Oh I love it when people get to express their opinions. Yes crash intrusion sucks but I was going more for the latter and the solid door theory. Oh and yes I will be adding two anti intrusion pins one on the bottom and one behind the hinge to keep the door in place. You will just have to keep watching to see whats next.
Joey, there may be a book in the future but not in time for your build, I will have to tutor you personally. Any way I'm in need of more popcorn so keep guessing what I will do next. Patrick
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 S/C 427 FE S.O. 484 cu in
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterpatrick
Oh I love it when people get to express their opinions. Yes crash intrusion sucks but I was going more for the latter and the solid door theory. Oh and yes I will be adding two anti intrusion pins one on the bottom and one behind the hinge to keep the door in place. You will just have to keep watching to see whats next.
Joey, there may be a book in the future but not in time for your build, I will have to tutor you personally. Any way I'm in need of more popcorn so keep guessing what I will do next.:LOL: Patrick
When the guy on the Segway T-Bones you, watch out for the flying tofu and bean sprout sandwich.
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Tropical Buzz
Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the strength to change the things I can, and the wisdom to know the difference. -(wasn't me)
I'm stoking the fire here, if you haven't noticed I love people who stand up for themselves. So here is more wood to the fire. I've added the afore mentioned door pins, and they do not bind HA.
There you go now I'm going to get a cold beverage and wait and see what everyone thinks now. I think that will help keep the door out of my lap. Patrick
good idea but it looks like a lign up nightmare in the future...after the door sags a bit...or i could be wrong i mean, i'm not the one that works for NASA.
it will keep the door out of your lap though...
going to get some popcorn...
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Cobra Make, Engine: RHD Hurricane street roadster HM1081 aging nicely in the garage
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Looks like a winner but are any leg parts going to drag on the bottom pin fixture when you slide into the car?
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aka Fuzzy ............... "It is not the return ON my investment that I am concerned about; it is the return OF my investment".......from Will Rogers
Ken, pins are a mere 3/4" tall and well rounded, metal tab is under sill level so they will barely stick up enough to catch. Yes I didn't want to catch my leg on them so I had to work with some small parts,did most of the fitting with the shell on took it off to tack them in.
Joey, What door sag you think my doors will sag. I left room to adjust the pins, put everything toghether with tight tolerences and can loosen them up later. Hey I'm not looking foward to 100 plus degree temps down there I'm hangin out Vegas way Thur. through Sun. this week. So you think you could turn on the airconditioner so I don't melt.
LOL, when I think of door sag, I have flashbacks to the 70's/early 80's GM two door cars. You know, the door is a mile long, weighs two tons, and requires jato assist in order to get it shut after the sag set's in!
Well I've had problems with my build but this was like herding cats. standard swing hinges just didn't put the lid in a good spot given the location of the roll bar. So I came up with these I spent way to much time doing this.
Now they will need some final tuning but they should give me the desired effect.
So with that said I move on to the Hood ;Patrick
Last edited by fasterpatrick; 12-03-2007 at 09:00 PM..
LOL, when I think of door sag, I have flashbacks to the 70's/early 80's GM two door cars. You know, the door is a mile long, weighs two tons, and requires jato assist in order to get it shut after the sag set's in!
Quite true!!...but I found on those GM cars that once the "sag" set in, they
generally did not sag much more and once you reshimmed the doors back into
proper alignment, they didn't give much trouble. The only problem was that
reshimming the doors to get proper closure without jato assist would often
mess up the gaps so you would have good closure but gaps weren't right and
treating uneven door gaps can be very time consuming!
Quite true!!...but I found on those GM cars that once the "sag" set in, they
generally did not sag much more and once you reshimmed the doors back into
proper alignment, they didn't give much trouble. The only problem was that
reshimming the doors to get proper closure without jato assist would often
mess up the gaps so you would have good closure but gaps weren't right and
treating uneven door gaps can be very time consuming!
....Fred
Everyone here in my neck of the woods is too dang lazy to re-shim their doors!
Well cross hood hinges and latch off the list. This wasn't as difficult as the trunk as I found some usable (with modifications of course) hinges at the junkyard. and a tailgate latch from a wagon. I am still proud to say that I have not needed to use a GM piece in my build. Just need to make a Popper system to allow me to grab the hood to open it, after hitting the latch release.
Now I have three things left to do and the mock up will be complete, E-brake handle, brake and clutch reservoirs, and windshield. Patrick
Last edited by fasterpatrick; 12-03-2007 at 09:03 PM..
Cobra Make, Engine: A CSX Cobra,1966 GT350 and an '06 Ford Heritage GT
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Excellent work, Patrick! I would like to ask a couple of builder questions, though. I read thru the posts and saw you were using 1025 dom @ .095 with 1" for the birdcage, but what diameter did you use on the control arms? Also, what brand of megabuck tubing bender did you buy, and what feedback would you give on it? Thanks.
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Well, The tube for the control arms is the same 1025 dom but 1.25" dia with machined weld in threaded inserts for the hiems and collars for the ball joints.
The tube bender is EZ-bend 90 degree tubing bender from midamerican equipment and supplies.
The whole works with dies set me back about $800. works real good but takes a little practice so budget in some extra stock. As for the swoopy bends I built my own roll type bender.
kristallmighty...even your proprod is like..1/2" roundstock..
tornado proof.
looking good tho..hows the manual coming along?
another thing..I'm having serious concerns over that fuzzy body..kinda see through. does it flex much?
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"Me fodder was King Neptune, me mudder was a mermaid. I was born on the crest of a wave and rocked in the cradle of the deep. Me hair is like hemp, me arms are like spars. When I spits, I spits tar. I'm hard, I am, I is, I are. "
Well I've got three pictures here can you guess what it signifies?
Now, I've officially ran out of major components to mount to the chassis. and will have to break this mock-up down and completely finish weld it and then make all the body mods, mounts, and fiberglass pieces fit. I will post up some pics of the chassis naked before break down. Patrick
Last edited by fasterpatrick; 12-03-2007 at 09:07 PM..
Cobra Make, Engine: A CSX Cobra,1966 GT350 and an '06 Ford Heritage GT
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Very, Very nice. Looks very good and the initial alignment looks pretty well spot on. One small suggestion, consider enclosing the area around the driveshaft in metal (16 ga?) as extra insurance against driveshaft failure. I REALLY like the bolt in subframe around the trans. I have to file that away in memory for a 'next update' on my car.
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"I think we have more machinery of government than is necessary, too many parasites living on the labor of the industrious." Thomas Jefferson