|
Oil Change and jackstands
I have to admit, it's a pain to change the oil. You need the oil churned up to hold any metal and carbon bits in suspension, plus you need it hot to drain quickly.
So I come back from a run all prepared to change the oil. After that, it's probably close to two hours later I have the oil draining. Why? Because the oil drains from the front of my oil pan, I need the rear end of the car higher than the front. Plus I need the front raised up to get an oil catch pan underneath. I find I have to fiddle around with the jack quite a bit in the front to get it up on jackstands as the drop for the oil cooler limits access. The I need to use two jacks to get the rear raised. One on each side, just ahead of the rear wheels. Then there's the issue of the car falling back off the front jackstands while raising the back. One has to be very, very careful. Not counting a garage pit or hoist, does anyone have an easier method? I even thought of a pump down the dipstick hole like some boats require, but that never really gets it all out. |
Check my gallery, toward the back (pages 5-6). ~$250 in materials and a bunch of elbow grease. Have been using it for abut 5 years now without problems. I use ping pong balls hanging from the ceiling as my "gun sights" to line up with one of the hood latches for driving up straight without help. Maintenance is ALWAYS easy with this set-up.
-Dean |
I don't us them, but you could use ramps. My pan drains from the back so it's easy.
|
The body is too low to use ramps, plus ramps slip on concrete so I'd have to do it outside,....where things get lost and hyd jacks for raising the other end can sink into the grass or dirt and tip over.
Red....great idea, and nicely executed. I'm not going to do that, but you have given me a similiar idea. Sort of a teeter-totter that has a shallow incline. Drive up, tip it forward, drain the oil. I'd make it a little less professional looking than yours....something I could leave outside maybe, as room for storage is at a premium with me. Thanks for the replies guys. |
I recently bought a 64, work in progress.... I can't imagine ever owning this car without a hoist.... I bought the hoist before buying the car.... 2300 bucks delivered and installed and much safer than any ramps or stands....
|
LOL.....you havn't the appreciation for a hoist until you've swapped a transmission while lying on your back in the snow in 20 Deg below, February weather.
Yes, I'd love to have one. MIG welding while lying on your back isn't much fun either. |
noisy in overdrive, toploader
I am experiencing a loud rattle noise in overdrive. The noise travels right up the shifter. The trans is a RUG aluminum 66 to 68 era, as far as I have determined. The linkage is encased in a tubular shaft. I seldom have use for the OD but am a bit concerned about the noise. Any comments would be appreciated... Thx.
|
I warm the car up, jack up the front enough to loosen the plug (with a jack stands for protection while under it), then lower it so it just clears my big drain pan (no jack stand), pull the plug and let it drain...when it starts dripping, I swap out a shallow pan for the big pan, lower the front and (sometimes) move the jack to raise the rear enough to cant the pan forward and drain the small remainder. When it finishes, I put in the plug and fiddle with the filter. Not too much time, pain or strain.
My experience, there is less than a pint left in the pan after step 1...I have more than that in my oil cooler and lines. I used to take off the cooler lines and blow that oil out, but I decided as often as I change the oil, it wouldn't make that much difference, so I live with it...that seems to be the general consensus here on the forum. |
That's a good idea, using a second shallower pan. A long time ago I read that 1 qt of dirty oil mixed with 3 quarts of clean oil equal 4 quarts of dirty oil. I try to stick to that. But I agree, leaving a little bit isn't that bad.
|
Quote:
http://www.raceramps.com/xtenders.html I don't think they'd slide much either with the extenders on them as the incline isn't very steep and once the car is up, you can remove the extension to make it easier to get under the car. And if they did slide, I have seen people take a 1x4 and tie it to the ramp so when they drive the car onto the board it keeps the ramp from slipping. Doug |
I always jack my car up from the drivers side.
Jack up the drivers side, slip the jack stands under the frame on that side. roll the jack over a couple feet and jack up the passenger side. Put the jack stands on that side and I'm set. One advantage to doing this is you can easily see the jack stands that you have set, so if they start to tip, you can see it. Almost forgot. Ten minutes tops to have the car in the air. |
I know I'm going to take fire on this one...
I take my car to Jiffy Lube (stop laughing). After checking with a bunch of shops, I made friends if you will with the manager. He allows me to bring the car, my oil and my filter. He does the work, for $20 under the table. He enjoys the work, the car isn't suspended over my head with hot oil spilling back on me...and I get the job done right. I can also clear the guides for the 'pit by 1.5 inches...which makes this a no lift required affair. Give it some thought, it sure beats when I used to try and do this myself and I can usually talk him into watching from under the car and check all the fittings and connections. |
I got a pair of low profile ramps at auto zone. They have rubber feet on them and do not slip. They were cheap and work like a charm.
|
It's called a KwikLift. I park on it all the time, so it doen't take up much extra floor space. When I need the space, it takes 15 minutes to move it out of the garage. Works well for my other cars, too. It's a much better than jacks and jack stands, but maybe not as good as a full lift. Life is full of comprimises.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...lift9small.jpg |
You guys have some nice stuff.. Very nice! I might try building something myself. Just gotta find thick paint to cover my welding mistakes......LOL.
Interesting strategy Silverback. I've always done it front to back. I take it you roll the jack under the car once the first side is up. My fear of doing that, is once the second side starts to leave the ground, the tires slip and skid sideways and jacks tip over. But I might try it...very carefully the first time. |
Argess, I use a separate set of ramps for my Z06 (which actually sits lower than the SPF). Go out and buy three 8' sections of 2x10 or 2x12. Cut two lengths 5', 2 more 4', 2 @ 3' and 2 @ 2'. Cut them at 45* so you have a little less lip to roll over. Then sandwich them to create a stepped ramp (pre-drill your through holes and use decking screws to fasten together). Place a 2x4 across the top step (at the end) to give you a little insurance so you don't roll too far forward. Once you drive up on these, then you can jack up the other end securely.
I stow these under my "Poor Man's Qwik Lift" when I'm not using them. I can't use my ramp system with the 'Vette because the sills on the 'Vette are much lower and the wheelbase is a good 8-9 inches longer. I tried to build different bridges and longer ramp sections, but in the end I just made a pair of the stacked ramps and move them out when I do maintenance on my daily driver. -Dean |
before i got my lift, i used a set of rhino ramps and a pair of 4x6s that have been cut to allow me to drive up the timbers then up the ramps. gets front up a ton and the rear up enough to get my jack under the rearend. then i jack up rear high enough to slope the car to drain oil from front of pan. front wheels stay on ramps and rear on jack stands. just be careful while rolling on timbers. worked great till i got my maxjax lift. maxjax is awesome.
|
I use a magnetic oil plug for metal debri, it allows me to see a potential problem.
|
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:37 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: