A couple questions about my CSX4000

[d_ford]

Hi all, I was able to purchase a 4000 series with a few problems and I have some questions I hope you can help with.
I recently pulled the engine to be repaired and discovered that the fuel line had been burned/rusted in two. It appears to be a stratoflex design line with braided cloth exterior and steel braid on the inside. It apparently was routed too close to the primary header pipes and became brittle, actually breaking off in my hand when I moved it. It uses two lines from the tank to the mechanical pump so I assume it also has an electric pump in the tank and one is a return line.
Would this be original to the car? I would think SA would use something safer for the fuel lines. I plan to replace them but I would like to know if this type fuel line is correct?
Next, the oil cooler looks like it's never been plumbed or hooked up. My engine has a remote oil filter so I'm looking for a schematic to show how the hoses are routed so I can use the oil cooler.
The windshield is cracked and I need to replace it. Are all cobra windshields the same? Just wondering where would be my best source to get a replacement.
Thanks in advance.

[twobjshelbys]

Don't hook up the oil cooler unless you track the car. With the size of the radiator the engine is already over cooled. If you do hook it up put in a thermostat bypass

Any reason you're rebuilding the engine instead of just getting a new one? You have no idea what can of worms is in there. It sounds like the car was rode hard and put up wet and a rebuild that will discover and repair all the abuse it's seen will be as much as a new short block. And you won't be revisiting it again in two years

[twobjshelbys]

Get the windshield from Gesford machine. He has a parts business that I can't remember but if gou search here you'll find it. He supplies them to sai. Get the gasket too. And when disassembling the frame mark the screws and put them back where they came. Is yout current glass broken because a screw touched it from the side of the frame? Thyy can be a tad too long.

[Dwight]

You do not need the oil cooler.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by d_ford

Next, the oil cooler looks like it's never been plumbed or hooked up. My engine has a remote oil filter so I'm looking for a schematic to show how the hoses are routed so I can use the oil cooler.

As noted by twobjshelbys, you probably don't need the oil cooler unless you track the car. If you decide to use it then put in an oil thermostat so the oil can reach proper operating temperature before being routed to the cooler. Do you have an oil temperature gauge? If not, you may want to install one and monitor it before hooking up the cooler.

Note: Oil thermostats will allow some flow (around 10%) in order to be able to sense temperature. In cold weather this may be enough to prevent oil from reaching proper operating temperature - which may require you to cover the cooler.

Originally Posted by d_ford

The windshield is cracked and I need to replace it. Are all cobra windshields the same? Just wondering where would be my best source to get a replacement.

There s/b a label or codes printed on the bottom corner of the windshield. On mine it's on the passenger side. That label will indicate the manufacturer's name and windshield code. Take that to any competent windshield shop, or provide it to any supplier and they can cross-reference it to other manufacturers / model numbers.

This is what mine says:
VIRACON
LAMINATED
AS1 M-60 DOT 129

Viracon: This mark identifies the manufacturer, by their name and/or logo (“the manufacturer’s distinctive designation or trademark”).

LAMINATED: Laminated safety glass

AS1: Not ASI. The AS number stands for American Standard, and is “AS” (or “American Standard”) followed by a number indicating the position in which the glass may be used, based on its optical quality. AS1 is the clearest glass (at least 70% light transmission), is laminated, and can be used anywhere in a motor vehicle (typically just the windshield). I've also seen that AS1 indicates impact resistance.

M-60: "The M number is unique to the manufacturer, so an M number of M-60 by Viracon could well be different than glass labeled as M-60 by another manufacturer. It identifies the glass construction, including the color and thickness."

DOT 129: The DOT code (DOT number) is the letters “DOT” followed by a number that the Department of Transportation (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) assigns to the manufacturer of the glass. This is required by FMVSS205 section S6.2. If you have a DOT code, here's a page that lists all known DOT codes." DOT number search: https://www.glassbytes.com/dot/index.php

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Don't hook up the oil cooler unless you track the car. With the size of the radiator the engine is already over cooled. If you do hook it up put in a thermostat bypass

Any reason you're rebuilding the engine instead of just getting a new one? You have no idea what can of worms is in there. It sounds like the car was rode hard and put up wet and a rebuild that will discover and repair all the abuse it's seen will be as much as a new short block. And you won't be revisiting it again in two years

The engine in the car was the "born with" engine and the shelby alloy block was chosen specifically for the CSX part number which is a partial VIN match to the car. If it's possible to repair it, I want to. If it's so far damaged that it's unfeasable to repair and make it reliable I'll put a new short block in it. Barry R will let me know once he has it apart.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Get the windshield from Gesford machine. He has a parts business that I can't remember but if gou search here you'll find it. He supplies them to sai. Get the gasket too. And when disassembling the frame mark the screws and put them back where they came. Is yout current glass broken because a screw touched it from the side of the frame? Thyy can be a tad too long.

The glass broke from a screw touching it when the original owner added mirrors to the windshield frame. I removed them and will just go with the single dash mounted rear view mirror.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

As noted by twobjshelbys, you probably don't need the oil cooler unless you track the car. If you decide to use it then put in an oil thermostat so the oil can reach proper operating temperature before being routed to the cooler. Do you have an oil temperature gauge? If not, you may want to install one and monitor it before hooking up the cooler.

