scratch build

[1985 CCX]

Very cool and inspiring! Keep it up!

[Fullchat289]

Looking forward to more progress!

- Allen.

[MAStuart]

The difference is, you need 1.9 t/ft (16Ga) or 9.2 t/ft (11Ga) - with a 0.875 V.
The 50% does not quite cut it hehe

Had to think about this ..... didn't know what it meant. When the lightbulb came on press brake! Looking at your build and looking at the background in some of the pictures you know a lot about them.

I thought about making a small one for a hydraulic shop press. But I don't have one of those either. A friend has one I can use. Anyhow I have been using my 24 inch diacro box and pan brake. It is only rated at 16 gage. Doing a piece of full width (24 in) 16 gauge and to get a nice crisp bend is tough on this machine. The brake has some spring to it. When I try to bend 11 gauge in narrower widths is doable but hard to get a nice tight radius. When I use it to bend 11 gauge I loose material in the bend, not gain. My scribed bend line ends up part way up in the radius. That is why I was saying that if you draw 2 lines at 2 in apart and make the bend I end up with the sides being 1.900 apart. That's why I bend a practice piece so I know how much to fudge my numbers.

Pic of my brake

[MAStuart]

Well Tuesday was a nice warm day(60 deg) . I spent most of the day in the unheated garage. Here's a shot of my progress when I went in the house at midnight.

,

If anyone has any questions or need a different view, just ask.

Krausewich,
Don't worry about asking things out of sequence. I am not doing anything in sequence here. I am just building as I go. If I get stumped on one thing I move on to something else, work on the frame, work on the buck, make new brackets. At the time I asked the question about making the rain gutters, I didn't even know what a pullmax or a tipping wheel was. This build will be jumping around a lot. When I find the pictures of how I built the rain gutters, I will get them posted. Thanks Mark

[MAStuart]

This is a early frame build picture. It is now the one under my buck



Front backbone detail



More backbone detail



Closer look at backbone



Better look at removable bockbone

[MAStuart]

Detail shot after I cut rear cross tube out and welded in new tube in the proper place. Now everything lines up right





Detail of rear spring tower before top plate is welded in.








This is the reason you cant use a jag rear with a top mount like a 427 car. There is no room. But a jag with side mounts like Nick Action Customs makes would work very well.

[MAStuart]

Quick jack bracket



Backbone brace bracket mounts



Tiltfront end upper locating bracket



Tilt front end lower latch mounting brackets



Rear swaybar mounting bracket



Steering rack mounting spacers



Upper and lower radiator mounting bracket



Tilt front end hindge



Steering rack mounting brackets



Front swaybar mounting brackets

[krausewich]

Killer home built brackets !!! You really make some nice stuff.
Eagerly awaiting the progress.

Mike.

[PDUB]

Awesome work! We appreciate you sharing... keep the photos coming.

[MAStuart]

I have been busy building door hinges for my coupe. They are build according to specs of the plans. The plans don't specifiy anything about welding. I have spent alot of time looking on club cobra and elsewhere on the internet trying to find detailed pictures of the original daytona coupe hinges. My question is, how were they welded, not the process but how were they welded as far as the curved plate. Were they welded completely around it or did they skip around similar to what I have shown in the picture?
Thanks in advance. Later I will try to post some pictures of the process I went thru to build these hinges. Mark

[MAStuart]

To make the hinge I needed to bend some 1/2 inch tubing. I wanted them to be all the same. I have a diacro hand bender but no 1/2 inch die with 3 1/2 center radius. I turned a blank on the lathe and finished it in the mill on a rotary table I also made a follow bar.





Here they are with a tube blank mounted on the bender



Tubing blanks all bent and they all came out nice



Next Imade a jig from scrap to cut them all to the same length



The same jig in the mill to cope the other end



Another jig made from scrap to hold the end tube for welding



Here it is all ready to weld.



Thats all for now .......... Mark

[MAStuart]

After all the pivot tubes welding was done I needed to cope the cross tubes .I put them in the mill vice and milled one end on each tube. I then clamped a stop to the table. Now it is easy to cope the other end to the right length and have the copes line up.



Now it is time to clamp all the parts together. Back to the scrap box and some vicegrips and I came up with this.



After welding



I then sheared some 18 gage to size and ran them thru my slip roller . Here they are after welding to the hinge.



I still need to know if these were welded like this or should they have a weld all the way around. Thats all for now. Mark

[jolsen42]

All I can say is WOW. You scratch builders are amazing.

John O

[stengun]

Howdy,

OMG! Your skills are unbelievable!

Was far as the welding goes I would ask Chuck. If anyone would know it would be him. If in doubt leave them the way they are, they look great!

Keep the pics and updates coming!

Paul

[migge]

A very very professional work with professional equipment.

Keep us posted.

Cheers
Migge

[mdross1]

Think of the investment in machines,tools and equipment just to start a scratch build like this.Certainly way beyond the means of most.Then there has to be the creative mentality to pull the build off.Enjoy seeing the progress,ground up built my car (from a kit) and can relate to the parts and pieces which in itself is very interesting.Looking forward to the next installment.Mike

[MAStuart]

Hey ! I'm back to work on my pedal box and my plans call for 1 1/2 inch holes for the master cylinders and 5/16 bolt holes with 2 1/4 spacing. But I have a girling and the bolt spacing is the same and the center hole only needs to be 1 3/8 . Willwoods are the same . Does the large hole need to be 1 1/2 to clear the master cyl with the rubber boot on.

[cobrakiwi]

Yes, 1.5 inches

[Imperial Wheel]

Thanks for showing your hinges Mark. I'm redoing the decklid on my roadster and your photos made the light bulb come on.

I've wished a jillion times I had gone with a superleggera approach.

[MAStuart]

Cobrakiwi Thanks I made the holes 1 1/2 It Looks like a sloppy fit but thats what the plans call for.

What material should I have made the pedals out of.

Is there any other place besides cobra restorers for the pedal springs. The price about $20 each .I needed 4 . Was feeling cheap and made a jig and made my own. they take about 2 mins each. Sometime this summer I am going to make a pattern an cast my own pedal pads. I am going to do this because I can.The two pads I have came from Cobra Restorers.



Shot of one of my pedal boxes. I still have some small parts to make.



Pic of spring on pedal



And last a shot of my buck with some aluminum I have been shaping . It is coming along slowly.





Now I need some info. I have the material cut for the rear lower control arms .
My plans only show the control arm and the pin to conect the control arm to the upright. What steel should be used for the pin. Does anyone have a picture or a drawing that shows all the parts needed to Install the upright to the lower a arm. I think it takes a bushing And some kind of seal and I am not sure of what else. Also I think the shocks attach to these pins. I hope someone can shed a little light on this. Thats all for now . Mark