Dimensions for front and rear badge locations

[Roy Pinner]

Looking for dimentions for front and rear badge
locations on 66 SC roadster. From front hood seam
and front trunk seam.
For F5 Mk 4
Thanks
Roy Pinner
roypinner@gmail.com
cell 772-473-7700

[mickmate]

Hi Roy nose is 12" forward of hood edge, trunk is 17 1/2" below top edge. Side emblems are centered over louvres 1 1/2" above the top edge. All dimensions are to centers of emblems.

[YerDugliness]

I have resurected this thread because I have two C3RA-14225-A Cobra badges (sourced from Finish Line) that I want to mount on the nose and trunk. Finish Line directions indicate the front to mount at 11.5" forward of the edge of the hood and the rear to mount 18.5" from top edge of trunk.

The Finish Line directions do not indicate if the measurement is to the edge of the badge, to the top pin, or to the center of the badge.

Mickmate, I trust you measurements more. Were your measurements specifically for the FFR MkIV the OP wanted to fit, or were your measurements for placement per the 1960's CSX originals?

My replica is a '66 427 S/C body style....very original looking, according to the gentleman who worked for the Yates racing organization and who swore up and down it was original, said he knew so because he had worked on quite a few back in the mid-to-late 1960's...until I tapped on the body and it was clear that it is fiberglass . Since it is such a convincing replica I would like to have the badge placement correct, too.

Additionally, should the back of the badge rest directly on the paint or should there be some sort of cushion between the badge and the paint?

Thanks for whatever info you can provide!

Cheers!

Dugly

[mickmate]

Anything I do is as original as possible or as best I can tell from measuring any I'm able to. The length of panels is going to be different from brand to brand. Emblems should come with pins on the back and go right against the paint. Pucker up and drill some holes for them I reckon. Then they get spring clips on the pin backs to hold them on.

[Dingocooke]

I went with the finish line emblems, and their dimensions worked fine to the lower edge of the badge
Also, I cut the pins off flush, and fitted them using 3M automotive emblem tape; this is very secure, but you can get the badges off if needed wihout damage to car or badge with a length of fishing line to gently 'saw' through the tape (easier on a warm day or with gentle heat from a hair dryer on the emblem face to soften up the tape adhesive)
Have fun whatever you decide!!!
Steve

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by mickmate

Anything I do is as original as possible or as best I can tell from measuring any I'm able to. The length of panels is going to be different from brand to brand. Emblems should come with pins on the back and go right against the paint. Pucker up and drill some holes for them I reckon. Then they get spring clips on the pin backs to hold them on.

Thanks for the clarification, Mickmate!

I'll just get the drill out and have at it....my emblems do come with pins, but did not come with spring clips, so I went to the local hardware store and came up with some "speed-nuts", or so they call them. They are a spring clip to me...just push on the pins.

Onward: Through the fog!

Cheers , Mickmate, from Dugly

[rpatton3]

E.R.A. has diagram but I LIKE the fishing line "saw" which is kinda like using dental floss to cut birthday cake.

Russell

[mickmate]

I see your perspective and the 3M emblem adhesive works fine for that. I use it on valve cover emblems and it even handles some heat like that and you don't have any holes in your valve covers. If they put holes in the body of priceless aluminum cars for emblems that's good enough for me. Like a plate on the car they're always gonna be there.

[YerDugliness]

Well, folks, I got them on!

I'd love to post photos, but I can't seem to get Photobucket to work right tonight

The measurements given by MickMate and ERA were essentially the same, the ones from Finish Line weren't very clear, so I used the ERA/MickMate measurements and am very happy with the way they look.

If I can bring Photobucket to it's knees, I'll post some photos...here's hoping!

[EDIT: It took a couple of days but Photobucket managed to clear multiple issues, so here are some photos of the finished product:]

First, a closeup of the badges, first front, then rear:




And now full views, so you can see approximate locations (keep in mind yours may differ, depending on the dimensions of your body):




I am pleased with the look!

I did drill holes in my replica's body to mount the badges, and used a round "push type bolt holder" in size #6 to secure them to the body. It is a bit difficult to get the bolt holder on with your fingers, so I chose a small socket with a diameter to match the circular bolt holder and with the help of an extension used that to push the bolt holder up onto the pins from underneath. Worked just fine for me, hope it does so for you.

Cheers!

Dugly

[rpatton3]

Looks great!

Russell