Upper/Loer "A"s for Mustang II Front End?

renaissance man · #1 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 08:25 AM

Neil (Cobra Dude) mentioned that I could get some extra clearance and turning radius from changing my Front end "A"s from the current "D-shape" that came standard on the Mustang II front ends to the "A-shaped" ones? Since I have 17" wheels the turning radius is Poor at best. At Ford yesterday they also had trouble setting the "Caster" on the front-end alignment due to these "D" shaped A's.

Question is: who makes a good, nice looking set of A's? I'd also while I'm at it get rid of the front shocks and convert to coil-overs that could be cockpit adjustable. Is cockpit adjustability even necessary? I do no track racing.
Now, todays math question is: "If Dave has little money, and he needs to make some necessary adjustments to his cobra, and he doesn't want it to look like crap....how many 7-11's will he have to rob to accomplish his task?

jayscobras · #2 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 09:06 AM

REN, CALL RCC SUSPENSION IN FT. WORTH AT 817-536-3820. ASK FOR DARRYLL AND TELL HIM JAY SENT YOU.

IF I CAN FIGURE OUT WHERE I HAVE SOME PICS FILED I WILL TRY TO SEND THEM TO YOU. THE ONES I GOT FROM HIM LOOK GREAT AND HE IS REALLY GOOD AT WHAT HE DOES.

JAY

Jack21 · #3 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 10:57 AM

Ditto on RCC as one of the more knowledgible MII front suspension shops out there that knows Cobras very well also.

www.dwayne9.addr.com (RCC web site - finally)

The uppers typically need to be "D", not "A" for spring housing clearance.

I'm using 17" also (235's) and turning radius is not limited by the tire unless it's rubbing on a fenderwell. A coil over would let you adjust this. My steering limiter is when the brake caliper contacts the strut rod. Parking is the only time this is encountered.

cobra427hp · #4 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 11:34 AM

Try Barrett Chassis Components at WWW.barrettchassis.com. Great fit, urathane bushings, complete and a GREAT PRICE!

Bill E · #5 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 02:31 PM

This shows the pole position upper control arm. This particular one is not what you need. They do make one with the correct cross shaft for your set-up. The lower arms are pieces we fabricate, and are fully adjustable. The HAL coil-overs can be had to fit your set-up. We have used that configuration in several cars with spectacular results. Completely adjustable. Very poised on the road. We will also have a new spindle available with adjustable bump steer and a larger outer bearing, and will accept our new 13" brakes, and wheels with 5 on 5, or 5 on 4 1/2 bolt patterns. Bill E. EMS

Double Venom · #6 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 03:53 PM

Dave,

Looks like you've got some great advice here. Also Heidt's and Fatman Fabticators make some pretty neat stuff.
DV

renaissance man · #7 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 04:16 PM

Bill E.,

That's a nice lookin setup. Attached are some pics of my current....ah...setup. Let me know what you might be able to do or suggest? You can email me at my home address.

renaissance man · #8 (**permalink**) 01-13-2002, 04:17 PM

Another look.

mickmate · #9 (**permalink**) 01-14-2002, 08:00 AM

I've got a set of Heidts lowers and Factory Five uppers that would fit your application splendidly.
E-mail me if your interested in making a deal.
Cheers Nick

renaissance man · #10 (**permalink**) 01-14-2002, 08:43 AM

Nick,

Can you email me some pics or post them? My email is:
renaissance.man@cox-internet.com

Cheers,

mickmate · #11 (**permalink**) 01-14-2002, 07:58 PM

I'll try this if it doesn't work I'll e-mail ya.

mickmate · #12 (**permalink**) 01-14-2002, 08:11 PM

I have shown the polished stainless ones. The ones I have are plain steel lowers and powder coat black uppers. I looked around at a few options and some are a little dubious on quality(safety) the Heidts stuff is TIG not MIG welded and is a thing of beauty. They are the set up for coil overs. The lowers have a small plate welded to the back of your crossmember to replace the control rod. It looks and works better than the original set up. If you're using a sway bar you can get a bracket from them to attach to the arms.
I can make you a reasonable deal on these, let me know if you're interested.
Cheers Nick

Bill E · #13 (**permalink**) 01-14-2002, 09:09 PM

A lot of the older kits simply don't have the structure in them to support the lower strut rod eliminator control arms. Also, they tend to limit your turning radius as they are of the D style. We have tried that style before, and they're fine, as long as you add material to support them. All of our control arms are double tig-welded, and made from 120 chromali, and comes with all the stock mounting locations for your swaybar, and are set up for HAL coil-over shocks that will bolt into your set-up. Bill E. EMS