Superformance Sidepipe Breakage

Grant Garrison · #1 (**permalink**) 12-03-2001, 08:08 PM

I've got about 1500 miles on my Superformance, and have just experienced my 3rd sidepipe breakage. The 1/2" x 1/8" strap going into the rear mount (at the tip end of the pipe has broken on each side once. We repaired each, adding some metal to reinforce. The breakage point has always been inboard of where the support branches or "Y"s to twin straps. Breakage occurs during rough roads, not engine torque "applications".

Now one of the straps has broken again, and I'm wondering if anyone has had similar problems or has any potential solutions (that don't bugger up the looks of my sidepipes!). One additional piece of info: When they break, there's aprox. 1/4" gap created, which means that these straps are ALWAYS under tension. Is this the cause, or a normal sidepipe fit?

Thanks!

bnewell · #2 (**permalink**) 12-03-2001, 08:29 PM

Grant,

You should try asking the guys and gals on the SCOF forum. From what I hear, they are there to help fellow SPF "OWNERS".

Brian

jgrice · #3 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 03:19 AM

Grant, to Brian's point we are here to help. If you've signed up to SCOF, search for side pipes and you should find reference to an incidident similiar to yours.

If you have not yet signed up, email me offline (jeff.grice@home.com) and I will find them and send to you. I am running to work right now otherwise I would post.

Jeff #186

aeroace · #4 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 12:12 PM

I've seen them break there on several cars. They most often break right where the V is. Gind them clean, weld the breakage, weld another 1/8" x 1" strap on the underside, flat to the already existant 1/8" x 1" strap. This can be done on the car without removal. Just protect the paint from sparks with wetted cardboard. Spray paint the offending mount with high temp paint. You can even match ceramic-coating with header paint, it won't be visibly obvious, it's on the bottom.

What do you mean "on rough roads" are the sidepipes hitting the ground? Is the oilpan ar bellhousing hitting the ground? Are you using the sidepipes as nerf-bars? Three times, something's going on.

Great Asp · #5 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 03:31 PM

Grant,

Yes, the SCOF board could help as you "have a car" that has a problem. I remember this issue being addressed once before by another member. One request on SCOF will get you quick answers for these types of items.

There are other postings in the database for all kinds of items that are handy when working on your car. Of course you have to have a car to work on to make SCOF useful. But since you already do..... (wink-wink).

Sorry Brian, I could never pass up an easy target.

Great Asp

bnewell · #6 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 05:08 PM

Great Assp-

Thats ok!! My skin has become a little thicker over the past few days!! I especially enjoyed the private email that I received from a DAVID POTTER who is a SCOF member. This guy was quoting from a Bambi movie. Good Lord, whats up with that??? I now am embarrassed to tell anyone that I am a Michigan fan!!

Take care,

Brian

bnewell · #7 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 05:25 PM

Great Asp -

I just noticed on my post the extra "s", I apologize, it was not intended!! Take care.

Brian

Cobrabill · #8 (**permalink**) 12-04-2001, 06:57 PM

I had the straps on my Stainless Specialties pipes break also.I over-engineered replacement straps and i have no more problem.

Grant Garrison · #9 (**permalink**) 12-05-2001, 05:44 PM

Thanks to everyone for the responses. When repairing the first two breakages, we DID add metal, maybe just not enough. I'll make an effort to really over-engineer it this time (on the underside so it doesn' t look like hell).

Has anybody seen a gap separating the two broken ends when they do go? As I mentioned earlier, each time my straps have broken, I've had at least a 1/4" gap between the pieces-- hot or cold.

Aeroace-- I live in Detroit, arguable home of America's worst roads (tho I'm sure Afghanistan wins the world title these days). It's just not billiard-table smooth sportscar land around here. No contact between car parts and the ground. And no off roading, I promise! You would think that Motor City, possibly home of the world's greatest concentration of gearheads, would at least have drivable roads.....

Anyway-- anybody seen big gaps (indicating the straps are under tension) when these thing bust? I'm wondering if the source of my problems is improper alignment up front, from my headers.

Sonny · #10 (**permalink**) 12-05-2001, 07:22 PM

bottom line, the SPF hanger is a bad shape/design for the static shock load it encounters. it's not under tension but fatigue from the occillations near the fixed point. do you have the dimensions, i could have our fab person modify our 427SC and send it to you along with the attachment, semigloss heat rest blk. very min. cost.

B. SMITH · #11 (**permalink**) 06-04-2003, 04:28 PM

SORRY TO DISAGREE AT THIS LATE DATE, BUT BUFFALO NY HAS FAR WORSE ROADS THAN DETRIOT. IF THEY EVER FIND OUT THAT SOMEPLACE HAS WORSE ROADS THEY SEND OUT ROAD CREWS TO MAKE NEW POTHOLES IMMEDIADELY......

B. SMITH

craigayl · #12 (**permalink**) 06-04-2003, 07:15 PM

Grant, review this fix

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/craiga.../brace_001.htm

I have about 4000 miles with it and no further problems.

Tinker51 · #13 (**permalink**) 06-04-2003, 10:45 PM

One of mine broke just last week (5000 miles on the car) and it had the same gap you mentioned when it broke. Oddly enough the gap increased when the pipe got hot. I smoothed the ends and welded it back up. If it breaks again I will put a reinforcing strap across the area. I decided to take the pipe off the car to perform this. It would be just my luck to screw up the paint while welding close to the body. All the hardware can be reached through the cutout in the side of the body but it helps to have the car up on jack stands. A lift would make things easy but ours was occupied by another vehicle. I just looked at the page listed in the post above mine. If I have to repair it again that was exactly what I was going to do.

Mr.Fixit · #14 (**permalink**) 06-05-2003, 08:39 AM

If you remove the sidepipe form an SPF, or any car that has a bolt together flange along the pimaries, throw away the fasteners and put new ones on. Eight 5/16" bolts and nuts are cheap.

tyfaim · #15 (**permalink**) 06-20-2003, 04:10 PM

You may want to inspect your engine mounts. If the factory rubber mounts allow the engine to rock with throttle application. This twisting motion will eventually cause the side pipe bracket to fracture! As a test, You could unbolt the side pipe brackets, next grasp the collectors just at the point of exiting the body and rock the engine, If the engine moves back and forth I would consider replacing the engine mounts. polyurethane engine mounts may help with these broken side pipe brackets. Hope this helps.

Grant Garrison · #16 (**permalink**) 07-22-2003, 09:39 PM

Thanks for the suggestions, especially craigayl' s link. I've also heard that the Olthoff's may have some new & improved mounts.

The more I look at it, the source of my problem seems to be engine block movement. Urethane engine mounts, or some means of strapping / limiting the engine block from it's wild dance (however fetching it may be) sounds like the ultimate cure.

I've been driving the car without rear mounts for a while now. It sure is fun watching the pipes gyrating all over the place, but is probably not doing any favors to my stainless headers....