Tips on Double Flaring Brake Lines

[OhBuoy]

I am trying to use my Pittsburgh Double Flaring Kit to flare some brake line that I purchased at the local auto parts store. I needed a 24 inch length, and they only sell 20 and 30", so I figured I would pick up the 30 and cut it and throw a flare on the end. I have been practicing, and it seems that whenever I try to use the "Adaptor", the brake line slips through the clamp. Single flares turn out nicely. The line that I got seems to have a fairly thick wall, this may be the problem, although it is double flared.

Could it be the cheap tool I have? Any suggestions for a better tool?

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Tom

[dalola]

Tom,
I've never seen a "portable" flaring tool that did much of a job. Of course, most folks couldn't justify the professional type machines, and all the fixtures that go with it, but that's really the only safe, proper way to do it. After all, we are talking brake lines here...not something to cut corners on. Could you buy the closest length, and do some creative bending and forming, as to "use up" any extra?

How about it, anybody use a portable flaring tool that works properly? I've yet to see one.

Dave

P.S. I would NEVER recommend a single flair for brake lines!

[OhBuoy]

There really is not much room for creative bending. This is the line that runs from my master cylinder to where B&B dropped off the brake lines when they pre-installed them. Is there anyplace that I can custom order lengths from? Would I be able to bring my bent lengths to a shop to have them flared? Any suggestions?

[Bob Putnam]

We've put 100's of flares on lines from 3/16" to 3/8" with an Imperial Eastman set.

[OhBuoy]

Where can one get an imperial eastman set?

[cobrajeff]

I have done double flares with a cheap kit, too - and it gets pretty "trying" to say the least. If this is likely the only double-flare you'll need, I wouldn't go buy another tool - just keep practicing with that first piece of tube that messed up. Be sure to carefully de-burr the tube between the first and second flaring operation.

good luck!

cobrajeff

[Double Venom]

Ohh-boy do I have the tool for you guys!

For 20 plus years we have been using one of those small flaring kits to do double flares. What a pain in the arse. Then I found a small hand held "guaranteed" double flaring tool on the net. Even puts the single bubble on lines for installing fuel lines etc.

$400.00 bucks was a little steep for my needs. Then low and behold I found the kit is available through Snap-On for $308.00. After lusting for this tool for almost a year, 6 complete turnkeys to build at the present time and the will power of a 6 year old in a candy shop...I bought one last month!

It is great. Absolute perfect double flares. Even the "Bubble" flare comes out perfect. I know, a little pricey for the basic home builder that only does an occasional flare, but if a guy was going to do a full car or even more than a couple of cars it is well worth it!

I'll try to post a picture of it tonight. Never heard of the one that Bob mentioned...maybe it's a lot cheaper.

Tom, call me at 740-852-5280 or just e-mail me your adress. I'll make you a 24" (?) line and get it into the mail today. Ok, so I.m having fun with my new toy!

DV

[Clois Harlan]

Got the same kit from B&B and also used the same flaring kit you did with success. Get you a piece of sand paper and rough up your surface on your tubing. Clamp it down again and use a wrench to tighten it as tight as you can and be sure to take a small file or something to clean up the inside edge of the tubing you are flaring.

If all else fails go and buy you some AN4 stainless steel braided brakeline tubing with connections(AN4) for about $18.00. If you can't find the braided line where you are let me know and I will send you a some.

Clois Harlan
918-499-4238

[wadesdad]

Used a Matco brand on stainless. It worked OK. I did break the male part that goes into the line. Lifetime guarantee saved the day.

[BT SNAKE]

I have a 30yr old NAPA flaring set. It works great.
I have dicovered that a bad flare was made because
the proper depth was not set in order for the tool to
have enough or too much material to do the flare.
Also, too often there is a tendency to over tighten the
final flare. If you tighten to the point where it starts to
get hard and stop you will be surprised at what a good
flare you get. Don't try to tighten to the point where
you can't tighten it anymore. The flare will be too large
and it will look more like a single flare. There is a reason
they put a small T handle on that tool. If you have to use a
wrench then I would suspect you are tightening it
to much.
I have a small piece of 3/16ths line with a professional
flare on it. I use this as a gauge to compare to my flares.

