Hyd Throwout Brg Assembly-Help!!!

[Clois Harlan]

I picked up my McCleod hydraulic T/O kit with spacer and adjuster screw yesterday for my 428 cj w/ a toploader trans and lakewood bellhousing and I have some questions if anyone can help I would appreciate it very much.

Q: My instructions refer to "removing the main drive collar" and
I am not sure what they are refering to on a toploader. I
have a "Front bearing retainer"

Q: The instructions do not reference the order the assembly
goes on the input shaft nor does it address the direction of
the inside bevels on the adjuster screw and spacer.

I am sure these are very simple questions but I want to be sure I get it right the first time (hate pulling that 140# toploader in and out. If anyone can help I can be reached at my email address or at 918-499-7238.

Thanks.

Clois Harlan

[Roscoe]

Clois,
I have found that the best thing to do in these situations is get a Tech on the line from McLeod and have him walk you through it. Make sure you understand what he is saying and write everything down. Don't hesitate to call 2-3 times to get it right.
Been there....done that,
Roscoe

[Clois Harlan]

Thanks Roscoe,

But all the Tech's are in Las Vegas this week for a convention and I had recruited help this weekend for the install.

[Roscoe]

Too Bad,

I'd love to help you but I've got a Tilton TO Bearing.

Have you tried using a search engine like Google to search for other sites? Also, you may want to find some companies that sell Mcleod and call them for tech advice.

Roscoe

[renaissance man]

Clois,

Go to David Kee's web site at www.4speedtoploaders.com and look at the "exploded view". This is the best place to look. If unsure from here, I'd suggest calling him. I have the same setup and tranny on my 289 HiPo. In fact, David will be at my home this Saturday helping me out. Stop by and you can see how it's done. ha ha

[Bob Putnam]

The Weber setup here is similar, so the instructions might help a little. You probably don't have to remove the bearing retainer, although I'm not positive. We only use this setup on the Tremec.

[Clois Harlan]

Thanks to all especially to Bob Putnam for the link to the Weber website. I think I can get there with this information.

This ClubCobra website is great...!!!Hopefully, I can return the favor in the future.

Clois

[Bob Putnam]

Aahhemm... That's an semi-official supplement to the ERA manual posted to the web. The instructions that came in the Weber box - how can I put this sublety.. - were amateurish.

[427sharpe]

On my McLeod, the aluminum spacer fits only one way, bevel edge toward the trans. Screw the t/o bearing into adjustment first (break out the ruler to get it right!) and leave the retainer in place. Just remove one bolt and put the 'L' shaped bracket under it and re-tighten (the bracket keeps the bearing from spinning by hitting the stop screw---If this isn't clear, email me your e address and I will scan the instruction sheet and some pics--OK???

[aeroace]

The bevel points towards the trans to aid in installation. Rub a little bit of dot3 brake fluid on th O-rings to aid installation
Insert a ruler or piece of rod(measure with a marker) into the bellhousing to measure the distance to the diaphram. Rotate the coller on the hydraulic TO until the distance from the flange is .100 inch less than the bellhousing to diaphram distance, a .100 ince gap from the TO to the diaphram.Tie the lines down to prevent movement, the Banjo fittings are prone to leakage on the Mcleod setup.

[Slide]

If the motor is not in the car yet, I found it easier to trial fit the trans then reach thru the clutch fork opening and spin the bearing into contact. This insures the bearing is fully seated and when you remove the trans you just have one easy measurement to back the bearing down .0100-..0125. With only .025 to play with I was unsure of the accuracy of my bellhousing to finger measurment.

[Clois Harlan]

I finally got to talk to one of McCleods technicians and he gave me a bit more information that I would like to pass on. When using a toploader transmission in a big block you don't use the spacer. If you read the PAW catalog it implies you need to order the PN1439 spacer but don't. My measurements from my clutch fingers to the end of my bellhousing was 3" and the measurement from the front of my transmission face to the contact part of the bearing face was 4" fully adjusted back (with the spacer installed). No way it would work. Never using this type of bearing before I didn't want to leave anything out that should be included in the assembly so I called McCleod and left a msg and Friday afternoon George called me back with the above info.

My first thought was that I was going to have to change bellhousings (I am using a Lakewood). Alls well that ends well and it seems to be going just fine now. In case anyone else decides to go with the hydraulic bearing assembly all you need to order is the hydraulic assembly and the self adjusting screw only.

PS to Slide-yes the engine is out and I will be installing the engine and transmission as a unit-a lot of things are easier out of the car. Thanks again for your advise.

Thanks again for everyones input.

Clois

[Roscoe]

Clois,
Like I said in the beginning:

I have found that the best thing to do in these situations is get a Tech on the line from McLeod and have him walk you through it. Make sure you understand what he is saying and write everything down. Don't hesitate to call 2-3 times to get it right.

Glad to hear everything worked out and you finally got it done correctly.

Been there....done that,
Roscoe

[Scott S]

are real crap. If you have enough room get rid of them and use some solid fittings. You will really get PO'd when the little o-rings in the ends of the banjo fittings get bad.

Scott S

[Jahred]

Hey Bob Putnam. That is a nice set of diagrams on the Hyd T/O.

Question for you. I know when my HYD T/O was installed there was a stop that was put in. The mechanic I think blew the seal once during testing. I dont think he had the system set up right. He had the bleeder hose on the bottom and may not have had it bled.

He redid, and installed a stop. My HYD T/O is now leaking. I had thought it might be the connection or bleeder valve not being tight enough.

If it is the seal, how is that fixed. I assume disassembly required? Anything you would do before pulling the tranny?

[Roscoe]

Jahred,
Let me butt in here and say that if your mechanic 'blew' the seal on the bearing then it should have been replaced at that time. There are several warnings in the manuals that say not to overextend the bearing. If he installed it incorrectly and damaged it then it should be his responsibility to fix it.

And to answer your question whether you should do anything before pulling the tranny; call the dope that installed/damaged it and ask him when he will make it right.

My 2 quarts,
Roscoe

[Jahred]

Roscoe - thanks for the input. Unfortunately these are the same guys that crossed the remote oil lines and burned up the engine.

they already wrote me a check for 10k and I signed a waiver.

:-(

[Roscoe]

OUCH!

[Slide]

Johnny, I just pulled the tranny and found one banjo fitting that that leaks like a sieve-it has some play even with all the nuts tight I only have 1000mi on the car so I'm not too happy. I will call Mcloud tomorrow and see if there are some solid fittings available. I'd really hate to change the O rings just to go through this again!

[Steve Jones]

Clois,

What clutch are you using?
With the CenterForce Dual Friction I'm using I found out I had to buy a separate "large face adapter" from Mcleod. The standard bearing face will just barely go through the center hole on the CenterForce pressure plate fingers. I almost didn't notice the problem and was ready to install the transmission. Would have been even really pissed had I installed it. Up to that point, no one from Mcleod or Centerforce had mentioned it. When I questioned the fit with the Mcleod Tech. Rep. he suddenly went "Oh yeah! You need this adapter for another $50." Anyway, just make sure the bearing face is large enough to cover the fingers.

Steve