irs 8.8 cv grease

vector1 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 09:54 AM

doing a rebuild on an irs because of a boot explosion, and there was grease everywhere. looked to be a whole can of moly grease like you would put on wheel bearings. i have to replace the boots and am wondering if there is a prefered grease for the cv joints that stays where it is supposed to.

also going to look into the irs pumpkin and possibly swap out the trac loc for a torsen, any recommendations here.

thanks.

Silverback51 · #2 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 10:07 AM

I just used regular Ford CV joint grease in mine.

And it doesn't matter what grease you use. If the boot fails you will have grease everywhere.

vector1 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 11:04 AM

i removed the other one and it had a green colored thicker grease, probably more like the cv grease or ford cv grease should be.

bobcowan · #4 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 11:16 AM

The boot kit come with grease in a plastic package. Only use about 1/2 that.

They have a tendancy to twist at speed, and that can tear them. At the small end, put some axle grease betrween the boot and the axle. And install the clamp slightly loos. That prevents twisting.

The other issue is that the boot can tear due to cintrifugal force. It's just not strenog enough to handle all that weight at high speeds. Fortunatly, there's a pretty simple solution. Simply put a couple of cable ties around the boot.

I was having real trouble with boots tearing. I even managed to tear some heavy duty silicone boots. I got pretty good at installing new boots, as they only lasted a few track days. What a mess. After discovering these simple changes, I'v been using the same boots for the last two years or so.

vector1 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 11:37 AM

thanks for the tips bob, i had thought about doing the zip tie thing and will certainly do it now. you just use the one zip tie?

jdean · #6 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 01:46 PM

Mark,

I went with the Torsen rear end based on researching others experience with them on the track. Right now I have very little experience with it but I am positive it is the best all around differential for street and track. DVs heavy Viper powered CR Cobra did over 1g on the skidpad with one, and ran 11s on the strip.

bobcowan · #7 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vector1

thanks for the tips bob, i had thought about doing the zip tie thing and will certainly do it now. you just use the one zip tie?

After I took the picture, I put another one in 2 grooves up towards the big end. I don't know if you really need two, but it made me feel better. And, so far, they have not torn.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdean

Mark,

I went with the Torsen rear end based on researching others experience with them on the track. Right now I have very little experience with it but I am positive it is the best all around differential for street and track. DVs heavy Viper powered CR Cobra did over 1g on the skidpad with one, and ran 11s on the strip.

I also use a torsion type diff. I started out with a standard Ford LSD. And for most situations that's just fine. But on the track you can feel the differance; it comes out of the corners a little stronger and with less push. On the street, it's better because the torque is more equally balanced. When I do a fun smoky burn out at the stop light, it tracks straight and true, no tail wagging.

Ant · #8 (**permalink**) 02-07-2010, 02:53 PM

After doing a bit of research, Castrol or any other coy make moly extreme pressure grease for CV joints, Redline make CV2 grease which is red moly and synthetic with good feedback, which I will use.
I am going through the process of changing my inner plunge joints to Porsche 930 108mm joints as the previous ball and cage joint had the circlip in the wrong place so I thought I had better find a good grease for racing use, one positive all my chromemoly CV's have small boots on them now so less chance of coming off.

vector1 · #9 (**permalink**) 02-08-2010, 06:20 AM

thanks for the info and tips guys, looks like zip ties, torsen, and good grease.

vector1 · #10 (**permalink**) 02-08-2010, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ant

After doing a bit of research, Castrol or any other coy make moly extreme pressure grease for CV joints, Redline make CV2 grease which is red moly and synthetic with good feedback, which I will use.
I am going through the process of changing my inner plunge joints to Porsche 930 108mm joints as the previous ball and cage joint had the circlip in the wrong place so I thought I had better find a good grease for racing use, one positive all my chromemoly CV's have small boots on them now so less chance of coming off.

ant, you doing this to a ford 8.8 irs?

vector1 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-08-2010, 09:00 AM

after ordering the t2 is there anything else needed, kit wise?

looks like the trac loc comes out and pull the bearings and press them on the t2 along with the ring gear, insert, preload and and tq. the caps on.

maybe a kit with shims or replace the bearings and probably replace the oil seals. see kits for trac loc rebuild but don't believe i need everything included there.

rent, buy, borrow, or make a case spreader?

Silverback51 · #12 (**permalink**) 02-08-2010, 11:06 AM

I would be careful with the zip ties. If you have to much of an angle, they will wear the boot and cause a failure.

Ant · #13 (**permalink**) 02-09-2010, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vector1

ant, you doing this to a ford 8.8 irs?

I want to do a bit of racing and I had 300m bars and chromemoly cv axles made up 2 years ago and when I came to fit them the circlip position on the inner cv was for a GTO not Ford, so the supplier kindly exchanged the inner cv for there latest Porsche 930 units.

The inners they supply are ball and cage, compared to the tripod ford joint which is still ok for most use, the Porsche unit is stronger again and if it packs up just unbolt the joint and fit a new one without changing the whole unit.