Superformance Adjustable Clutch Rod

[wanab5150]

I need an adjustable clutch rod for a Superformance. I just found (by a nasty oil leak and no clutch) that the guy that did my installation in Reno 3 years ago used a damn mild steel threaded rod you might find at Home Depot...and, used 2 3/4 inch nuts to space the master cylinder away from the bracket..AND, used 4 nuts as spacers on the steel rod to space where the rod goes through the fork....Christ!.

I can't believe that anyone would use a cheep a$$ threaded rod. Not only did it break...it was bent on the end that goes into the master cyl. It was covered by the boot so you couldn't see the whole rod except where went through the fork. I had to make an adjustment twice in 4000 miles and couldn't tell it was a crappy threaded rod until I removed it.

When I made the adjustment I made a spacer and removed all the nuts he had used as spacers but didn't realize what he had used as a clutch rod until I removed the entire master cyl. to see if the seal was damaged when the rod broke.

If you have a Superformance...and it was done in Reno, get it changed out. It just broke yesterday when I was getting ready to go for a drive. Thank God it broke in the garage before I left.

Anyone know what they are using for a clutch rod? I'm not sure where to get one that is the correct size for a Superformance?

Also...there is no return spring....is that unusual on a superformance? It hasn't been an issue, but I just realized it isn't there. Tom

[Mark IV]

This is an installer item, SPF does not supply the slave cylinder and rod. many use the cylinder for a Ford Probe. I have a part number somewhere. You can find the rod at NAPA, it will have a rounded end to sit in the cylinder piston and a threaded end.

The return spring is also an installer item, different guys use different springs but I do recommend a return spring. One of my customers has a "hardware store assortment" spring that attaches to the TO arm at the outer edge visa a hole and then anchors on the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder. You can use a pretty stiff spring as you cannot tell the difference on the pedal from a soft to very stiff.

You may need to remove the slave cylinder piston and cut down the internal spring to allow the piston to retract enough for complete disengagement.

[Calbullet]

Tom, I went to Emigh hardware and bought a grade 8 bolt and made one myself. Just measure the length and cut off the bolt head and round off in a grinder.

Mel

[Calbullet]

Tom, I also used an old rocker arm ball washer for the fork end, fits the recess in the fork arm perfect.

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by Calbullet

Tom, I went to Emigh hardware and bought a grade 8 bolt and made one myself. Just measure the length and cut off the bolt head and round off in a grinder.

Mel

That's exactly what I did too. Works great.

[Mac VABCH]

One last thing to check for is a pedal stop so you don't overstroke to Slave cylinder.

[decooney]

Originally Posted by jhv48

That's exactly what I did too. Works great.

Hahaha, me too. And we all probably thought we were clever with unique ideas as we were cutting, grinding, and shaping that grade-8 bolt ends and ball end to a perfect fit and function. Had mine so long, actually forgot I came up with the same thing, until I saw your posts.

[wanab5150]

Well, this is the kind of work the installer did in Reno when I bought the car in '07. He's closed up shop now.

The bracket is hogged out and he used the large nuts as spacers....what a mess. I'll have to find a new bracket or better yet try to find a chunk of aluminum and make my own. The Slave cyl. has to be spaced back as it is too close to the yoke....very odd.

The Slave cyl. has an internal spring that pushes the rod and intern allows the throwout bearing to rest on the clutch and spin all the time. In other posts about clutches on Cobra Club this seems common practice although it doesn't set well with me.

Why the slave has a spring in it is confusing. A return spring would have to be huge to overcome the slave spring. There's a place to add a pedal return spring under the dash but the pedal is free and adds no pressure to the slave???????

Maybe I can have someone fill the bracket with aluminum weld and re drill it. I am not sure exactly what I'm going to do right now ...I'm just pissed it was put together this way. Again...owners that had their engines installed in Reno, check yours also!

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by wanab5150

Well, this is the kind of work the installer did in Reno when I bought the car in '07. He's closed up shop now.

The bracket is hogged out and he used the large nuts as spacers....what a mess. I'll have to find a new bracket or better yet try to find a chunk of aluminum and make my own. The Slave cyl. has to be spaced back as it is too close to the yoke....very odd.

