scratch build

[mickmate]

Pedals are somewhere between 3/8 and 5/16. With the funny angle they get pushed on I err on the safe side with 3/8. I make my own pedal pad torsion springs also. The shocks do attach to the pins, I would make them from a 17-4 PH stainless. It machines, threads nicely, has good strength and can be precipitation hardened to your requirements. I wouldn't harden it as it is likely to warp and need finish grinding and it doesn't need it in this application. I have some 289 shafts here made up but you want to make your own I'm guessing. I would guess skip welded hinges, I'll let you know when I get my hands on a file of detail Coupe pics. I see enough parts for two cars popping out of the tooling ;-) Good stuff Mark.

[mickmate]

4130 is another consideration for shafts.

[MAStuart]

Thanks Nick ! The pedal are 3/8 . I was going to make them from 1018 but used 4140 annealed. I thought it would wear a little better where the pins go threw to hook the master cylinders . I dont know if this was a good choice. I also got some 3/4 inch 4140 pre hardened and some in the annealed condition for the upright pins. Here again not sure if this was a wise choice.

Yes I am building two . When I make parts it's not much more work to make Two sets of parts as it is to make one. If I ever get them done I and other family members or friends will be able to take them to open track events. This my open a whole other can of worms. I am not sure what kind of mods I will have to do to the frame so that they will let me run.

I still need info on the connection between the upright and lower a arm. There must be more parts . They must get washers and nuts . Do they get cotter pins ? I know the upright get pinch bolts to clamp the upright to the shaft. But what else. Do they get greese zerks? Do they use any bushings or bearing material.....Are there any spacers . The plans tell you to to machine the spuds that go on the outside end of the a arm for the seals you are going to us. I have no info on any of these parts. Any info would be help. Mark

[MAStuart]

I have been slowly making some aluminum panels for my project. I also filled in so more of the buck so I could take some patterns from it.






I could still use some info that i asked about im my last couple of post concerning the rear lower control arm to upright connection. Mark

[mr bruce]

wherd the windshield come from?

[MAStuart]

Mr Bruce The guy I got the windshield was kind of hesitant about selling me a windshield. So before I post who this one came from I should clear it with him first. Next time I talk to him I will ask if it is ok to post where it came from.

Lesher motorsports would probably sell you one or the previous owner of Upstates Supercars may have one to sell. A word of warning the cost of the windshield and shipping will not be cheap. A guess would be at least $1500 on up.


By the way what windshield do you use for your coupe body. I asked earlier in this thread but the original author never replied. Mark

[stengun]

Howdy Mark,

FFR's Coupe uses a '86 Jag XJS windshield. I don't think it will fit in an original type Coupe.

As far as the spacers, zerk fittings, etc go, no two Coupes where identical so it doesn't really matter but I would install the fittings. And the spacers if you think they are needed.

Oh, incredible workmanship!

Paul

[MAStuart]

Paul the jag window will not work. In replie to the other part of your post I am looking for info on all the parts that are needed to hook the upright to the lower controle arm on the rear of an original leaf spring car. (shaft bushings spacers ) Exploded view pic would be nice. Mark

[MAStuart]

I thought I would post a update on my project. Earlier this year I was asked If I would bring my buck to Oblong Il for there anual metalmeet as a group project. I ended up reshaping some of the buck to get some of the lines to flow a little better. I feel we made good progress and the body is looking good.



Here is a pic of the hammerform I made to form the blister so the webers will clear. We used it to form the blister into the upper middle panel instead of forming a blister and welding it into the completed tilt front end.



Some of the guys wanted to know If we could have a spring meet to work on the coupe project. It looks like we are going to have a May meet in Oblong to get more work done. If some of you scratch builder want to learn to shape metal . You might want to look into coming to the spring meet.
Mark

[LMH]

Outstanding!
Larry

[Jac Mac]

Had to 'look' real hard at the hammerform pic, it is concave isnt it?
I also filled in the entire buck to get the lines to flow, just too much room for mis-interpretation with only the profiles, no wonder that all six of the -originals- were slightly different...

[Clois Harlan]

I really want to see the next steps in your build. Do you have the panels built for both sides?

[MAStuart]

Thanks guys! Jac yes its concaved. It was clamped to the top of the panel. Panel was then turned upside down and hammered into the form. Do you have any pics of your buck? What is your buck based on ? How did you fill in between buck stations?


Chois Some of the panels have been started for the other side but not all of them. All of the panels need more work . They need to be very good . I would like to be able to polish the car if i wanted to . But sooner or later I will paint it.

Next I need to finish one of the frames so I can start to hang sheetmetal and start making inner structers. Any questions ? Mark

[Jac Mac]

My Buck started from a set of 'scaled up' drawings from a model car magazine ( 13 or 14 times thru a photocopier @ 125% with a clear sheet of squared graph plastic over it- that was back about 1983 then with the advent of the internet & a lot of reading etc it has evolved to what I have now, I did make contact with ' Chucks Cobra ' when I got my first PC in 2006 but decided I was too far along anyway and might as well continue with my own setup. )
The profiles were filled in with MDF and reworked to get everything looking right, 2013 looks to be fairly clear of other folks problems so hope to make some real progress soon.

[MAStuart]

Jac what will you be using for a windshield?

[Jac Mac]

Windshield was a big problem for me in that I could not lock down the shape & width of the roof without it, I eventually found two from other cars that 'fitted' the space without too much compromise, the one I chose has a little more curvature than the originals which might help overcome the problem that reqd the the added air foils on each side to make the air flow past the door windows & into the rear brake ducts. Sorry, not very keen to divulge source on that at moment!

[broadspeed]

amazing build i love to see more pics and i ll definatly be following this one

i tried to e mail chuck years ago before he finished his car
asking if he would help me out with some measurements but never got any response back
why is everyone so secretive about the correct measurements of the frame ?
back than i was planning on building a 1/5 scale replica of the daytona coupe , but it got stuck at the planning stage
nowadays i got more time on my hands and am planning again so if anyone can/ is willing to help me i would be so thankfull

regards

michel

[series2]

Hi there, I have been building a coupe from scratch for years. Working on side windows as the last piece. Not painted yet. I may sell and want people to see the work and not hide it.I am not good on computer so don't know how to get in touch with people yet. My email is carlover04473 @ aol.com if want to talk. Thanks Bruce. How far along are you?

[MAStuart]

Here are a couple of shots of the way thing look tonight.






Mark

[krausewich]

Missn your build Mark... What new ??

Mike.