CSX4158 For Sale, but Salvage due to Flood - Page 8

snakehunter · #**141** (**permalink**) 03-10-2010, 09:49 AM

great thanks! Please do send everything over and I'll crunch the numbers. I doubt the program is really high tech - i need to get something newer, but it does seem accurate when I compare it to real world numbers

Bernica · #**142** (**permalink**) 03-10-2010, 09:54 AM

Found the file, but this system won't let me upload it here. Sent you a PM.

RodKnock · #**143** (**permalink**) 03-10-2010, 10:22 AM

I'm not sure why they would number them, if they didn't keep track of them. You would have to in order to not repeat numbers.

I have CSX #931 in my car. FWIW.

ACademic · #**144** (**permalink**) 12-17-2010, 09:05 AM

Paging snakehunter. Would love to hear from you and see what progress was made on this one. Not sure why it fell well under the radar??? It was an interesting rebuild effort (much like the Ironman Kirkham).

snakehunter · #**145** (**permalink**) 12-22-2010, 05:17 PM

Sorry for not posting in such a long while, I got sidetracked with another project, and spent a lot of time digging up parts, waiting on engine machine work, etc.
I'm still working on the car - hopefully I'll have some time over christmas to post more pics and updates. It will be going back together around the 1st of the year.
Thanks for asking!

madmaxx · #**146** (**permalink**) 12-22-2010, 06:03 PM

Yea, please post, i loved all the pictures I hope you took some during the rebuild!!!!! Thanks for sharing.

Excaliber · #**147** (**permalink**) 12-22-2010, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Optimistic dyno numbers? People do that???

I wouldn't know, but rumor has it...

My iron block with iron High Riser heads, BIG dual fours and a WAY radical solid roller cam dynoed at 667 horse. 12.5 to 1 compression, tires that couldn't be tamed. The numbers and the chart that came with the car looked legit, who knows. It was dynoed a second time with the side pipes in place and it lost 97 horse power! All I know,,, that motor made didn't make much power until it hit 3,000 rpm and then it went to 7,000 in a freakin' heart beat.

On the street? Take two aspiran before attempting to drive, it was an over the top beast of a ride that got 6 mpg on a good day and would shake you to the core.

NFLDMNBB · #**148** (**permalink**) 12-23-2010, 08:12 AM

How about this - SNKTRES

Roger

snakehunter · #**149** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:01 AM

Anyone interested in an update? I've been really slow about getting this car back together, but its coming along. I'll start where we left off

snakehunter · #**150** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:19 AM

I need to sort these pics better...

Here's the short block going back together. At first the machine shop thought the crank would clean up with a polish (it was already 10-10 from the previous build). It mic'd ok, but when I installed it in the block with Clevite bearings, it just wasn't smooth enough. Sent the block and crank back, they re checked the block and said it was still fine, but went ahead and turned the crank 20-20 and installed King bearings. Much better fit.

Pistons installed, cam degreed, etc. We chose a Schneider ground hydraulic flat tappet cam - 290/300 duration, .525 lift (230/240 at .050). Admittedly its on the mild side, but we wanted a streetable motor that will be fun to drive, not an uncontrollable beast.

snakehunter · #**151** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:23 AM

We're going with a 1965 appearance where possible. Thanks to Tim Mason for the fuel canister, lines and fittings, Carl's Ford for Lemans bowls and transfer tube, and Chris's Carb shop in Dayton, Oh for plating the 850 DP body, metering blocks and hardware to match the bowls.

The pvc plate and oil tank are courtesy of Mickmate. Other detail items were sourced as needed.

snakehunter · #**152** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:25 AM

wheels cleaned and new tires installed

snakehunter · #**153** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:41 AM

Chassis - LOTS of cleaning here... Frame tubes were inspected with a borescope and found to have no damage aside from some surface rust residue. Everything was flushed repeatedly until clean, then treated with Eastwoods Zinc primer, then topped with a parafin based undercoat that seals out any potential future moisture. Wish they'd done that from the factory!

Differential came out and looked great - just a hint of moisture but no corrosion

snakehunter · #**154** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:45 AM

more chassis - before and after. I'm thrilled how well everything cleaned up.

snakehunter · #**155** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:52 AM

more chassis...brakes rebuild with new seals and pads from Mike McCluskey. Anything that could be disassembled was pulled apart, cleaned and painted if necessary. Rotors were pulled off the hubs,turned and painted with hi temp paint, etc. Even replaced the special locknuts on the hub pins. you should see the hardware bill for this project!!

The old shocks were from Dynamic, an english company. Their quote to rebuild all 4 came close to what a brand new set of Penske's cost, so we upgraded the project a little. At the same time, I did the math on the Hyperco springs and estimated them to be 525lb front, 700lb rear. Not too many people are running that setup. So we went with new 450lb springs at all 4 corners.

snakehunter · #**156** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 09:54 AM

that's it for today...I'll be back with more after I clean up and label my picture files....

lovehamr · #**157** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 04:01 PM

SH, I'm still following you along. You're gonna have a great car when you're done.

Steve

mickmate · #**158** (**permalink**) 07-06-2011, 04:20 PM

Hey welcome back stranger. You have been productive with your time away from the computer I see. I was excited for you to see the inside of that rear end, and all the other stuff you've opened up is really looking good. I forgot that is a Girling car, some very nice hardware that's really coming right back into it. Your frame prepping comments hit home with me. I had chunks of the powdercoat coming off mine. When I stripped the frame, which happened a little too easily, you could see the frame number crayoned onto the frame tubes. That told me how well they (hadn't) prepared it for powder and that explains my decision to prep and paint it with chassis paint. Looking fantastic keep it up!

snakehunter · #**159** (**permalink**) 08-15-2011, 07:29 AM

vacation and some other more pressing items got in the way since my last post. As of today the engine is complete, running and ready to install aside from addressing a couple small issues.

For one, the fresh carb had major over-rich issues on startup. Checked everything several times and found no obvious issues, but the primaries were dumping fuel like showerheads.

Since I couldn't run it very long like that, we swapped to a spare carb and will send this one back to the carb shop. I bought the main body used and had it restored, but am afraid either it or the metering block has seen some race mods that we missed.

The backup carb worked great and the rest of break-in went great. Motor sounds awesome!

Here's our engine run-in stand adapted to work with the cobra radiator and oil cooler. BTW, Speedway's pre-fab FE crossmember is too narrow to clear the Aviad oil pan. I thought I'd save some time by buying vs. fabricating one, but ended up hacking and reinforcing Speedy Bill's piece...

here's an ironic twist - for giggles I tried to reuse the old MSD unit and a couple gauges on the test stand. The oil temp and fuel pressure gauges cleaned up and worked great, and would you believe the MSD worked like a champ after being underwater, caked in mud, and left to sit for over a year? Guess they're sealed pretty well from the factory!! Even the old Mallory electronic distributor guts tested ok, although we'd already purchased replacements for everything.

snakehunter · #**160** (**permalink**) 08-15-2011, 07:32 AM

the firewall panel was looking pretty tired, so a new one was made after taking a pattern off the old one.