Will exhaust pipe work as a radiator hose?

renaissance man · #1 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 09:35 AM

I need to reroute my lower radiator hose. I was thinking of using a stainless steel type of pipe to run under the front cross member. Hammer it slightly flat so that it appears "oval" at the point that it runs under the front cross member returning to "round" at either end. Can exhaust piping be used for this or will it corrode?

SilverCobra · #2 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 09:56 AM

Dave - Trent Dockstetter - "Okiesnake" did this on his Unique. I believe what he actually did was to bend a coat hanger with all the twists and bends he needed and then went to the muffler shop and the pipe bending machine made the correct angles/bends. He took it one step further and had these upper and lower pipes ceramic coated. The ceramic coated pipes then attach to the water outlets and radiator with double clamp hoses about 4 inches long. The lower hose actually passes through a round hole cut in the 2x4 horizontal cross member. This way the pipe won't be subject to damage if you bottom out. I have a picture of his set up on my home computer and will post a picture tonight.

renaissance man · #3 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 10:09 AM

Thanks Dick,

That sounds exactly like what I need it to do. Great idea with the coat hanger too!

wadesdad · #4 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 12:34 PM

RM,

Keep in mind, if you're not running solid motor mounts, something has to flex when your engine moves during revs/deceleration.

-wadesdad

Maury Novak · #5 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 01:11 PM

Dave - exhaust pipe should work fine. I have been using one for that purpose for the last six years. I painted the outside with black hi-temp rustoleum paint. The inside is protected by the anti freeze.

Maury

Sonny · #6 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 01:14 PM

the normal exhaust stainless works fine and will outlast any of the hoses it's attached to many times over. warm it up when you flatten it since it tens to crack along the length/seam due to graining.

renaissance man · #7 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 01:39 PM

Thanks for the responses. I guess as long as I use rubber connectors with dual clamps on both ends of the stainless that will give enough flex if needed at the points needed.

poorboy · #8 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 03:29 PM

Ren;
Even with double clamping you need to have a bead welded or rolled near each end of the pipe to keep the hose from sliding off. It always happens at the worst time (like in the middle of a car show)

Poorboy

Double Venom · #9 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 04:21 PM

RenMan,
Yup, it works just great. Don't really even need to use stainless. The aluminized steel they now use for tailpipes, etc., will work a long, long time. One of the guys went so far as to take his made up tube to a machine shop and had both ends knurled so that the hoses wouldn't slide off.

DV

P.s. The whites down - final clear coat tomorrow. Be in the mail by Friday.

SilverCobra · #10 (**permalink**) 11-19-2001, 09:45 PM

David - here is the pic of Okiesnake's ceramic coated coolant tubes made by the muffler shop. I like what others said about having the ends rolled or a bead welded to keep the connector hose from slipping off.

dakota · #11 (**permalink**) 11-20-2001, 08:08 AM

Since it's been about a month since it happened, I can somewhat laugh about it now. I got a chuckle from it, and will second Poorboy's "WORST TIME" statement. I specifically asked the exhaust shop to give me something (weld bead or flare) for the clamps to seat against on both ends, but he said he had done "lots" of them for street rods without ever doing that. All right I thought, I'll take his word for it. After starting my engine for the first time and running it in for 20 minutes or so, I crawled underneath to drop the oil. The hose popped off the pipe right next to me, and I ended up with second and third degree burns over most of the right side of my face and head. If it's gonna happen, it WILL be at the worst time.
Wade

Okiesnake · #12 (**permalink**) 11-20-2001, 06:24 PM

In regards to Wadesdad's concerns about motor flex - I used the rubber hoses at each end of the pipes to allow for flex and vibration isolation. I got the fabricated coolant hoses ceramic coated at Airborn in OKC for $20 for the upper and lower set. (Airborn had already done the headers and side pipes for $350). I gave the muffler guy $20 to make the pipes from my coathanger pattern. It did take a visit through the local auto parts store's inventory of rubber radiator hoses to find the right shaped 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" hoses. I cut out pieces of the rubber hoses with best angled shapes for the lower hose. I also incorporated an expansion tank in my system.

Okiesnake · #13 (**permalink**) 11-20-2001, 06:31 PM

another pic

wadesdad · #14 (**permalink**) 11-21-2001, 08:23 AM

Okiesnake,

Nice job! "God is in the details"

RACERAL · #15 (**permalink**) 11-22-2001, 08:53 PM

i used that cool flex hose on mine and it works good and will flex anyway you can bend it

Okiesnake · #16 (**permalink**) 11-23-2001, 02:18 PM

I had heard that the Coolflex had a tendency to flex and distort somewhat as is heated up. I have no first hand experience with the product myself. For most applications the amount of flex would probably be tolerable. However in the application that Renaissance man had in mind, this flex might be too much. Possibly Raceral or someone else could report on the amount of temporary distortion (if any) they have experienced with Coolflex.

hdheritage97 · #17 (**permalink**) 11-23-2001, 02:45 PM

I bought an Everett Morrison car from a guy in Ohio. He did most of the radiator hose using exhaust pipe. He had it custom bent where needed and used regular radiator hoses, cut, where he had to make connections, oh yeah, and also at some bends. It came out pretty good and if he hadn't told me it was exhaust pipe, I never would have guessed it. I would suggest should you use it, be sure to turn the seams in so they aren't visable.

Cliff