Bellhousing clearance?

[Three Peaks]

Of course, most of you guys aren't running a small block so this might not apply-

I put my engine block, Lakewood bellhousing, and transmission on my motor mounts a few days ago to check clearances and fab up my transmission mounts. My bellhousing/scattershield was WAAAYYYY interfering with my frame at the starter location. I checked my regular aluminum OEM bellhousing and just little bit of the edge would have had to be ground off, but the Lakewood needed a big hunk cut out to make it fit around the frame at that point.
I thought I was doing something wrong, but checking the other clearances, my oil pan hangs just about 1/4" below the frame rails and everything else seems to line up perfectly.

Has anyone else had this wonderful experience (hacking up an expensive part to fit?) and how did you handle this particular problem? Am I doing something wrong? (stupid question- I'm building a Cobra for gosh sakes!) -

Do I need more clearance? Bob

[Guinness]

Cut away! Lakewood scattershields for FEs must be trimmed to fit original style frames, so I'm not surprised to see similar clearance issues in small block applications. I'm sure someone on CC has a small block Lakewood trim template.
Good luck,
Jeff

[strictlypersonl]

I "threw" an engine plate (our GT, intended for use with a GT40 Aviaid pan) onto a set of 289 chassis rails. 8" from crank centerline to the bottom of the chassis. Ooo, that's close. And I'm pretty sure that the 427 engine was offset a bit to the starter side, unlike the layout shown below.

[niles]

I wore out 2 cutting wheel on the 4in grinder before my Lakewood would fit into my Hunter with a Cleveland.
Grind away, just keep the extinguisher handy.
gn

[Three Peaks]

I used a sawsall and a portaband saw to make most of the cuts and dressed it up with the 4" grinder. I was just surpised how much I needed to take out.
In fact, it fits so tight to the frame now it looks like it was scribed to it. I think I need to remove about 1/4" more all the way around the frame contact. At least the starter will fill the gap left. I think I need to grind just a tiny bit off the edge of the starter case to fit it all in.

Thanks guys, at least I'm on the right track- Bob

[Dominik]

Hi,

to inatall a 460 with Lakewood we took a 2" round bar heated the chassis at the right place and hit it with all we had (after warming up) and space is still not enough for rubber mounts...

the lower starter bolt has to be a capscrew, just to explain how close it is.

I strongly advise NOT to use a 460... - and it is not even offset to the right either.

dominik

[RACER X #99]

Cut and notch the frame, if done properly and welded by a compent welder it is just as strong as the original frame. I would not grind down a safety bellhousing, might just as well use an original aluminum one.
The FIA contemporary cars use a SC frame and it came notched from the factory.

RD

[niles]

#99
Cant let that one go. Grinding the flange area of a Lakewood does "nothing" to it's ability to stop the granading clutch or wheel.
The scrapnel path is at the center of rotatal mass, probably near the center of the bell section. 1/4 hi-ten steel absorbs probably 20-50 times more energy that a stock piece of alum pot metal. If you have ever looked into the physics it is scary; at 6000rpm the radial velocity is over a 1000 fps. An exploding 30 lb wheel/clutch assy will produc several pounds fragments going faster than a 22 cal bullet. Now tell me cal would you rather have a piece of pot metal or a 1/4 piece of ballistic steel between the fragments and your leg. This is a capital no brainer.
I don't know were the Contemporary frame comes into the discussion of a scratch built frame. Moding or notching the frame is fine; discarding the protection of a scatter shield is foolish.
gn