exhaust tube connection

[jojoegen]

Hi,I have a shell Valley 427 with slip on exhaust tubes.I want to cut the tubes in half(at the slip joint) and use 2 flat 4 tube connector to stop the tubes from leaking.Does anyone know who makes them? Thanx

[marco454v8]

Hi Joe,
Finishline do them along with the gaskets: Finish Line Accessories

But why not try sealing them with hi temp silicone? What are the symptoms? Popping in sidepipes I guess?
I need to do mine, I used hi temp copper grease, was OK at first but I think it's all gone now!
Mark

[jojoegen]

Hi Marco.the bracket that attached the side pipe fell off.When I checked the side pipe it has alot of movement up and down so I saw the connection to the tubes at slip joint really loose.The guy that assembled the car put a screw through the slip joint so it won't slide off.Has to be a better way.Also thought of the spring connection holding parts together also allowing some movement at the slip joint so it won't crack from stress.Don't know.Also a leak at this joint won't help engine compartment heat which I had a problem with.NEED HELP,JOHN

[FUNFER2]

I assume you mean these ? (I hate the slip on type also)



For these-



More photo's-

Gilmore Side Pipe Kit pictures by 427HISS - Photobucket

[jojoegen]

Hi Funfer,exactly.Did u replace the old ones with the kit in the picture?Are they for 427 ford in a cobra?What is the strap looking thing in the left center just below the side pipe turn down end?

[FUNFER2]

Yes, I replaced the @hitty originals.

A friend and I make these after the stock mild steel & ceramic coating dulled to no polish, after only four years. The glass pack blew out after three years, so when it came time to replace the exhaust, we wanted something to last much longer and be nice looking.

The kit is all highly polished 304 stainless steel, which will never rust and is easier to polish than a ceramic coating. It had no glass pack to burn out or mounting tabs inside to rattle loose. Ours is pressed into place. The muffler (as pictured) has louvers to quite the sound and has no restrictions to take TQ & HP away.

All you need is to make or buy the four hole primaries flange/plate's. The reason we don't supply them is because every cobra manufacture and header builder are different. Just about every custom exhaust business can make these for you. You'll need a total of four. What are your primaries tube size ? 1-5/8, 1-7/8 or 2" ?

A small block should be 1-5/8" or better yet, the 1-7/8".
A big block 2".

Look at the details of our kit. The collector's and turn outs slide in-between the inner & outer muffler sleeve, for a clean tight fit and requires only a small tig weld.

The "strap" you mentioned,... are the rear hangers. The strap end is to be welded under the muffler, and the other end will weld or bolt up,... under the car to the frame or any other bracket. One done, you can hardly see the hangers. All of the parts are top-notch, nothing cheap here and should last for many,.....years, possibly the life of the car. Mine and others are now 7 years old with no issues, try that with mild steel and any coatings.

These are expensive at $2,200, but you always get what you pay for in life. I checked out a company that is selling a pair for cobras, for around $1,400, but they use a much lower quality stainless steel and don't know what they use for a muffler. I'll give you my word, that I only make $200 per set. It's not for the money, but the beautiful appearance and sound they make. The stainless has a much deeper tone than mild steel.

The stars & points that you see on my photo bucket page, are welded together and then welded in-between the primaries to direct flow into the collectors, creating a pulling vortex, and expelling the exhaust. They work great.

Click on & listen to the video link below. I made this video only, for the buyer of my 428 FE, but you can here what our pipes sound like. Awesome.... lol

Watch others on my youtube page for idling & cruise sounds also.

For buyer of my engine #7 - YouTube
(no traction & feathering the throttle all the way, = Fun !



Very,....restrictive mufflers on some poor guys cobra's exhaust. What the Bloody-Hell ?


Ours- (can you say baseball)


Collector slides in-between muffler housings-


Points & Stars welded together to direst flow-


I used filler rod to smooth out the weld and polished it. I left the collector weld as is, so people can see the difference. Some like seeing a great weld.


Finished-

[jojoegen]

Funfer,they are gorgeous and sound great.Mine are brand new at this point with about 1 hr. run time.As things will have it on a new cobra as u know ,I am working the bugs out.My primeries are 2".How much are the rear straps?Can they be bolted to the frame sideways?in other words the bolts go in from the outter side of the frame and the nuts are on the inner side of the frame.The others where clamp straps and bolted from the under side of the frame up which means u can't use a nut. John

[FUNFER2]

Thank you.
Yes, the straps are intended to be welded or bolted to any point you want, and are very adjustable. The tong end (that goes under the car) can also be bent to match up to the mounting point. That way, you can un-bolt at either the muffler or under the car. I'll try to take a close up photo tomorrow of the hanger, so it's easier to understand.

[jojoegen]

looking forward to it,thanx.

[jojoegen]

Funfer,I have another person interested in the pipes.Hows the pic. comming.Need straps like yesterday.Can't wait to see how the pipes go on..,John

[FUNFER2]

Hey John,
give me a call anytime. 402-781-2322 or pm me with your number.

Since I have my engine out, I can't show how the hangers mount to the muffler sleeve then to the frame, but this pic shows what they look like. The triangle end welds to the muffler and the tongue to the frame.

The triangle has the curved mount to conform the the muffler shape and weld in place. It also shows the bolts that makes it adjustable for positioning and if you want to remove the side pipe. We use lock-nuts so they won't vibrate loose.

We leave the tongue extra long for a custom fit under your cobra. Loosen the bolts and the tongue moves to the angle you need. If needed, you can also bend it a little more positive or negative to match where you will weld, or drill holes & use bolts to the frame or any solid bracket. You might add some rubber type material between the mounting surface and the tongue for some vibration control.

I don't think you'll find a better & cleaner way to mount your side pipes. Once mounted, you can hardly see them. We engineered the entire system with a lot of forethought in functioning properly, longevity and great looks.