Almost forgot...Use a good reaming tool before you flare.
I use one that came in my Makita drill set. I put it
in the drill and apply a small amount of pressure on the
line to clean it up.

Hersh

[Whaler]

"We've put 100's of flares on lines from 3/16" to 3/8" with an Imperial Eastman set."


__________________
Bob Putnam
-E.R.A.-

Hi Bob, were you talking single or double flares?

Also what kind of steel..SS straight lengths or the standard steel steel that comes in rolls?

Thanks
Tim

[CCX33911]

Originally posted by Bob Putnam
We've put 100's of flares on lines from 3/16" to 3/8" with an Imperial Eastman set.

I have used this set to make single AN flares successfully. Most race cars and aircraft use SINGLE flares.

[Bob Putnam]

Just so people are clear on the different flares...

The single flare is typically used with AN fittings. The double flare is how a classic brake line is done. The bubble flare is used with many newer domestic cars and older British and European cars.

The Imperial flaring tool will do single and double flares, but not the bubble flare. I think we got our Imperial from the local auto parts jobber or maybe the Snap-On guy.

[Whaler]

Hi guys thanks for the replies.

I work with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 in SS tubing in the mill where I am at. So I have bent my share of the stuff.
All my tools are imperial eastman and swagelok This is what we run all our industrial airlines (supply and process signals) to all our pneumatic equipment and process valving in the mill.

Here's the diff...for instrumentation the flare is 37.5 deg. not 45, as in automotive applications.

I looked at a few different flaring tools today they ranged from $45 to $130 CDN. Rigid made the expensive better quality one.

What I am hearing from many is the the SS is hard as heck to get a double flare on. Are you guys using the stock brake stuff with the springy covering cut to your particular lengths? At this point you then establish your own flare at the cut end? Are you guys using the coil stuff and straightening it out then bending accordingly?

I would have liked to be able to use the 1/4 inch straight lengths of SS tubing but I guess the fittings would all have to be reduced for all the 3/16 brake fittings etc. Would that work?? Run it in SS 1/4 ..still looking at the flare task.
Lack of safety is definitely a thought in the single flare.

Thanks

Tim

Too bad we couldn't get away with compression fittings...LOL A nut and a ferrule would be so easy.
Darn hydraulics

[Double Venom]

The results:



It appears the "push on" flare is crooked- not so, it's a shadow.



My new tool! I have no idea who makes it, but Snap-On sells it.



Haven't tried stainless lines yet, but since it is a hand held hyrdraulic unit, I don't think it will be a problem!

DV

[Leroy]

In my experience on double flares over the years is to be sure that you tighten the one of the tool and then tighten the other end, and then repeat, this should stop the tubing from slipping. I also put a little oil on the end of the flaring tool and tubing as I tighten down on the end to help stop binding. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Lee

[Slow Dawg]

...that line flaring kit looks like the one Master Power Brakes sells. If fogged memory is right, they are asking $385.00 for it. Looks really sweet but I can't seem to cough up that much money.

Tom, if you haven't got your lines on yet, when you bring your frame back, I'll pop them on for you.



Ron

[CHRIS POTTER]

DV, that flaring tool kit you have is the same one offered by Master Power Brakes. I borrowed theirs, (live near Mooresville) and did the brakelines on the rear of my Cobra, and all the lines on the 34 Ford coupe. Works great, but, pretty pricey for an occasional user. Chris

[Roscoe]

I did my brake lines in stainless from Inline Tube

http://www.inlinetube.com/

and used a flair kit from Rigid. The clamp part went into my benchvise and got a really good grip. Had no problems if I followed the instructions.

Roscoe

[Whaler]

Thanks for the feedback guys...starting to look this over now as well as the fuel line run.

Tim