Heat Insulation, whats is your ride ?

[kitcarbp]

Ok I am about to move into the build phase where I select a heat barrier for my chassis floors including the trans tunnel and firewall. Its all painted steel I will be bonding to. There is a bunch of insulation on the market. I want to know what works and what dosen't and the pros/cons you have found in your builds.

The Koolmat material seems to be good product but what else is there that works, comments or suggestions ?

Heat barrier is my first priority and sound deadening is my 2nd priority.

Thanks,

Bill

[trularin]

thermal guard, 1/2" jut felt and carpet.

[MFE III]

I used Frost King Duct insulation. It was recommended in the ERA manual.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...929-1410-FV516
Self adhesive foam on one side and foil on the other. Very easy to work with. I used it through out the cockpit (don't forget to do the firewall all the way up to the body) and the trunk floor.
Matt

[Austin_Snake]

I have used this material on 2 of the Carbon Cobras. I have it on the foot boxes, floors pans and tunnel. It is thin and very effective.
We also made a heat shield to protect the clutch master cylinder from the under car exhaust (only inches away). The side with material on it was 380 degrees while the master cylindr side was 105. Not bad considering it was 102that day. I highly recommend it.

http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sp&pid=27

[bobcowan]

I brushed on some Lizard Skin, ceramic insulation. Easy to apply with a cheap paint brush, seamless, and relativly light weight. The floor does not get hot even after 20 minutes on the track on a hot day. Other racers are amazed that it works so well.

It is a hard surface, so you'll want to put some kind of padding under the carpet on the floor.

[ratsnst1]

The first thing you want to do is underneath the car, paint with a roller and can be very messy,the lizard skin product, then on the inside, you need to put to forms of insulation in, it works just like a duall pane window, dyno mat everywhere, even in trunkand behind seats, then your basic insulation padding, then your carpet, no heat problems, just make sure you give plenty of room for seat mounting, cuz it will change, with all that stuff, my product was called quit ride solutions in stockton ca.

[Larry Spillman]

Wrap your headers this will cut down on a lot of heat then use any hardware aluminum foil insulation under rugs and other heat sources use spray glue to secure.

[kitcarbp]

Thanks to all of your suggestions, I do plan to ceramic coat the headers and side pipes to start with the heat source but will also need to insultate the firewall and tunnel/foot box area to limit the heat transfer.

Koolmat is a thin silicone sheet cast onto fiberglass mat that seems perfect for the hottest areas of the firewall and floor, other areas I'll call "secondary" indirect heat zones of the cockpit, the dynamat should work great beneath the carpet.

[cscobra]

The Frost King product FV516 ($15-20 for a 1/2" x 12" x 15' roll) is relatively cheap, easy to fit, lightweight, effective, and self-adhesive, just as MFE III said. ERA has recommended it for years. I bought mine at Lowe's, but Home Depot and other similar stores also carry it.

[bret a ewing]

Dynamat

http://www.dynamat.com/products_auto...at_xtreme.html

[JCoop]

Careful with the dynamat. I made the stupid mistake of using the stuff on the rear clip of my GT40, over the engine, and it proceeded to melt onto all the beautiful shiny stuff! It took me days to clean up the stuff.

It's great for under the seats and on the floors, firewall, and door skins, but Thermotec is the best for heat, IMHO. they have the new Kevlar lined stuff now too, for even higher heat rating.