Note: Oil thermostats will allow some flow (around 10%) in order to be able to sense temperature. In cold weather this may be enough to prevent oil from reaching proper operating temperature - which may require you to cover the cooler.



There s/b a label or codes printed on the bottom corner of the windshield. On mine it's on the passenger side. That label will indicate the manufacturer's name and windshield code. Take that to any competent windshield shop, or provide it to any supplier and they can cross-reference it to other manufacturers / model numbers.

This is what mine says:
VIRACON
LAMINATED
AS1 M-60 DOT 129

Viracon: This mark identifies the manufacturer, by their name and/or logo (“the manufacturer’s distinctive designation or trademark”).

LAMINATED: Laminated safety glass

AS1: Not ASI. The AS number stands for American Standard, and is “AS” (or “American Standard”) followed by a number indicating the position in which the glass may be used, based on its optical quality. AS1 is the clearest glass (at least 70% light transmission), is laminated, and can be used anywhere in a motor vehicle (typically just the windshield). I've also seen that AS1 indicates impact resistance.

M-60: "The M number is unique to the manufacturer, so an M number of M-60 by Viracon could well be different than glass labeled as M-60 by another manufacturer. It identifies the glass construction, including the color and thickness."

DOT 129: The DOT code (DOT number) is the letters “DOT” followed by a number that the Department of Transportation (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration) assigns to the manufacturer of the glass. This is required by FMVSS205 section S6.2. If you have a DOT code, here's a page that lists all known DOT codes." DOT number search: https://www.glassbytes.com/dot/index.php

Thanks for the good info!

[d_ford]

Does anyone have any info about the "stratoflex" type braided hose used for fuel lines? I don't know if that was supplied by SA or the dealer, or if the original owner sourced it. If it's safe to use I'll replace the burned/brittle hose and re-route the line away from the exhaust.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by d_ford

The engine in the car was the "born with" engine and the shelby alloy block was chosen specifically for the CSX part number which is a partial VIN match to the car. If it's possible to repair it, I want to. If it's so far damaged that it's unfeasable to repair and make it reliable I'll put a new short block in it. Barry R will let me know once he has it apart.

What exactly happened to the engine?

[spdbrake]

Originally Posted by d_ford

Does anyone have any info about the "stratoflex" type braided hose used for fuel lines? I don't know if that was supplied by SA or the dealer, or if the original owner sourced it. If it's safe to use I'll replace the burned/brittle hose and re-route the line away from the exhaust.

Strat o flex is a Aerospace division of Parker. Typically you'll see them installed some where on about every aircraft flying. There is usually a metal band on the hose outer covering with the part number of the assembly etched on it. The PN can be broken down in the hose type, ID, length and end fittings. The hose end they use are MIL-SPEC and are reusable. You can rebuild what you have with new hose of the same construction and ID. It does not have to be the same brand.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by patrickt

What exactly happened to the engine?

I havent torn it down but it looks like a rod broke. There's a window on the passenger side and a crack on the drivers side along the pan rail.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

Strat o flex is a Aerospace division of Parker. Typically you'll see them installed some where on about every aircraft flying. There is usually a metal band on the hose outer covering with the part number of the assembly etched on it. The PN can be broken down in the hose type, ID, length and end fittings. The hose end they use are MIL-SPEC and are reusable. You can rebuild what you have with new hose of the same construction and ID. It does not have to be the same brand.

I called it stratoflex because I used to make hoses for the heavy truck industry with spin on fittings that were exactly like these. The hose I used to make were for oil lines and I had just never seen it used for fuel lines. I was concerned about how brittle the damaged line was although I'm sure it was due to being so close to the exhaust. I'm just trying to find out if it was a factory setup or not and if not, is it safe to use as fuel line.

[CompClassics]

The Strato-flex hose is the way the Continuation Cobras were equipped from SAI.

[d_ford]

Thank you. That answers my question. I'll replace the fuel line with another just like it and re-route it away from the exhaust.

[incoming]

Yikes on the engine. Sounds like a big boom. Just thinking out loud, if you broke down and bought a short or long block from SA, would/could they number the block to the car?

Just wondering?

[twobjshelbys]

A "matching numbers CSX4000"? Surely though jest.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by incoming

Yikes on the engine. Sounds like a big boom. Just thinking out loud, if you broke down and bought a short or long block from SA, would/could they number the block to the car?

Just wondering?

Good question. I don't know.

[d_ford]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

A "matching numbers CSX4000"? Surely though jest.

I don't know if it means anything or not. The original owner, that I got the car from seemed to think it was a big deal. The paperwork from KCR reflects the fact that the block was ordered with that number to partially match the VIN on the car. Maybe it's not worth saving, I don't know.

[patrickt]

Just go to a trophy store and have them engrave you a nice three inch by one inch aluminum plate that says Engine Serial #CSX-4000 and mount it on to the side of the block to one of the unused bosses. *poof* numbers are now matching.