408W motor for sale

Tim Votaw · #1 (**permalink**) 01-02-2003, 05:52 PM

Complete 408W motor. Long block by Coast High Performance. Finished and installed by owner in Superformance #724. Less than 600 mi., still on 4,000 rpm limiter for break-in.

Major features:
- 1974 block, fully prepped, ARP main studs, girdle.
- Eagle forged steel crank & rods, Probe 10:1 forged alum. pistons.
- Victor Jr. Stage II heads, port-matched Weiand Stealth intake, FPS #4022W hyd. roller cam & lifters (238/248 @ .050, .544/.573, 112). Roller rockers, ARP studs, all ARP hdwe.
- Holley #80528 750HP Pro carb, jetted and set-up, braided -8AN.
- early Ford front timing cover, Edelbrock alum. H2O pump, Romac 28 oz. SFI damper, March 1V billet alum. pulleys, Melling HV83 oil pump & shaft, Milodon 8 qt. low profile front sump pan. MSD Pro Billet distributor, wires. Powermaster 100A alternator, CSI Hi-torque starter.

Tuned by Craig Hill @ Top of Hill Racing. No dyno figures, but built for 525 fwhp & lb/ft. target.

Currently running with an Art Carr Extreme AOD trans, also for sale.

Some pics in my gallery, more by email. Invoice & build sheet available by fax to serious inquiries.

Asking $9,000.00, shipping extra.

My home phone: (541) 269-2360, PST.

TimV.

PJ UPTMOR · #2 (**permalink**) 01-03-2003, 11:41 AM

WHY ARE SELLING THE 408 ENGINE. ARE YOU GOING BB?

Bill Wells · #3 (**permalink**) 01-03-2003, 01:36 PM

tim v...you've got mail. bill

Tim Votaw · #4 (**permalink**) 01-04-2003, 02:46 AM

PJ: No, actually, I want to build a big/small motor from the new DART block, round about 434 cu.in. It's a commonly held belief that the Ford OEM blocks, even the pre-'74's, should probably hold up at 408-418 cu.in. for durability purposes. (Not talking about SVO's.) I'm sure I'd get an argument, but that's my take on it, anyhow.

So, the 408 has to find a new home, hopefully in a cobra or such.

Tim

coosawjack · #5 (**permalink**) 01-04-2003, 05:12 AM

Hey Tim....

How bad does it leak??? Mine poured oil from the rear main with a '74 block!!!

Maybe you got lucky.....I sure didn't!!! Had to install a sleeve on the crank to stop it.

Good Luck selling it!!

Jack

Tim Votaw · #6 (**permalink**) 01-04-2003, 07:19 PM

Jack: So far, so good on the rear main, or anything else. Tried to use good sealants where appropriate, fussed over the assembly like an old woman...

Tim

David Biele · #7 (**permalink**) 01-16-2003, 04:37 PM

Hey Tim,

Is this motor still available???

David

Tim Votaw · #8 (**permalink**) 01-18-2003, 02:58 PM

David: Yes, it's still available. Want to make me an offer I can't refuse?

Tim

David Biele · #9 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 05:16 PM

Tim,

I would be interested only in the motor. I am currently getting prices from Southern Automotive on a new build. The price for a new Southern is very comparable to what you want for a used motor. I was going to wait a couple of months before placing a order, but maybe we can come up with a price that would work.

David

Lubrecon · #10 (**permalink**) 01-21-2003, 07:24 PM

Coosawjack-

I have a CHP 408 also, and get a leak from the rear main also. One in the front where the crankshaft comes through the block. Had the pan off 5 times, new seals, bought a new pan, replaced the rear main, still has a small leak. How did you solve your rear leak? Explain here, or send me an email if it takes too much space on the site.

Thanks,

Jerry Shelby, Lubrecon@aol.com

David Biele · #11 (**permalink**) 01-22-2003, 07:57 AM

lubrecon,

I was talking with House of Cobras and they had a customer with a similar problem with there CHP. It turned out that the end journal on the crank were slightly out of round causing the leak.
Don't know how true, but FYI.

David

coosawjack · #12 (**permalink**) 01-23-2003, 04:10 AM

Hey Guys....

I tried to post from out of town yesterday but the site would not recognize me and post was rejected!!!???

The Fel-Pro "Ready Sleeve" part number is 99376 The kit includes the install tool as well.

The sleeve effectively increases the rear seal journal diameter about .009" and has stopped leaking in every case I know of!!

The older "rope seal" blocks that eventually used two piece neoprene seals were not machines with the greatest of accuracy since the rope made up for any variations. If the seal groove was a little too deep the neoprene seal will not be squeezed enough to seal and pesky leaks ensue. I changed my neoprene seal 5 times and even tried a rope.....CANNOT do a rope right with the crank in place!!! Sleeve and a new neoprene seal fixed it......Over a year and NO LEAKS!!!! (Knock Knock!!)

It works so well that the block plate is rusting a little!!

I also have a little trick for one piece seals with coil spring tensioners.....email me for details.

Jack

Tim Votaw · #13 (**permalink**) 02-18-2003, 07:02 PM

Price reduced to $8,000.00