Removing header Bolts....help! - Page 2

FOMOCONUT · #21 (**permalink**) 09-23-2010, 05:16 PM

I used a stainless set I got from Jegs, 3/8 X 1 in. with a 5/16 hex head. Put them with a 1/4 in.drive socket and a box wrench . SPF #2773 Jerry

wanab5150 · #22 (**permalink**) 10-09-2010, 11:08 PM

Mickmate and Madmaxx...Winner, winner, winner....

The crows foot broke them loose instantly and for the two weeks I waited for it to be delivered I tried a few other suggestions but all failed.

I ordered a Snap on...they sent an "out of stock" email.
I ordered a Craftsman and it also came back "out of stock" but for $52 I could buy a whole set. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN...

I went down to our trusty Harbor Freight and bought a full set for $9.00. The crows foot was a life saver and made both loosening and tightening a snap.

Thanks to all for your help. tom

mickmate · #23 (**permalink**) 10-10-2010, 05:25 AM

Just one of those little special wrenches that saves your butt. It's nice that someone else made for it for us so we didn't have to. Glad that worked out.

wanab5150 · #24 (**permalink**) 10-18-2010, 11:36 AM

After I did the header bolts I went over the engine and chassis in search of loose bolts and nuts. I have tightened the header to muffler flange bolts numerous times assuming they kept coming loose.

I replaced the grade 2 bolts (which were used by the installer) with grade 8 bolts after removing them and finding they were stretched and bent from the constant tightening over the last 3 years.

There's a lot of vibration and movement at that connection so we'll see if the higher grade hardware will do the trick. I was luck they never blew the gaskets out.