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-   -   Smiths 30A ammeter (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/originality-forum/143616-smiths-30a-ammeter.html)

xb-60 05-16-2020 10:05 PM
Smiths 30A ammeter
 
2 Attachment(s)
I can't see how my Smiths ammeter is to be retained (see rear pic below).

Suggestions?

Cheers,
Glen

tkb289 05-17-2020 07:09 AM
Hi Glen,

Find some rubber tubing that has in ID about the same size at the OD of the amp meter. Cut two pieces that almost wrap around the meter, but leave a gap. Take a radiator band camp and gently tighten, to make a ‘retaining ring’ of sorts. That would be one suggestion.

Ivygreen65 05-17-2020 09:29 AM
Glen,

I believe there are 4 small tabs (you can see a couple in your photo) that should be bent out just enough to hold the gauge in place.

sd427 05-17-2020 01:27 PM
Minor point, but it's a Lucas ammeter, not Smith's.

xb-60 05-17-2020 05:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd427 (Post 1476749)
Minor point, but it's a Lucas ammeter, not Smith's.
:eek: Well picked! Just seeing if you're awake ;)

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 05-17-2020 06:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivygreen65 (Post 1476741)
Glen,

I believe there are 4 small tabs (you can see a couple in your photo) that should be bent out just enough to hold the gauge in place.
Yeah, I saw them and thought I could bend them out, but even before fitting in location, they were looking to be too stiff to bend.

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 05-17-2020 06:03 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by tkb289 (Post 1476726)
Hi Glen,

Find some rubber tubing that has in ID about the same size at the OD of the amp meter. Cut two pieces that almost wrap around the meter, but leave a gap. Take a radiator band camp and gently tighten, to make a ‘retaining ring’ of sorts. That would be one suggestion.
Tim,

Thanks, that should work :)

Cheers,
Glen

Dwight 05-17-2020 07:18 PM
four small beads of silicone and let it dry overnight. I like black silicone.

CHANMADD 05-17-2020 08:25 PM
Put an O'ring around it.

rsk289 05-18-2020 01:14 AM
They are simply a push fit. The four lugs should grip tight enough in the hole to retain it OK, so trial fitting when you make (or trim) the hole is important.
I normally make pie-wedges in the leather for the trim, then fold the triangles back through the hole and glue to the back of the aluminium. That way you are much less likely to get it coming unglued around the instrument bezel.

And don't forget to position the external bulb holder for the fuel gauge, which is mounted on the clamp, so the bulb can shine up into the ammeter as well. The ammeter has no illumination source of its own.

1795 05-18-2020 03:31 AM
Glen,

Whatever you do, make sure that it is done in a way that can be un-done just in case you have to replace the gauge. It would really suck to have to remove the whole dashboard to replace a gauge. Remember that there will be little room to work with once everything is all together.

Good luck.

Jim

scootter 05-18-2020 03:14 PM
Just a thought. I just removed my amp meter since I had a meltdown under the dash a couple weeks ago. Replaced it with the volt meter that uses small gauge wire and rewired the alternator and fuse panel.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared...N6DkNpDAfUmvNT

rsk289 05-18-2020 03:21 PM
Yes, the unprotected ammeter wired directly into the main live cables behind the dash is a bit of a worry. I have a Dynator - an alternator hidden in a dynamo casing. This is a Lucas C40T type, with the rear take-off for the cable-drive tachometer. Running this alternator means the Lucas control box no longer contains the bobbin voltage regulator apparatus. The control box now acts as a junction box, and includes a whole-system 60A fuse. This protects the wiring harness including the ammeter.

xb-60 05-18-2020 03:59 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsk289 (Post 1476778)
They are simply a push fit. The four lugs should grip tight enough in the hole to retain it OK, so trial fitting when you make (or trim) the hole is important....
Roger, due to luck rather than intention, the fit of the ammeter is a tight push fit. I think I'll also use Tim's suggestion and also use a hose clamp for extra security.

Interestingly, I have an almost identical looking, but 50A meter, and it has a central threaded stud for the more conventional securing clamp

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 05-18-2020 04:06 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootter (Post 1476814)
Just a thought. I just removed my amp meter since I had a meltdown under the dash a couple weeks ago. Replaced it with the volt meter that uses small gauge wire and rewired the alternator and fuse panel.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared...N6DkNpDAfUmvNT
Yes, a voltmeter is the safer option, but I'll stick with an ammeter for originality. I do however have an electrical cutoff switch in a very handy spot for "insurance" :)

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 05-18-2020 04:12 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1795 (Post 1476779)
Glen,

Whatever you do, make sure that it is done in a way that can be un-done just in case you have to replace the gauge. It would really suck to have to remove the whole dashboard to replace a gauge. Remember that there will be little room to work with once everything is all together.

Good luck.

Jim
Jim, I very much understand what you're saying. I'm resisting fitting the two temp gauges until the engine is in and the wiring is done because, being bourdon tube gauges, it would be a real pain to have to remove the dash panel if those two gauges were fitted. The ammeter should be adequately accessible.

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 05-18-2020 04:17 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsk289 (Post 1476815)
Yes, the unprotected ammeter wired directly into the main live cables behind the dash is a bit of a worry. I have a Dynator - an alternator hidden in a dynamo casing. This is a Lucas C40T type, with the rear take-off for the cable-drive tachometer. Running this alternator means the Lucas control box no longer contains the bobbin voltage regulator apparatus. The control box now acts as a junction box, and includes a whole-system 60A fuse. This protects the wiring harness including the ammeter.
It is possible that I might be able to legally "de-smog" my 302 after registration, and if so, it was my intention to fit a Lucas C40 generator. I hadn't previously heard of the C40T; I'll have to look into that.

Cheers,
Glen

edit: just looked at the pricing....these units are around the GBP500 mark %/

rsk289 05-18-2020 11:25 PM
2 Attachment(s)
Yes Glen, accuracy doesn't come cheap!

The modifications, rebuild and new dial face for the Sunbeam Rapier or early MGA cable-drive rev counter to Cobra spec doesn't come cheap either!

Before and after:

xb-60 05-19-2020 01:45 AM
Nice job there :)
Which Cobras had 10000 RPM Smiths tachometers?

rsk289 05-19-2020 02:03 AM
Dan will probably know for sure, but this one is copied from the mechanical tacho in COB6029, the Haynes Museum car -a leafspring rack and pinion.


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