Body

Alex Evonosky · #1 (**permalink**) 02-21-2006, 07:08 AM

All body issues and discussion

Alex Evonosky · #2 (**permalink**) 02-24-2006, 06:22 AM

Does anyone have the windshield placement measurement: say from the center of the body, from the dash side to the windshield.

Thank you,

grumpy · #3 (**permalink**) 02-24-2006, 07:00 AM

Alex,
I'm sure you know the points to fix the dimension you are looking for, but not enough info to give more than a guesstimate.
grumpy

Alex Evonosky · #4 (**permalink**) 02-24-2006, 07:54 AM

Grumpy,
Yea, a guesstimate will be fine. Just kinda wanted to know about how much room you should have on top of the dash.
As always, when you are looking for a cobra to measure, there are none to be found.
Thank you,

mickmate · #5 (**permalink**) 02-26-2006, 08:52 PM

Hey Alex I measured my windscreen location for ya. It is 8.5" from the corner of the body above the door to the corner of the post cutout. It is 2.75" if you measure the other post hole corner in a straight line to the edge of the body. If you can't figure that out let me know.

Three Peaks · #6 (**permalink**) 02-26-2006, 10:20 PM

I used an 18" long "bell hanger" drill bit and a drill and drilled a locating hole from below by laying the bit flat on the windshield mounting bracket at the proper angle with the body in place. Worked like a charm and my windshield posts fit perfectly.

Alex Evonosky · #7 (**permalink**) 02-27-2006, 10:10 AM

Bob,
Thanks, That will work well.

Nice to see you back, was wonderind where you were. Thought you might be out smoking the tires your car. LOL

I actually have just about finished my rear setup. First time was a test for the 4 link but didn't work out like I thought. Had to change from 4 link to 3 link design. Working out pretty sweet with the quick change and all.

Thanks again,

Three Peaks · #8 (**permalink**) 02-27-2006, 11:39 AM

Alex,

Been fabbing the rear suspension pieces. Just about got them done- hope they work.
After the crash of the site, I couldn't sign in for a couple weeks. The site wouldn't accept my sign in info, email addy, or anything. They must have been talking to my wife or something!

Any more pics of you progress?

Take care, Bob

'65 Cobra · #9 (**permalink**) 03-20-2006, 09:36 AM

Just curious if it was used by any scratch builder?

mickmate · #10 (**permalink**) 03-20-2006, 11:52 AM

You got a cheap one for me

Their body has the birdcage attached which is alot of the structure on these things. Other than price no reason why not. I bought my prints from a bloke that was going to have the frame built for a Kirkham body he had.

Dominik · #11 (**permalink**) 03-30-2006, 03:17 AM

for measurements like your wiper holes I found the ERA website very helpful!
those guys actually deserve a free beer on any meeting for that :-)

www.erareplicas.com

dominik

stephen_canada · #12 (**permalink**) 05-22-2006, 08:47 AM

I googled "cobra bodies" and on the bottom of the second page was this link:

http://www.unijig.com/cobra.htm

It's a 289 body. I thought I'd share it with anyone who's interested.

mickmate · #13 (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 08:23 PM

Hey Dave lets talk body mounting here. I was looking at riveting through from the inside lips of hood, trunk etc to the birdcage. Some guys are talking bonding the body to the frame (West system epoxy?). I guess the trick is wriggling these bodies over a birdcage. What are you thinking?

elgecko · #14 (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 08:49 PM

I've had the body off and on several times now trying to line things up.
Question........how many times am I going to take the body off after Cobra is completed??? An insulating adhesive would seem to be fine between body and birdcage with somekind of riveting maybe under rocker panels.
I just don't see me taking body off once done........but.
Dave

mickmate · #15 (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 08:53 PM

I know with this type of build and body there's plenty of practice. I just figured at some point I would take a deep breath and commit to it being a car and attached together. I just started chuckling to myself when I realised why you're using stainless rivets!

elgecko · #16 (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 09:05 PM

It's ashame to cover all that stainless work. Maybe I'll need to check about a clear lexan Cobra body! Cool

Dominik · #17 (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 10:01 PM

hi!

as specialk pointed out before, the body will be attached to the birdcage via the inner lips. No tubing is supposed to touch visible painted surface. It will result in spider webs in the paint.

I used self tapper screws to fit the body to the chassis, although I never intend to take it off again. There is really no reason, but I know what you think. What if I have to take it off? Well, "unrivet" it :-)

reason was another: the birdcage on the first car lined up so badly, that I had gaps to fill up to 3/8" wide :-(
we made the bridcage without having the body... - and once it arrived I saw the problem.
that's why I used screws instead of rivets.

BTW, I made a bolt-on radiator frame to help mounting the body with less stress. A former CAV man told me they managed to pull it on like a shoe without the bolt-on version...

dominik

elgecko · #18 (**permalink**) 09-28-2006, 04:43 PM

Velcro

nevermind65 · #19 (**permalink**) 09-30-2006, 07:20 AM

Hello,

I'm not a bodyman by any means, so this may sound like a dumb question.

The fiberglass body on my car has a twist near the rear quarter panel. Is there any way to heat the fiberglass and bend it?

Thanks,

Ron

elgecko · #20 (**permalink**) 09-30-2006, 10:33 AM

I have to agree with you......that was an unusual question

Just joking with ya.
Afraid I've never heard of heating fiberglass.
You might be able to grind the thickness down and "bend" it into shape and then re-fiberglass it from the inside to maintain its "new" shape.
Hard to tell without photos.
Dave