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Old 09-21-2010, 12:06 PM
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Default Removing header Bolts....help!

I replaced a header gasket on one side of my Roush 427. It was relatively easy on the passenger side, but I can only get one bolt loose on the drivers side. The main issue is that the bolts virtually touch the header pipes on both sides. There's no room for a box end, and an open end just tweaks the bolt.

Their is plenty of room from the top but I'm afraid I'm going to screw up the head of the bolts if I keep going the direction I'm going now.

Any tricks would be helpful.....Here's a photo of how close the bolts are to the header pipe. This is the inside, but you get the picture. I'll take another photo from the outside and post it when I get home.

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Last edited by wanab5150; 09-21-2010 at 12:10 PM..
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:18 PM
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I have seen some people put a small dimple in the pipe where the head of the bolt makes contact with the pipe that way you can get a wrench on it.....or you can change to an allen head bolt....but as far as takeing them off.....someone got them on there so you should be able to get them off.....grind the wrench down a little on the ends so it dosent stick so far past the head of the bolt and try that ( use an old wrench)
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:20 PM
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I would definately replace them with allen head bolts once you get them out.


http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/916/10002/-1


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Old 09-21-2010, 01:28 PM
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Allen head bolts is a good idea. If the heads are aluminum coat the threads with Anti-sieze before reinstalling the bolts.
I have cut off the end of a box wrench before so that it grabs on as many bolt head points as possible. Heating up the bolts with a small torch can help loosen them. Have fun. John
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Old 09-21-2010, 01:51 PM
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Stage 8 Header Bolt Kit....

http://www.stage8.com/ford.html
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Old 09-21-2010, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John McMahon View Post
Stage 8 Header Bolt Kit....

http://www.stage8.com/ford.html
These are the ones I've been using for years, by far the best you can buy....................

David
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Old 09-21-2010, 04:15 PM
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Try a crows foot to get it started out of there. They have rugged jaws and you can get some leverage with a ratchet. They only will do a small part of the turn but that's all you need to get goin.
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:41 PM
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Vice grips?
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:40 PM
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:02 PM
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I like to use ARP bols as they tend to have a smaller hex head. Stage 8's are great as well. As far as removal goes, do it cold, spray everything with a good penetrating oil the night before and the best open end I can recommend is the Snap On flank drive. They are quite expensive, so I bought just the the sizes that we tend to run into on the cars that we service. It may be worth the 20 bucks to not have to drill anything out.

Andrei
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Old 09-21-2010, 08:46 PM
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Real small set of vice grips
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:46 PM
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Thanks very much for the suggestions. I ground down a box end to fit and it simply broke the wrench because I had to grind off so much to fit.

I'll try the crows foot and if that doesn't work I'll try to chase down a Snap On truck.

Vice grips? I'll see... thanks for the ideas tom


These are the new ones I used on the passenger side. I had to grind down the tab to fit between the header pipe and the bolt , but they're on. http://www.stage8.com/ford.html
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Old 09-21-2010, 10:50 PM
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You could take a punch or a small chisel and loosen the bolt that way and then get a wrench on it ,or fingers ..you just have to break it loose and it will come...and then I would use an allen ..although I had to grind and Allen wrench down on the short side even then.....but it super easy now....but now it does'nt give any trouble anymore..
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Old 09-22-2010, 05:23 PM
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I would grind down an old or cheap 6 point socket.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:21 PM
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Her's a better photo showing that the points on the bolts are actually touching the pipe. The socket will work on a few but it's the one's down below the top of the pipe that are a problem.

I ordered a Snap-On crows foot for $29.00....Holy Crap! Still, any other suggestions are welcome.

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Old 09-22-2010, 10:35 PM
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Tom,

What size are bolts that you currently have? I think the original bolts on my headers were 7/16..don't even know how they tightened them in the first place. The new bolts have 3/8 heads. Much easier access.
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Last edited by Got the Bug; 09-22-2010 at 11:01 PM..
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:03 PM
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7/16....wouldn't be able to get a 3/8 in there.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:56 AM
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The crows foot will get it loose. Those are the cheapest POS bolts on the market, when you go back use what is suggested you will have no problem. If bored go to walmart and buy their cheapest box end wrenches, which are thin to start with and cut them as required to fit. Once you get it loose you should be able to back out with your fingers.

Sears sells crowfoots also if you want one today. Heck you can buy set from harbor freight for $10.00. You might run into a problem with the snap on, they are manufactured to a very tight tolerance and since some of the corners have been rounded it might not go on.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:54 AM
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I had the same problem... just wedge a flat screw driver between the bolt head and the header pipe and tap the screw driver down with a hammer. It should create just enough clearance to get the box end of your wrench on.
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:25 AM
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Yeah, I already ordered the Snap on crows foot. I checked the fit of multiple 7/16 wrenches on the heads and these are bottom of the barrel bolts I think.

I actually ordered an 11mm crows foot because the 11mm fit slightly tighter by just a few thousandths. Even when I ground down an 11 mm box end, it fit perfect, but I had to keep grinding until it was so thin it broke.

I did the screwdriver thing slightly and I might have to do it in the end as well. I want to try the crows foot fires then if all else fails I'll bend them a little more.

I think the guy used the $5.95 kit from China. That might be the reason the 11mm fits better.........he's out of business now!

Thanks all, tom
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