289 Plans Build

[LMH]

The front leaf spring connects to the upright trunnion. It's screwed on the upright and allows the upright to turn. This isn't my setup but does illustrate the suspension well.



Larry

[Three Peaks]

Thanks, great pic of the suspension set up. Does the rear connect the same way?

Bob

[LMH]

Yes, basically except the rear uses a hub carrier for the drive axle. As with the front, the spring acts as the upper link of the suspension.
This one doesn't have the spring in place but you get the idea. This frame is being modified for a coupe body, so it's not all there at the time of the photo.




Larry

[1795]

Here are some photos from my build showing the rear suspension of a leaf spring from a couple of different angles with the jag differential installed.



The leaf spring suspension handles real nice in the corners.

Jim

[Three Peaks]

Great pictures. This should be especially helpful to the OP in his build compared to what little my 427 build pictures were.

Bob

[MAStuart]

They connect to the front uprights with a special thru bolt. There is no upper ball joint. The upper swivels on a bronze thread on the bracket that is threaded to the top part of the upright. in Larrys pictures

[120mm]

Those ARE amazing pictures. I contacted Gerry last night, and he has just about everything you need of the leaf spring specific cars, including pre-made leaf packs.

I can probably find it out myself with about 30 seconds of Google, but are the stub axles the same on 289 and 427 cars? Seems to me I've seen enough pics of 427 cars with FIA front wheels that it should be the same.

[MAStuart]

There is more than one length of front stub axles. There is also several front and rear hubs .

[MAStuart]

Larry can you see any forging marks on your front hubs? Or are they 100% machined? I looked into getting some hubs forged from 4130 and having them heat treated. Forgings would cost about the same as 4130 barstock. There would be a lot less machining with the forgings.

[MAStuart]

I just checked my quote. Front hub forged blanks $280 each rears were 360 each. If I ordered more of them the price would get better.

[LMH]

Originally Posted by MAStuart

Larry can you see any forging marks on your front hubs? Or are they 100% machined? I looked into getting some hubs forged from 4130 and having them heat treated. Forgings would cost about the same as 4130 barstock. There would be a lot less machining with the forgings.

I’ll look this evening to be sure but I think they’re 100% machined.
Larry

[MAStuart]

Thanks Larry if there 100% machined they will be hard to tell if the are forged or not.

Mark

[120mm]

For you scratchbuilders, where did you find 3"x.125 tubing of the correct length? The longest I've found online is 96", which is a couple inches too short.

[Three Peaks]

Find a metal distributor in your area. You should be able to get tubing in any length you need and probably cut to length.

Try a couple of these guys-
https://www.yellowpages.com/des-moin...ors-warehouses

[120mm]

Originally Posted by Three Peaks

Find a metal distributor in your area. You should be able to get tubing in any length you need and probably cut to length.

Try a couple of these guys-
https://www.yellowpages.com/des-moin...ors-warehouses

Ugh...

Searching for anything but mild steel angle in Central Iowa sucks. Most of those places look at you like you have a penis sticking out of your forehead and try to make you feel stupid for having asked.

I love Iowa. I do. But if you do something anything near out of the ordinary, it's a struggle to find someone who's even ever heard of it.

"Yew want tube steel to do wut? What are you... sum kinda FREAK?!?! Why kent you buy a Camaro/Mustang like a NORMAL person?"

[MAStuart]

Go find a good welding or fab shop in your area. They should be able to get you anything you need. Tubing comes in 20 to 24 foot sticks. Normal tubing will be a bunch cheaper than DOM tubing. Not sure if you will find tubing in .125 wall. 11 gage tubing (.120 wall) is easy to find.

[Three Peaks]

Just go in or call and act like you know what you're doing, even if you don't. Always works for me... many distributors will only do business with business accounts so be prepared to give them a business name and tell you'll pay cash or credit, whatever their office will handle.

Tell them you're looking for 3" .120 wall ERW (welded) tubing, or if you want something a bit stronger, ask for DOM. (not sure it is really any stronger, but I've been told it is). Depending on what your plans call for, it may just be cheaper to just buy 2- 20' sticks than to have it cut up. If you can get it delivered that works fine. However, if you don't have a means to haul 20'material, you may have to have it cut to lengths you need to get it in your truck. You'll usually incur a small charge for the cuts, but not much.

Welding shops and job shops will also sell you steel, but there is usually a pretty large mark up in my experience.

If you can find a small steel yard in your area that handles small quantities, they are usually easier to deal with and are cheaper. Also, they will many times have "drops" (scrap cut offs) that they will sell for scrap prices- usually by the pound. You'll need lots of these pieces by time you get done so get friendly with a couple metal job shops. Most of them have an area where they put their drops and you can rummage through them for the pieces you need. Also, you will need some pieces bent or fabricated by time you're done and job shops usually have a fairly large metal break available for these chores.

I always thought the visits to the metal yards was half the fun of the build.

Bob

[LMH]

Originally Posted by MAStuart

Larry can you see any forging marks on your front hubs? Or are they 100% machined? I looked into getting some hubs forged from 4130 and having them heat treated. Forgings would cost about the same as 4130 barstock. There would be a lot less machining with the forgings.

They are totally machined, inside and out. Gerry did beautiful machine work on them! Kind of hate to get them dirty!



Larry

[1795]

A pice of art Larry!

[MAStuart]

Nice Larry . I think yours take the short stub axles because of where the hole is for the cotter pin. I guess I didn't know you were going with wire wheels. The longer stub axles move the outer bearing out further and you install the cotter pin from the end.