Midstates Update !

Mike_I · #1 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:17 PM

Well, I think I looked at too many pictures of forum member's "1985 CCX" car. Yeah, the old blue contemporary in his gallery caused all of this

... So, here goes. In an attempt to make my 1989 Vintage Midstates Cobra a little more period correct I'm taking her down to the bones. Some of the things I am hoping to replace with more period correct Items are as follows:

- Ford 9" Rear will be tossed out for a Jag E-Type IRS.
- Existing Fiberglass Dash Panel will be replaced with a period correct
Aluminum Acton Custom unit.
- Stewart Warner Guages will be replaced with OE Type Smith's Gauges from
Nisonger.
- Roll Bar will be replaced with a period correct Acton Custom Unit.
- Bolt on Wheels will be replaced with Vintage Wheel 15" Pin Drives and
Goodyear Billboards.

And.......... A host of other things as I go..

Progress may be sporadic but I've already got a good start.

Dennis Mosley · #2 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:22 PM

Sounds like a big project. Good luck and keep the pictures flowing so we can follow along.

Mike_I · #3 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:24 PM

Here she is. Jag IRS with 3.31 limited slip. She needs some cleaning up but should work out nice.

Mike_I · #4 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:38 PM

Pulled her out of the cage and made some make shift brackets to mount it on a transmission jack. This will allow me to adjust the pinion angle and put her up under the car for welding.

Mike_I · #5 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:41 PM

Got the Jag Diff mounted on the jack and pulled out the Ford 9"

Note the twist handle on the transmission jack. This will be perfect to adjust the pinion angle of the diff prior to final welding.

Don't worry, all you OCD/ADHD

people like myself. After welding and assembly the car will be torn down and I will clean and paint everything. Just don't wanna do it now and get it all scratched up during the build.

Mike_I · #6 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:44 PM

The 9" is outta there...

Mike_I · #7 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:52 PM

This is what I have to work with. I will need to add 2 cross members on the frame. One to mount the top of the diff and the other to anchor the front. If you look closely, you can see that the Midstates frame is very similar to the contemporary. Midstates just had a Ford 9" instead of a Jag IRS. "Had" is the keyword.

john chesnut · #8 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 06:57 PM

Good Luck with your project Mike. IF you need seats I have 2 leather seats that I purchased new from Shell Valley/Mid States. They have never been installed, are in perfect condition and have been stored in my house. (no cold storage) I am looking for $990 for the pair. John

Mike_I · #9 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 07:05 PM

Now waiting on the axles to get narrowed for the Jag IRS.

My new Acton Custom roll bar is lurking in the corner. It keeps looking at me in a weird kind of way every time I walk by it. Sooo, let's get er done..

Got her in @ a 10deg rake as per Nick's dimensions. She looks great.

I spent quite a bit of my time "and of nick's too"

getting the rake and angle as close to an original shelby as I could. I'll probably have to pay his cell phone bill for the month. Anyway, she's pretty close.... Whew, where's the Tylenol.

Thanks Nick, what a nice piece. Your work is 2nd to none.

Mike_I · #10 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 07:38 PM

WOW, If anyone of you ever wants an accurate dash Acton Custom can deliver.

At first, I was considering making a dash panel myself. I mean, how hard could it be cutting some holes in a flat peice of aluminim?

All I can say is that this is sooooo, much more than a flat piece of Aluminum. The corners are rolled and shrunk, the steering hole is hammered just as original, gauge holes are perfectly cut out using Nick's state of the art Nuclear powered

titanium plasma cutter.

Seriously, this is so much more than a flat piece of aluminum with holes in it. It's all in the details.... My crappy Iphone pics don't do this thing justice. This will make the car stand out and look like an OEM shelby if this what you're after..

Thanks Again Nick..

Mike_I · #11 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 07:56 PM

Just test fit one on the front. These things look great.. Thanks for the Awesome wheels Bob!

BILLBOARDS.... These things are HUGE!

Awesome Looking too.

I'm going to have to narrow up the front of the car some kind of way.. I'd like to get them under the fenders a little deeper. The midstates has a pretty wide mustang II front end.

Mike_I · #12 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 07:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john chesnut

Good Luck with your project Mike. IF you need seats I have 2 leather seats that I purchased new from Shell Valley/Mid States. They have never been installed, are in perfect condition and have been stored in my house. (no cold storage) I am looking for $990 for the pair. John

Thanks John, I'll keep that in mind. I may be looking for some in the future.

-MIke

Mike_I · #13 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 08:04 PM

Test Fitting the 15" OEM style split wheel and kirkham scratch and dent sale steering column and hub. Man this stuff really makes a huge difference. Transformation from Kit to "Almost" Real.

I also have the OEM Beetle blinker stalk to go with all this.

Again, my goal is a very accurate reproduction of an Original Shelby car. I know there will still be some differences but it should end up looking really close.

-Mike

rustyBob · #14 (**permalink**) 05-15-2011, 09:47 PM

WOW Mike you have been busy....all those changes look good....Bob K i think would approve of your changes....i noticed a lot of differences between your Midstates and mine(2001)....you may be able to use the 1inch narrower control arms on the front to bring the front wheels in under the body...it is looking good, keep up the good work.

Mike_I · #15 (**permalink**) 05-16-2011, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustyBob

you may be able to use the 1inch narrower control arms on the front to bring the front wheels in under the body...it is looking good, keep up the good work.

Thanks for the comments Bob. As far as the 1" narrower front mustang II stuff goes, I cannot find anyone makes the narrower front arms that still utilizes the strut rod. I will keep looking though and figure out something.

Thanks, Mike

RON N BKFLD · #16 (**permalink**) 05-16-2011, 05:31 PM

Mike,,,,,,,I sent you an email.......Ron

RON N BKFLD · #17 (**permalink**) 05-16-2011, 05:44 PM

Thanks Mike,,,,,,Ron

rustyBob · #18 (**permalink**) 05-16-2011, 08:47 PM

You can do away with the strut rods.....its easy to do..

Mike_I · #19 (**permalink**) 05-17-2011, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustyBob

You can do away with the strut rods.....its easy to do..

Hmmm, I don't think it would be very easy on mine. I have the 4" round tube frame. The front lower arms are anchored in front of and inboard of the frame rails. So, if you converted over to a lower arm that had two inboard mounting points the rear one would have to be signifigantly shorter. Make sense? Am I missing something?

rustyBob · #20 (**permalink**) 05-17-2011, 08:40 AM

can you post a pic. of what you have.....
if you have the stock lower control arms with the strut rod the the lower arm mounts inside of a channel in the frame...correct
the strut rod eliminator arms mount on the outside of the channel in the frame and you add a longer bolt and a piece of thick wall tubeing on the inside of that channel (weld it in) and then you remove the strut rod....