Oil Filter Issue

[Bx1]

I did my first oil change and found the oil filter on my Superformance was a Napa 1742 which was HUGE maybe contains 2 qts. of oil... it was so large I couldnt remove it, due to the frame rail below the filter, so I had to lossen the bolts that hold the 'SVT' remote oil filter fixture. My question is ... is it necessary to have such a large filter? I would prefer to use a Motocraft FL1A or its equivalent, but the remote filter fixture would need to be changed, which I would be MORE than willing to do, if such a smaller filter is appropriate. The NAPA filter does not contain a by-pass valve and I think the previous owner wanted a filter that had a very high flow rate (30GPM). Most other filters flow at 10GPM. I am requesting your opinions/feedback about the filters other Cobra owners use. Thanks...

[Bob In Ct]

Most of us are using FL1A (or equivalent). The guy you're using really doesn't need a by-pass since if flows so much oil. The WIX equivalent ( www.wixfilters.com) is 51742, 25 microns, 30 GPM, no by-pass.

Bob

[thudmaster]

Just go with the regular ford filter. It will work just fine.

[Jim Norris]

My engine builder recommended the FL1A. I use it exclusively.

[wtm442]

FL1A is fine. Running any oil filter WITHOUT a bypass is risky business IMHO.

[Ron61]

When I had my Cobra I used the WIX, Ford FL1A, and a Napa Racing Filter and I could never tell any difference in any of them. Oil stayed clean, pressure was good and they all flow enough.

Ron

[Bx1]

Thanks for the info... I will be changing the filter bracket to accept a 'normal' size filter this week! My Superformance is an older model and I think the newer models have a smaller filters... in any event, regular oil changes will be much easier in the future...

[jperickson2001]

I used to personally know a rep for Fram oil filters years ago and he always said to use Fram because they filtered a finer micron of debre in the oil. If you look at filter tests on the web, Fram is usually the worst rated filter you can buy. So, get the facts. You can go to google and look for oil filter test or consumer reports and find what oil filter is the best by test results. -John

[Bob In Ct]

Fram tends to use less paper in both their air and oil filters. Myself, I prefer Mobil1, Wix or AC. NAPA gold is made by WIX.

Yahoo or Google "Oil Filter Comparison" for some interesting reading.

Bob

[xlr8or]

I've been using the K&N oil filters and they seem to work fine.

[Goober]

If you want to use the FL1, they also make the FL1 HP version which is a step up for racing applications. It will clear the SPF frame. The K & N will not clear. Just tried it last week

Mark

[xlr8or]

Which K&N were your running? They have a full size FL1 replacement and one that is about an inch and half shorter.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Goober

The K & N will not clear. Just tried it last week

Mark

Never had a problem on mine. It's a little tight when you drop it down (it will hit the frame), but then again so will the FL1A. And the built-in nut that they put on the bottom of the K&N is almost worthless except for the fact that the holes allow for safety wire. You could also put a large band clamp around the filter (snug tight) and safety wire that, too.

FWIW, I have not noticed a difference in oil pressure between the FL1A and K&N units. And I change my oil frequent enough that general filter quality is not a concern (although pay heed to what was said before about the Frams...junk).

-Dean

[Goober]

The K & N I used interchanges with the FL1-HP or FL1A. K & N part
No. HP3001. The length is 5.42" long which is just a tad longer than the Motorcraft. Could be your remote is bolted a hair or two higher than mine.

Mark

[Frank Messina]

I personally haven't mustered the courage to plunk down the necessary ka-ching ( about $100 ) to buy one, but perhaps one of the re-useable stainless steel canister types would help you. They tend to be comparatively compact but offer a lot of filtration and flow, along with internal magnets to catch the chunks. I had a chance to examine one at a COCOA meeting and was impressed with what I saw although I'm not sure how much of a PITA it would be to clean one of them. Just a thought.
Frank

[RedBarchetta]

Frank, you and I are of the same mindset...spend an hour thoroughly cleaning out one of those things or spend $5-10 and just screw another paper element-based filter in? Unless you have a really nice portable parts washer to work with, not even going to try.

[Cobra 29]

The Mobile One short version of the FL1 is M1-109. The standard length Mobile One filter is M1-301. I switched to the shorter filter for additional ground clearance.

[Bob In Ct]

Cobra 29:
Any concern that the shorter Mobil1 filter will hinder oil flow and reduce pressure?

Bob

[Dirty Harry]

Most of all the filters I've used over the years have been FL-1's and I've never had any problem at all. I had a Fram on my nearly new pickup truck and it developed a split in the metal jacket and dribbled oil for my entire 75 minute commute to work. When I parked and got out, I saw the puddle developing and popped the hood. I only had a quart and a half left. (out of 6) No reason for a hand-tightened filter to have a failure like that. Probably an isolated incident, but that experience left me skeptical of that brand.

[CHANMADD]

There have been issues with Fram not flowing at high RPM, so I am told.