Torque Specs for Weiand Intake?

[renaissance man]

Anyone know the torque specs for a Weiand Intake (8020) on a 289?

I tried their web site to no avail. Blew an intake manifold seal this morning.

Someone said I should just can the gaskets and fill the gap with high temp silicone or RTV?

[Jack21]

About as much torque as you can comfortably put on a 3/8 drive ratchet. Use cross stitch pattern, and torque all bolts reasonably equal.

But that's not the problem. Holding the end gaskets in place is. I use Weldwood (Home Depot grade) contact adhesive for some gasket aplications. For the end gaskets, rubber or cork, apply contact adhesive to the block and bottom of the gasket. Let dry until tack free, then stick together. For gasket to bottom of intake, use Hi Temp Silicone. Some use just silicone. I don't trust it to take up that much thickness and stay structurally intact under heat, vacuum, fuel, & oil.

Another trick is valve cover and oil pan gaskets. Contact adhesive on the side you want to stay put, wheel bearing (non-moly) grease on the side you want to seal but come loose when you want. Valve covers always come off, always seal, and never tear up the gaskets. Same for oil pan if you want to drop it for cleaning occasionally without replacing the gasket. Works better than silicone or Permatex on water pump, and thermostat gaskets too.

[Dan Heck]

I seem to recall that the Edelbrock website has some decent tech info on it and it would seem reasonable to guess that the spec should be quite similar.

Dan

[concobra]

You should be able to use the stock Ford torque numbers and sequence.

Make sure your manifold has flat mating surfaces and the distances are even between the intake port and the cylinder head and the manifold. (With the manifold resting on the lifter valley, without gaskets, the distance from the top of the intake port and the bottom of the intake port should be the same.) You will be able to see any difference that can contribute to a lack of sealing.

Make absolutely sure the mating surfaces are very clean. After old gasket removal clean with lacquer thinner until no residue is seen on the paper towels you are using. This includes the lifter valley rails.

Use a premium gasket with a flexible sealing point to vbe able to move with the diference between iron heads and aluminum manifold. Such as a FelPro # 1262 or what ever best fits you port and coolant passage type. Treat with a good flexible adhesive and as Hymolar.

I use a silicone bead at the lifter valley area without a failure yet. (Including a 428 FE motor with 230,000 miles on it.) The idea is this area needs to be residue free for a good bond. I use Permatex Ultra Copper as it has an additive that makes the silicon seal expand with exposed to hot oil.


Good Luck.

[Paul Hensley]

I just finished installing a Weiand 8021 CJ/SCJ Stealth on my 429 a few weeks ago with no problem. It reccomended oil resistant silicone for the front and rear gasket. Torguing to 10 ft/lbs, then 15 ft/lbs and finally 25 ft/lbs using the cross stitch patern. Retorque bolts after 30 minutes of engine run time......worked for me. Hope this helps.

[mickmate]

Good advice on torque numbers and pattern. Remember torque isn't to get it tight, it's to keep it even!Have you machined alot off the heads or decked the block as this may need some matching machining on the manifold. I assume you sucked an end gasket in. If you get them clean and stick the ends good at the overlap and have a good manifold-valley match it will work.
Suck squeeze bang blow gotta love it.