The Slave cyl. has an internal spring that pushes the rod and intern allows the throwout bearing to rest on the clutch and spin all the time. In other posts about clutches on Cobra Club this seems common practice although it doesn't set well with me.

Why the slave has a spring in it is confusing. A return spring would have to be huge to overcome the slave spring. There's a place to add a pedal return spring under the dash but the pedal is free and adds no pressure to the slave???????

Maybe I can have someone fill the bracket with aluminum weld and re drill it. I am not sure exactly what I'm going to do right now ...I'm just pissed it was put together this way. Again...owners that had their engines installed in Reno, check yours also!

email me, I have brackets in stock...if the dimensions are OK, I'll contribute one for just the cost of shipping. let me know the center-to-center meqasurement on the slave cylinder mounting holes.

Rick

[jhv48]

That's a pretty standard slave bracket for the SPF. If you can't get a replacement, take it to a machine shop and have them fab another one for you. Don't worry about the slave exerting pressure on the t/o bearing. They have been doing this for years with no ill effects. Also, don't bother with a return spring. Not needed. Use washers to position the bracket and slave the proper distance from the fork. Mine has about 4 heavy duty washers between the bracket and the bell housing. Doesn't really matter unless you push the bracket too far away from the shift fork so that the rod doesn't push it far enough.

[PANAVIA]

We fix things like that daily. -- I have a new design we will put up.

Working on providing fixes for items like this in our new online store.


Steve

[Mark IV]

These are the brackets I have in stock...

[wanab5150]

Jhv.....that's exactly what I ended up doing and it fits well. I am going to make some aluminum spacers and have them tacked on in place of the washers just for the hell of it.

Thanks Mark IV for the offer, but I'm just going to redo this one.

I tried a return spring and spent 2 hours making brackets for the spring to attach to. I used a spring that would return the piston all the way and relieve the pressure on the TO bearing. .... The clutch felt like crap and the lesson learned is that the spring on the inside of the slave is to take up the slack between the yoke and TO bearing and gives a shorter throw on the pedal and has a better feel.

There are a ton of threads on Cobra Club stating YOU MUST USE A SPRING. Then there are just as many saying you CAN"T USE A SPRING! In this case a spring made it worse. apparently this is why the slave is spring loaded...duh!

Thanks for all the help everyone. I will talk you all during the next crisis.

[maxum_101]

Originally Posted by PANAVIA

We fix things like that daily. -- I have a new design we will put up.

Working on providing fixes for items like this in our new online store.


Steve

do you have a picture of this new design?

[pooreds]

ABC supply on "R" st. in Sac has grade 8 all thread. I used it on my Willy's clutch linkage. I'll have to look at my Superformance and see whats up with it.

[wanab5150]

The "all thread grade 8" would be better than the grade 8 bolt because the length is critical because of the thread length for adjustment.

Mine is just right now, but if I have to adjust it again I will need a longer bolt as I am at the limit. Wish I knew about the all thread. Never heard of the grade 8 stuff.

[Calbullet]

Tom, I don't see where the adjustment would be different.. adjustment would be the same on a cut off bolt and all-thread.

[wanab5150]

The issue with a grade 8 bolt is that the thread length is very short. The un-threaded part of the shaft of the bolt has to be fairly precise, not like a threaded rod where you can adjust in and out as much as you want.

You could use 8 inches of threaded rod and just cut off the end when you were through. 6 of one, half dozen of the other....

[pooreds]

Originally Posted by wanab5150

The "all thread grade 8" would be better than the grade 8 bolt because the length is critical because of the thread length for adjustment.

Mine is just right now, but if I have to adjust it again I will need a longer bolt as I am at the limit. Wish I knew about the all thread. Never heard of the grade 8 stuff.

didn't see your post 'till last night, I originally used "regular" steel all thread, and it got wobbly stripped after awhile. my 2 cents!

[wanab5150]

That's what Steve used on our cars. Might want to change it out before you puke your slave 300 miles from home.