FE expansion tank questions??

[Whaler]

Hi
what are the alternatives to using an old FE expansion tank to connect my rad to my intake?? I have a 428 with the edelbrock RPM manifold
Fe tanks seem to be expensive unless I can find one at the wrecker...
I would like to know what is out there aftermarket or what guys have used for the job. I have seen a picture where a moroso style Tee was piped between the two openings with rad hose of corresponding sizes.
Am I correct in assuming the Tee with it's rad cap has to be the highest point in the system?? ( airlocks and filling point)
Also am I correct in saying that there is no pressure at this point.
If I make something up here is this also where the line for the puke tank originates??

So is the moroso tank meant to be a puke/catch can from the TEE or double as an expansion tank??

Love to see photos if you guys have any.

Thanks
Tim

[mickmate]

This topic was covered well with some good piccy's recently.
Do a search on it.
Cheers Nick

[Whaler]

Thanks for the reply. I have done what you suggested and found some recent related info

Appreciate the help

Tim

[chopper]

FWIW, ERA sells a reproduction unit which is essentially identical to the original, but is constructed of heavier gauge material. I purchased one when the original unit on my car split along the crimp seam just below the filler spout. If you're interested in an original style unit, give Peter a call.

[Sonny]

the era tank also takes a beautiful chrome job over the fac orig too. don't know if peter/bob offers them chrome or not, yet.

[mickmate]

I still say you can't beat a junkyard FE tank for $5, turn the bracket and pipe around, blast and paint it!

[Tom T.]

Got my expansion tank from Enzo and Paula at Finishline, after a very unsatisfactory experience with a repro unit from Cobra Restorers. The Finishline sourced tank works perfectly, no leaks, no distortions.

TT

[Whaler]

Hi guys...looking at the junkyard option. Can't get over paying 200-235 US for a refurbished unit.
64-65 TBird units are said to be the item.
I have a nice glassbeader and friends in the rad business.
Do most guys paint them black or go with the shiny brass look?? If I get one cheap and its solid I may chrome. Black powdercoat would look nice.

PS In Canada the refurb.unit would end up being $360.00 CDN then throw in shipping charges and possible duty/taxes
$400 plus..yikes

LOL
Tim

[bigmike]

I just bought one from a yard in Arizona.
Not pretty, but undamaged and solid....$75 US.
Should clean up well. Mine even had the outlet on the correct side for my car. Tell them which side you need. BTW, don't try to powdercoat. They are soldered brass, and will dissassemble at the curing temperature. I plan to chrome. The source? Hidden Valley Auto, Maricopa, AZ, USA (602) 252.6137

Good Luck

BigMike

[Whaler]

Thanks Mike for the tip on Powdercoat.
At present I have my finger on one right now...... came off a 64-65 t-bird 390 / And yes the outlet is on the correct side for me....It's in good shape and looks like 50 bucks US will do it.

I lucked out and found one on E-Bay just today auction just closed and Igot it for 50 or 51 bucks. Seller says it's in good shape and he's close for me so shipping will be decent as well.



Tim

[Whaler]

Surge tank is from a 1961 Ford Galaxie. Brass with a few dents in top, lower tube, and overflow tube. Part number C1AE-8A080-B. Sold as is, no reserve, shipping $15 via UPS. Check my auctions in the upcoming weeks for more FE and 1961 Ford parts.

Expansion tank at E-Bay

whaler

[Dan Heck]

I've gone with a $10 junkyard original tank on my build as well- I trimmed the original steel mounting bracket and welded on a modified mount to install it on my 351W engine. An easy and fun weekend project for a visual appearance a bit more like the original. I filled a couple of dents & dings with solder and painted them over.

Dan

[Whaler]

Hi Dan
Awesome idea to simply fill in the dents with lead/solder
I too will likely paint mine in that shiny black I see on the FE's. What paint did you use??
I guess it doesn't see real high temp..200F?

By the way saw one at a site today going for over 300 bucks in the black finish.

Have a Good Christmas all!!

Tim

[Steve R]

Whaler,
I use Dupont "99-a pitch black" Paint. this stuff is great for frames, brackets, or anything you want to paint gloss black. If you want flat, mix in 25% flattner...looks like velvet..I get the paint at the local "Finishmaster" autobody supply store. If you are unfamiliar with this paint, or how it is mixed, the guys at the store usually can help. Steve R

[ERA535]

I had $100 invested in two junk yard tanks -plus the $40 bucks each to have them turned the right way before I realized that I was really sick of constantly screwing with them......the old tanks - even from California wrecking yards - just don't cut it.

I got a beautiful new brass one from either ERA or Cobra Restorers or Finish Line (I can't rremember who) but it cost about $325 and it looks great and hasn't caused any grief.

If I was going to do it again I would get a new one - no question.

[Zderf]

Got my authentic tank from George at Gessford Machine who had it serviced, repaired, and tested prior to shipment. Its in as good a condition as one could hope for. Had it chromed locally.

Zderf

[Whaler]

Hi Fred! Did you get it chromed later or did George send it chromed?? Looks nice.
PS I sent both you and George some build pics of my car back in early Dec or late Nov.. did you guys ever receive them?? Just got my car home 3 weeks ago...its about 85 to 90% finished.

Maybe address's are toast.

Tim

[Mark IV]

I have had EXTENSIVE experience with these tanks in my previous business. Ford parts serviced almost all the applications with the C1AZ-8A080-A part number. In reality there are 5 or 6 versions. Differences are in where the rad cap sits, left or right, front or back and how the overflow tube comes off the neck. All will interchange, the differences are only important if you are building an "exact" car. Common problems involve the lower half of the tank coming loose from the bracket, this is due to the replacement radiator hoses used on Galaxies and Thunderbirds. The factory hoses were almost a "question mark" shape which allowed the hose to take up the movement of the enginge when reved or torqued. replacement hoses were "l" shaped and put extra strain on the tanks causing the solder to let go were it meets the bracket. Also leaks where the tanks meet is common and many boneyard units will show signs of "bubba repair" that is large globs of solder placed on the seam in a futile attempt to fix them.

BTW most of the units from Canadian cars had a different supplier and a "CCIAE" number stamped in them.

Rick

[Whaler]

Thanks Rick for the input. I am still waiting to get my tank in the mail. Squeezed the alternator in last night. That Dove Alt. bracket and spacer from Gessford looks nice with the chrome alternator..oh yeah Anyone have a handy belt part # so I can pop out and get one?? March setup 3 pulleys FE
Zderf you must be the same??

Yes I have been wondering what will make the best combination for inlet and outlet hoses to the rad. Thought about stress and strain on the neck as well. I want support so the neck is not taking the "weight" but as you said want freedom of movement for torque and twist.
Have to look at a few configurations.

Tim