both faces in a single setup and could hold the total run-out to less .002.
Just offering a little insight

Good Luck

Jason

[vector1]

thanks d-cel

i wondered how that would work. so you're saying to turn them on a disc brake lathe?

[D-CEL]

LOL, ya know, its been 25 years since i used a brake lathe in High School auto shop!
If youre turning a rotor that needs a hat, it needs to be installed on the hat then turned. With regards to Wilwood, the lug and rotor patterns are based on the center hole. So you can use that to establish the axis

My choice would be a big lathe with 4 jaw chuck. indicate the center hole and the rotor mount face for run out. Then install the rotors and turn both faces without removing it. That will produce a great rotor.

How bad are the rotors?
What makes you want to turn them?

[vector1]

thanks d-cel

there is a very bad annoying pedal pulsation, either slam on the brakes or don't touch them.

near as i could tell one disc was .005 out and another close to that or in the same neighborhood.

i purchased the car and it hasn't been used much lately, so i thought it might work itself out but don't think that is going to happen.

wilwood doesn't make the specific disc anymore or caliper for the front.

let me ask you a question while i have your knowledge at hand....

the front disc is a 12.19 x 1.38 with matching superlite II caliper on the front, wilwood doesn't make these anymore. if i switch to a 12.19 x 1.25 what would have to be done in regards to offsetting the disc to center in the caliper or should spacers be used behind the pads?

so from your instructions, find a machine shop with the 4 jaw chuck lathe, leave the hat on and indicate from the center hole and rotor mount face and turn both sides.

thanks for the info.

[vector1]

guy in lawrence said he could do it on their flywheel machine indexed off the hat. how does this sound?

[D-CEL]

Typically, we would add or remove spacers to the caliper mounting lugs/bolts to center it over the rotor. It depends on how the calipers are mounted.

I would check the rotor mounting face with the hat on the spindle first, make sure you’re fixing the right thing. Some of that old stuff was machined….not as good as it should have been.. I would hate to see you waste effort and yield little or nothing.
I have pretty good connections at Wilwood. What part numbers do the say they don’t have? Maybe I can offer some options.
The pictures in your gallery are pretty impressive. Your engine is quite a piece of work.
Did you build it? I’m collecting parts for a similarly scary 565ci aluminum big block.

Jason

[D-CEL]

It sounds good... so long as he indicates the actual spindle mounting face against the wheel mounting face and cut both faces in that set up.
remember, any run-out in the hat will be machined into the rotor.

Jason

[vector1]

thanks for the info jason

i understand mounting the calipers, usually can center over the hubs with pedal pressure and use shims at the mounting holes.

i'm trying to follow you when you say spindle do you mean hub? check the rotor mounting face with the hat on the hub first, which would be on the spindle?

i checked the runout on the front with the wheels mounted, just jacked it up. i guess i should check the parts seperately is what you are saying? like the hub mounting face.

the part numbers are 160-3874, 160-3875. i inquired via email and got the no go, i've searched the net and can't find them either. i noticed they do not list the 1.38 calipers for them anymore.

thanks for the compliments on the engine. prob took 6 months to build by the time all the parts were accumulated, machine work corrected, information gathered, etc.

this one is 406ci, it would be pretty scary to have 565ci under the foot! i'm sure you'll enjoy yours when it is finished.

mark

[vector1]

jason

i investigated a little better today and found the front discs were fine, the rears are out. i can order the rears easy enough.

if you do come across a set of the above numbered discs though i would buy them.

thanks.

[D-CEL]

Sorry, Yes the word is hub, lol
I had a "hub" that was machined out of a factory rotor/hub assembly. I was chasing a flutter in the pedal for a while and confused why I couldn’t fix it. When I checked the hub face it had .015 run out. Replaced the hubs with a Wilwood part and it was all fixed.

The only guys that run the 1.38 and larger rotors are the stock cars and other heavy applications. There are a few calipers in that category, Prolite, Integra, GNIII, TC6R.

What does your car weigh?
Your 160-3874/75’s are 14.8 lbs each!! That’s a lot of rotating mass.
If you went to a 1.25 x 12.19 (160-4576/77) they are only 10.7 lbs each., you would drop 8lbs of RM.
Or you could maybe go bigger at the same weight?
I was able to put 12.720x1.25 with SL6Rs inside my 15” Trigos

What size wheel do you run?

[vector1]

the wheels are 17" x wide.

all the stuff on this car is made for stout.

maybe sometime i will change to a lighter rotor, but as long as these are working i will prob stay with them unless somebody comes up with some carbon stuff and wants me to check it out.

i think the front brakes have air in the line from what i can tell, i can pump up the brakes and the shimy is not as bad, prob the reason for the rears overheating and warping. they are about 7-8 thou out each.

i would hit the brakes and come off them and then when i hit them again they were not as bad and almost smooth, kinda wierd and hadn't experienced it before. only thing i can tell is fronts have air in the line but i'll check everything on the rear to make sure.

you think the rotors are heavy the tires are about 47 lbs. (rear). i'd like to change them and the rotors out. i remember weighing wide 5 rims w/tires and they weighed right at 20 lbs.

[vector1]

replaced the rear rotors and no more shudder. anybody need a pair of warped brake rotors?