Burping cooling system

[snakebitekit]

Has anyone come across this tool;

http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com...qx/product.htm

It apparently loads the coolant via a vacuum eliminating air in the system. You do need a compressor to do this. With all the problems showing up regarding the burping issue I have never seen this tool mentioned. Has anyone used it?

Read about it in my motorcycle mags.


Airlift™ Coolant Refill Kit

[Tom Wells]

snakebitekit,

Interesting bit of gear!

Here are the instructions:

JOHNSON’S PN 360-CS AIRLIFT EVACUATION SYSTEM
__________________________________________________ _____________________________
PLEASE FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS WHEN USING THE AIRLIFT TOOL
-Install on airline nipple to the Verturi assembly, 1/4” NPT.
-Minimum shop air requirement: 90 PSI (6.2 bar)
-Shop air should have an air dryer system.
-For best results, radiators should be empty.
-Heater control should be set to the heat position.
-Ignition may need to be turned to “ON” position).
-Periodically lubricate tool’s threads.

REFILLING INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Insert tool into radiator service neck or reservoir tank. Use appropriate rubber adapters. Rad neck adapter should fit snug in opening,
IMPORTANT: When using the smallest rubber adapter, do not bump the assembly as it may result in loss of vacuum.

2. To seal the Rad neck adapter, tighten the knurl knob by turning it clockwise until snug.
IMPORTANT: Do not hold Rad neck adapter by the vacuum gauge.

3. Connect the Venturi assembly to the Rad neck adapter. Make sure the ball valve is open.

4. Connect shop airline to the Venturi assembly. You will start hearing a hissing noise and the vacuum gauge will begin rising. (If coolant system is not empty, Venturi body hose may spit out some coolant, thus reducing efficiency).

5. Allow system to reach 24-26 on gauge. (This will take less than a minute).
NOTE: Radiator hoses may start to collapse. This is normal due to vacuum draw.
IMPORTANT: Some radiator overflow hoses may need to be clamped off to obtain vacuum.

6. When gauge reaches the desired 24-26, close ball valve and disconnect the air supply and Venturi assembly from Rad neck adapter. After 20 seconds, the gauge should not move indicating the cooling system has no leaks.

7. Connect the refill hose to the Rad neck adapter. Place screened end into the coolant supply of your choice. Open the ball valve and the coolant will start to fill the vehicle cooling system. Cooling system is full when vacuum gauge reaches zero. On some vehicles, a second vacuum may be necessary.
NOTE: For best results, place the coolant supply at the same height of Radneck adapter. If coolant level runs too low, it will pull air into the cooling system, thus defeating the goal of filling to the proper level. Always draw from more coolant than required. On remote pressurized tank, it is advised to stop filling when proper level is reached.

8. Remove Rad neck adapter from radiator by turning the knurl knob counterclockwise.
NOTE: Overflow tanks should be filled to proper level. Always allow cooling system to warm up before attaching radiator cap. Top up cooling system if necessary.

Possibly easier to do than it sounds, I hope!

Interesting concept, though - pull all the air out by creating a hard vacuum in the cooling system, then admitting water without letting the air back in.

Let us know if it really works!

Tom

[Excaliber]

Whew, way to complicated for me.

[Dwight]

I just loosen the water temp sensor and fill with water till it runs out. Tighten and drive it.

Dwight

[madmaxx]

You my friend are boring!!! Exactly what I do. I hate when things work the first time.

Originally Posted by Dwight

I just loosen the water temp sensor and fill with water till it runs out. Tighten and drive it.

Dwight

[olddog]

To totally eliminate the air you would have to pull 1 atmosphere of vacuum, which, if memory serves me, is about 29 inches of mercury. I wonder if they mean 24-26 inch of mercury. That would seem to me to be very hard to do with a venturi, but I guess possible. If they are talking 24-26 inches of water (anything short of an atmosphere), it would fill the radiator, but it would not eliminate air pockets in the engine.

I would be a bit concerned that the water pump seal would be damaged at an atmosphere of vacuum. Vacuum would be a pressure in the exact opposite direction that the seal is designed to work. Can a radiator tube take 14.7 lb of force pressing on it from the outside? What about the radiator tanks? Most tanks that can hold lots of pressure will collapse with a vacuum in them.

Lots of bad things can happen it this world. It might work, but I would want to know more.

[tboneheller]

I used to use those all of the time. They work great.

[madmaxx]

Your boring too!!!! Lets see what happens start suking!!! Just pull the temp sending unit and bleed and go drive.

Originally Posted by olddog

To totally eliminate the air you would have to pull 1 atmosphere of vacuum, which, if memory serves me, is about 29 inches of mercury. I wonder if they mean 24-26 inch of mercury. That would seem to me to be very hard to do with a venturi, but I guess possible. If they are talking 24-26 inches of water (anything short of an atmosphere), it would fill the radiator, but it would not eliminate air pockets in the engine.

I would be a bit concerned that the water pump seal would be damaged at an atmosphere of vacuum. Vacuum would be a pressure in the exact opposite direction that the seal is designed to work. Can a radiator tube take 14.7 lb of force pressing on it from the outside? What about the radiator tanks? Most tanks that can hold lots of pressure will collapse with a vacuum in them.

Lots of bad things can happen it this world. It might work, but I would want to know more.

[olddog]

I've been called much worse.

I couldn't get the air pocket out of my heads by pulling the plug, with the front end on my jack stands at the highest notch. Hot pockets in the heads gurgled when I shut it off. I finally backed in over a steep bank and got another half gallon in it. Problem solved, but it wasn't easy.