Pin Wheels

[JOEL SERRANO]

I have knock off wheels, does anyone know the torque setting for the wheel studs? thanks,
JS

[Tony Ripepi]

Hello Joel,

I've always torqued mine to 50 ft. lb. I have not seen a spec anywhere to go by but, I was going by what you would normally torque a lugnut to.

BTW make sure you use anti sieze compound on the stud and on the wheel when you put them on to the studs before tightening the wing nuts.

I will be interested to see what the range of responses are.

Tony Ripepi

[Dominik]

Joel,

if you are talking about 5-pin TRIGO wheel where you mount the adapter witht the lug nuts, it's 80 lbs.

That is according to the manufacturers specs.
The old version of the barrel shaped nuts tend to warp though.
That has been corrected by using nuts with bigger walls now.

Unfortunately the 1/2" hex key now doesn't fit, neither does a 12 mm hex.

If you mean the 6-pin version with the little hex insert I tightened them as hard as I could with an L-shaped hex wrench but used Loctite to hold the studs.

Dominik

[Rick Parker]

Dominick:
How do the newer barrel nuts differ from earlier ones and when were they changed. Inquiring minds want to know!
Do you mean they deformed while tightening to 80 FT lbs?
Rick

[Zderf]

I too would like to know more about the change in the pin lugs. As recently as March 2001, I chatted with Trigo trying to identify the tool that one uses to remove and install these pins. I was told 12mm allen wrench. It worked, and I was not asked what version pin lug I had.

Ummmmm. Interesting.

Thanks in advance for the clarifications.

Zderf

[Tony Ripepi]

Hi Guys,

I have both the Trigos and the Superformance wheels. I use the 12mm allen head wrench on them both. The Trigo sleeves were never a problem but, the SPF versions did have a tendency to round out under torque when I was tightening them. The other issue was when I was removing the Trigos and putting on the SPF adapters, studs and wheels the studs, on one of the wheels came loose, required an air wrench to take them off and on.

I used 50 ft. lbs. and have checked them several times since with no loosening, I did not use locktite but, I did use anti sieze on all of the surfaces.

Just call me the man with the silver fingers...

Tony R.

[Dominik]

Guys,

I am not sure when TRIGO introduced the new nuts. About middle of this year?
To identify them measure the hex.It is a little smaller than before.
A 12 mm hex key works, but it not the perfect fit. The nut is 0.2 mm too wide.
The 1/2" hex won't slip in.

It is also shiny, compared to the dull looking one used before.

Yes, they warped tightening them to 80 lbs after several times.
We changed wheels on one car to use sliks for racing.

I wish that they hold with 50 lbs tightening force and will try from now on with the old version.

SPF users:
I always point out that SPF mounts the adapters on the wrong side from time to time. Because driver side in South Africa is right hand side.

Right hand thread to left hand side of the car is correct.

Hope that helps,

Dominik

[JOEL SERRANO]

Guys,
The 6 - pin version with the hex is what I have. I'LL be sure to use anti-size also. Thank you all for your help,
JS

[Bob Putnam]

I am not aquainted with the Contempory's hub design, but our pins are only 3/8"-24 thread. We recommend that they be torqued to only 30 lbft from both ends. although we use red Loctite in the hub for a pretty permanant fit. I don't think that the internal hex will stand much more than that without stripping.

[JOEL SERRANO]

Thanks for the info Bob,
JS

[CSX 4027]

I suggest all to pick up the 4 great books written by Carroll Smith. His nuts and bolts book will give all some insight to correct torque and what process the threads go through when both under and over tightened...

[Dominik]

Bob,

dang: picture and torque values. Perfect!

The Contemporary studs are 3/8" as well, but are screwed in without nut (both front and rear).

Steve,
good advise to get those books!

Dominik

[JOEL SERRANO]

Thanks for the info Bob.

Steve, I will order those books .
JS