Vintage autolite voltage regulator????

[Gunner]

Within the normal range of alternators (50-100 amps or so) there should be no problem as long as the wiring matches up. All the VR does is cut the alternator in and out of the circuit as needed to maintain the voltage and the battery charging. The rating of the alternator only means that it can pump out more amps to feed stuff without having the voltage pulled down.

When you're powering a flashlight, it doesn't matter whether you do it from two D cells or a whole bank of Optimas.

When you start to get into truck systems and the overpowered stuff in boom cars, it's different. But the stock stuff all works pretty much the same way and to the same limits.

[patrickt]

Your C3SZ-10316-A was spec'd by Ford at 55 amps and footnoted that it was not to be used in solid state ignitions. I have read posts in other forums that voltage regulators not designed for SS ignitions, like an MSD unit for example, can cause problems with them. Personally, I wouldn't use theC3SZ-10316-A on a car with an MSD box (or similar CD system).

[PANAVIA]

We like the MOTORCRAFT Part # GR540B -FOAZ10316A, FOPZ10316A.

If the situation calls for it we will put on a vintage top , but this is a rock solid unit -

should be about $29

[dlotz]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Your C3SZ-10316-A was spec'd by Ford at 55 amps and footnoted that it was not to be used in solid state ignitions. I have read posts in other forums that voltage regulators not designed for SS ignitions, like an MSD unit for example, can cause problems with them. Personally, I wouldn't use theC3SZ-10316-A on a car with an MSD box (or similar CD system).

I have the C5AF 15V regulator and yes I plan to run a MSD 6AL. Don't have an ERA, I am building a non-donar FFR MK3.1 and putting a vintage 427 side oiler in it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dlotz

I have the C5AF 15V regulator and yes I plan to run a MSD 6AL. Don't have an ERA, I am building a non-donar FFR MK3.1 and putting a vintage 427 side oiler in it.

OK, I can't find the specs on the C5AF-10316-B other than it was for 65-67 cars with No AC. I would suspect though that it has a similar amp rating and a similar prohibition on solid state ignitions. If you do opt to use it, just tickle in the back of your mind that if you experience any charging or flaky ignition problems to just replace your VR as a matter of course before you start hunting more obscure causes. I really like the idea of a side oiler in your FFR. That's a nice move.

[Rick Parker]

I have used the 65 Autolite regulator, a 42 amp early 64 (1st series) OEM Niece alternator from a 63 or 64 Mercury Montclair and MSD 6T and they have worked flawlessly for 20 years.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

I have used the 65 Autolite regulator, a 42 amp early 64 (1st series) OEM Niece alternator from a 63 or 64 Mercury Montclair and MSD 6T and they have worked flawlessly for 20 years.

Yeah, you would think that after 40 years whatever noise the old VRs put into the line would have been filtered out long ago by the MSD people. And FWIW, MSD says their boxes only use 1 amp per 1000 RPM, if anybody was curious about that since most of our installations do not have the MSD box being powered through the amp gauge (as per MSD's black-boxed warnings).

[Rick Parker]

Maybe the Anilog Boxes aren't affected but my guess is the opening an closing of the relays within the Voltage Regulator could become pitted (which they do) and then create elecrical Noise which might cause issues for the MSD box in some situations

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Maybe the Anilog Boxes aren't affected (?)

Maybe. I remember a thread or two on some other forums where guys claimed the old style, non-solid state, voltage regulators caused intermittent problems with their MSD box -- and it was a revving problem. They could always be wrong though. I do know that MSD discourages the use of the older style voltage regulators unless you hook a diode in the circuit. They say the current can back-feed through your charging light and keep the MSD box alive. I can't remember anyone on this forum every complaining of that though.

[Rick Parker]

I had that happen on a 1964 Mini Cooper S (fun car) that I had a long time ago. It had a generator, maybe THAT was of some concern (?)

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

It had a generator, maybe THAT was of some concern (?)

No, it does it with alternators too. Here's the MSD tech link on it: http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3296 Now that would be one run-on situation that would be pretty tricky to diagnose.

[dlotz]

So

from the ERA website the diagram show the "I" terminal going to the ignition light.

Is this a positive or a negative feed? I tried to wire it directly to he light and I can't get the light to come on. I had the light running to the IGN key switch and it worked but now I can't get it to light up.

I looks like it should be the ground feed to the light, right?

Is the 15ohm shunt needed?

[strictlypersonl]

The I terminal is powered through the light whenever the ignition switch is on. In the original Ford circuit, there was also a shunt around the bulb to allow a bit more current, but we've found that the shunt is not necessary if you rev the engine over 1000 rpm at startup.

[patrickt]

dlotz -- I know there's a thread on the ERA forum here discussing the circuit, how the small charge through the filament excites the VR, etc. as I specifically remember photocopying the diagrams from my automotive textbooks that were used in the classes I took on the stuff way back in the 1970's and quipped that I must have been asleep when we went over it. I'm sure I posted them here along with the explanatory text from the manuals. It's really a very simple, basic circuit but if the dang filament in the bulb is broken, and you don't have a shunt, you'll never get your charging system up and running.

[dlotz]

Originally Posted by strictlypersonl

The I terminal is powered through the light whenever the ignition switch is on. In the original Ford circuit, there was also a shunt around the bulb to allow a bit more current, but we've found that the shunt is not necessary if you rev the engine over 1000 rpm at startup.

Is a SHUNT the same as a RESISTOR? I went to radioshack for the SHUNT and this is what he suggested:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062310

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dlotz

Is a SHUNT the same as a RESISTOR? I went to radioshack for the SHUNT and this is what he suggested:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062310

Yes, that is perfect. A 15 ohm resistor is just what should be used, if anything is to be used at all.