scratch build

[John Boath]

Mark,
Ah, the picture clears that up.
I'm not aware of any shrinking dies that would access that shape.
I think the plan you and your son came up with is ideal. Forming one flange will make it much easier to clamp the part in a form block.

No gutters on my project yet.

[MAStuart]

Hi All. I haven't posted any thing on my build in a while. I have been working on it slowly. I am getting ready to go to Metal Meet in October and take the buck and make some panels. I have been busy filling in some areas of the buck with polyurethane foam, one layer of fiberglass cloth, skim coat of kittyhair and finishing it off with good old bondo. This lets me see if the lines are what they need to be. I have been making minor changes to make the lines on the buck flow more smoothly. When I finish getting this part smoothed up and primed, I will be able to make flexibls shaped patterns and finally be able to start shaping some aluminum panels for body skins.


Still needs filler and priming

[elmariachi]

Excellent work. I am anxious to follow your progress.

Jim

[PaulProe]

Mike
Good to see your progress. Looks like things have begun to come together since I was up to your shop.

thanks for the hospitality

Paul Proefrock

[LMH]

Really impressive Mark!
Larry

[MAStuart]

Aera partly fill with pink foam board and a piece of aluminum to block off the rest of the aera



This much 2 part urathane foam



After mixing and pouring into cavity



After foam expands and form stripped



After all aeras filled



Tools used to ruff foam in



Pic after epoxy and glass cloth also aluminum panel sitting in place



Shot of rocker I made in place



Looking inside buck at rocker ......nice fit



More later

[jberg]

Hi, Looks nice work. Could you say what kind of alloy you use?

[MAStuart]

.060 3003 H14 aluminum

[PaulProe]

Mike
Sent you a PM about Metal Meet

Paul

[COBRANIP]

Very inspiring!
Is there any problem with the urethane expanding with enough force to warp the jig?
Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming!

John

[MAStuart]

The foam I used is what they called 2 1/2 pound density. 2 1/2 pounds per cubic foot.
As long as it is not completely enclosed I dont think it will be a problem. Mark

[stengun]

Howdy Mark,

Pretty neat!

Any updates on your build?

Paul

[krausewich]

Hi Mark,
Sorry to post out of sequence, but is there any chance you could fab the channel by using a tipping wheel on a beadroller?

Love the scratchwork! Very excited it's a coupe. Keep rollin'
Mike.

[MAStuart]

Paul, Mike,
Thanks for your interest in my project. I have been slowly getting some work done on it. Not very good about posting about it. I have lots of pictures of progress and will be posting some information soon on how I made the gutters and other parts. Meanwhile here are a couple of shots of a pair of gas pedals that I made this last weekend, for the coupes.

[mickmate]

They look nice. Period details like brazing them together are very cool.

[MAStuart]

Thanks Nick. At one time I thought I saw a ad for a used original 427 rear lower control arm and some of it appeared to be brazed. Was there parts that were brazed on original cars? Thruth be told my welding lately sucks. It takes the fun out of building nice parts. When the part looks good only to put a big crappy looking weld on a part like this. I thought brazing was the way to go. Mark

[COBRANIP]

Keep building up the weld......then grind it down nice and smooth! Works for me (as long as you're getting good penetration).

[MAStuart]

Today I built some mounting brackets for the gas pedal. These are bolted to the side of the pedal box.



The proccess I used to build them was. First I cut a blank to the width It needs to be but I left it longer than needed. Next I took a piece of scrap of the same thickness and scribed lines where the bends should be and bent in the order that the real bracket will be bent. I then measured the piece, in this case the lines were scribed at 2 inches, the actual measurement of the part was 1.900. Now I know I need to add .100 to my measurement. Now I scribe my lines at 2.100 on my part and bend, using this method you can usually have a part that measures within a few thousands of what you want it to be. By the way, I am bending this in a Di Acro 24in box and pan brake rated at 16 gauge. Bending 11gauge is called abusing it.

Next, I put layout bluing on the part and used a digital height gauge and layed out where the holes are to be drilled and the part needs to be trimmed.



Next I clamped it in the mill and use a wiggle indicator to dial in where the holes need to be drilled.



Part is center drilled and then drilled to size and then repeated for the other holes.



For the rest of the process I didn't take any pictures. The part was cut on all cut lines with a delta 4x6 band saw. A little file work to clean up sharp edges and you end up with a nice part. Using the same process make and bend the throttle stop bracket and weld it to the other part, throw in the bead blaster and clean it up. It is then ready for paint. I will post some more when I get a chance. Mark

[mickmate]

I saw those control arms. They may have been made in England, from original parts by the original guy in the original factory but they were originally welded together not brazed on suspension. There is a pretty good formula for calculating stock gain on bends based on angle, thickness, bend radii etc. Try using a material thickness for a 90 and see how close that is. The way we explain machinery abuse is it can bend 4 ft of 16 ga so it can bend 2 ft of 11 ga, same thing only different ha ha yeah right ;-)
Good work and progress.

[G-Pete]

Originally Posted by mickmate

The way we explain machinery abuse is it can bend 4 ft of 16 ga so it can bend 2 ft of 11 ga, same thing only different ha ha yeah right ;-)
Good work and progress.

The difference is, you need 1.9 t/ft (16Ga) or 9.2 t/ft (11Ga) - with a 0.875 V.
The 50% does not quite cut it hehe