It has begun - G-Pete's 289FIA Scratch Build

[G-Pete]

Slowly it starts looking like a car.




This is how the rear end of the car looks like from the bottom.



During the working hours the 289 is stored on top of the pallet rack - it actually occupies only one space.
I'm very fortunate to have a work place like that. Hard work and dedication will be rewarded, I can testify to that.

Thank you Bob (Boss).

[PDUB]

Amazing work! Very nice.

Did you make the tank?

[G-Pete]

Got this one off Ebay, for $102 shipped. By the time I buy the AN6 fittings, the roll over valve and the aluminum - it would be around $50, it did not make much sense to me.

Thank you.

[G-Pete]

For the guys and gals who are interested in the steps to make this adapter for the steering wheel here my picture website
AC Cobra 289FIA

[G-Pete]

Steering continued.
Upper knuckle welded to the 3/4" shaft.



Lower knuckle welded, also to see here the FF5 adapter for the 99-04 PS Rack. If you buy DD/0.75" round knuckles and just round rod you save close to $100. The DD/DD knuckles and DD-shafts are that much more.



Shallow angles makes the steering smooth. I do not understand why other builders put manual steering racks and wide tires on their cars. It is just a pain to drive.
Besides that my wife can enjoy the heck out of it...



Lower radiator mount.



Upper mount tab.

[G-Pete]

The radiator sits on a rubber cushion on the bottom.



The original radiator brackets were modified and used.



Plenty room for the supercharger intercooler.

[G-Pete]

My wife stepped by and took me to lunch, not before to try the pilots seat.



Bracket for the parking brake - the cup is from the donor.



Welded in place.



The brake assembly.



Bottom view of the adjustable bracket. I used the stock length of the cables.

[G-Pete]

Snatched a Harrison expansion tank on Ebay.



A little time and elbow grease...bracket is also done and polished.



One flange welded to the header and the second bolted on.



Same on the 32 inch cherry bomb.



3 inch down tube and elbow welded.



Passenger side done.



Same procedure on the driver side.



Plenty clearance.

[G-Pete]

The turnout is a clamp-on style with a rim. I tossed the original flange and made one which incorporates the exhaust hanger.



Bottom view of the hanger bracket and hanger.

[G-Pete]

These are the Summit Racing seat adjusters $16 you can't beat that.



The two outer 1x1 inch square tubes are bolted to the tracks. the inner will be welded.



The passenger side has a 1 inch offset, because of the lever.



The inner tubes have an angle to confirm the shape of the Kirkey racing seat.



Drill markings for the studs of the adjuster.



Test fit of the seat base...



...and the seat.



DR and PA bases are finished and painted.



DR seat mounted on the base.



The pilot seat is ready to drop in. The seats are adjustable in height and lean angle.



This was the view on end of the day sitting in the seat for a few minutes and glaring at that - before cleanup and storing the project. Everyone who build one of these understand these moments

[Fullchat289]

Really enjoying these updates! Nice to see the pic of the wifey...she appears well supportive of the project.

Just a quick observation...what happens if you need to change out a starter?

- Allen.

[G-Pete]

That question I asked my self in case of a starter failure. Well, two possibilities:


one-- I make a hatch and squeeze myself into the foot box, may I ask a smaller person to do that and change it out.

or

two-- I buy a new starter and if the starter fails in the future I have to lift the engine off the motor mounts and change it that way.


The donor starter worked just fine for the last 12 years. Close to 100K on the clock means about 4000 starts (daily driver). If the new one holds just the half of it, by that time I'm 85 years old and have forgotten why I came in the garage in the first place...


...I choose number two.

[G-Pete]

Driver side lower seat belt mount.



Upper driver side mount.



Passenger foot box completed.



Center frame completed.



With the passenger foot box angled, it is possible by removing the header to access the starter

[dallas_]

Pete, thanks for taking the time to show me your car today.

VERY nice work!

Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress.

[migge]

Very nice work but I wonder what the weight will be, a lot of heavy steel.

Cheers
Migge

[jbmatth]

I was concerned about the same thing, but I'm sure the thicker steel will add strength to the chassis. What are you expecting the car to weigh once complete?

[G-Pete]

John, you're welcome -good to meet ya.

Migge, the 16ga steel weighs 2.5 pounds per square foot. (foot box). The floor weighs 5 pounds per sq/ft
15 sqf foot box - 37.5 pounds
13.5 sqf floor - 67.5 pounds
estimated 2 pounds of weld

total 107.0 pounds.

Before the foot boxes and the floors the car was on the scale and read 1574 pounds (incl Body and rims). As of now I should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1700 pounds.
My target of 1800 pounds is out of the question. The estimate was based on aluminum foot boxes and floors. Seeing some of the "conventional" build ones after an accident, made me revise that plan. Just a flat tire spinning parts of it could crumble these alu foot boxes.
In the rear there will be added also steel splash guards (maybe 7 pounds).

To sum that up - just below 2000 lb is realistic.

That means 4.3 lb per HP. P to W = P/W
Better than a Lamborghini Murciélago (5.1lb/hp) or a Porsche 911 GT2 (6.1lb/hp)

[jbmatth]

Very well explained, thank you for the info, good luck and I'm enjoying reading your build.

[migge]

Under 2000 is very very okay I guess :-). My last one was 2.134 lbs.

Keep us posted.

Cheers
Migge

[dallas_]

Pete,
I think the minor amount of additional weight in the footboxes is well worth it.
Especially since you are still very light overall.

Does that also add rigidity to the chassis?

How much does the carbon fiber body weigh?