Rear Shock Mount Torque Specs

[Matthewmi]

Hi, Does anyone know the proper torque specs for the rear shock top mounting bolt? It has a lock nut on one end.

And if anyone has a scan of an assembly manual for a 2007...
Thanks!

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Matthewmi

Hi, Does anyone know the proper torque specs for the rear shock top mounting bolt? It has a lock nut on one end.

And if anyone has a scan of an assembly manual for a 2007...
Thanks!

Coil-overs:





If you have stud-mount shocks:

How tight should the nut be on stud top shocks?

It’s important that the nut on stud top shocks are correctly tightened. If the nut is too tight, it can cause premature wear and binding in the suspension. If it’s too loose, there won’t be enough thread to install the jam nut, which could potentially cause the shock to fall out of place. We recommend that the nut on stud top shocks be tightened until the bushing is the same diameter as the steel washer. This will help to ensure all mounting hardware is tight enough to hold the shock in place.When tightening or loosening the nut, we do not recommend using an impact gun, as it has the potential to break the stud or unscrew the piston from the piston rod. The piston rod is machined with "flats" allowing it to be held with a wrench while tightening or loosening the nut.
https://www.qa1.net/technical-suppor...g-faqs#fifteen

[Matthewmi]

Thank you for the assistance!

[Sydney]

At least for a 2003 model with coil over shocks, SV says that the rear shocks and rear control arm bolts should be tightened to just snug and backed off 1/4 turn. This is to minimize any potential binding in suspension travel. Last year I developed some squeaks in the rear suspension travel so I replaced all of the rear shock and control arm bolts. I installed the new bolts with a little anti seize and followed those specs. Then made sure that i could twist the bolts a little when completed.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by Sydney

At least for a 2003 model with coil over shocks, SV says that the rear shocks and rear control arm bolts should be tightened to just snug and backed off 1/4 turn. This is to minimize any potential binding in suspension travel. Last year I developed some squeaks in the rear suspension travel so I replaced all of the rear shock and control arm bolts. I installed the new bolts with a little anti seize and followed those specs. Then made sure that i could twist the bolts a little when completed.

That makes sense, as long as those fasteners are Nyloc or some other self-locking nut, or have cotter pins to stop them from backing off.

[Sydney]

That makes sense, as long as those fasteners are Nyloc or some other self-locking nut, or have cotter pins to stop them from backing off.

Yep. I replaced the original Nyloc nuts with some distorted thread type lock nuts. I sleep better now.