Pre-oiler, pre-lubricator, Accusump

Just yesterday a "Pegasus" auto racing supply catalog showed up in my mail box (sometimes I accidentally get catalogs that I like). The website address is www.pegasusautoracing.com and the telephone number is 1-800-688-6946. On page 56 of the 20th anniversary edition is a 2/3 page discussion of the Canton/Mecca, heavy duty Accusump. The reason for all this detail is to say that I have installed a 3 quart, electric-solenoid actuated accusump in my car in an effort to improve engine reliability by decreasing start-up wear.

BTW, a discussion of a pre-luber has begun over in the Cobra Talk section, and this is mentioned there too. Thinking that this information might also be helpful to others still planning to build their engine, I am bringing this into the Tech Discussion part of the forum along with some search terms that others might also use. As you will see in the other thread discussing oil (Filling it with oil"), others already have a pre-oiler or are going to use a technique of spinning-up their oil pump with a drill motor before starting the engine.

Another advantage of the Accusump is it's action as a pressure regulator and reservoir to keep oil flowing through the engine even when the oil pump isn't picking up.

Here is an excerpt from Pegasus' catalog:
" An accusump is a hydraulic accumulator that utilizes a piston to separate the oil from the pressurized air chamber. The inside surface is precision machined and polished to allow the piston to slide freely in response to changes in system pressure. Both manual and electric versions are available. With the manual type, the driver operates the valve and it must therefore be mounted in an accessible location. The electric version [with electric solenoid] is controlled by a switch or can be wired into the ignition system to automatically operate the valve when the ignition is turned on." Not sure I clearly understand all of this, I just know what it does!

They come in increments of 1, 2 and 3 quarts. Diameter is between 3 1/4 " and 4 1/4" and length is 12" to 16"...your basic cylinder. On one end of the cylinder is a pressure gage and on the other is the oil inlet/outlet along with a pressure relief valve. Without oil lines and mounting brackets, prices are $150, $175 and $ 185 respectively for the manual versions and $100 more each for the electric solenoid versions. It takes a few hours to install it. Clamps add $17.50. Installed, it will be around $500, a good investment seeing that the engine is worth thousands. Accusump is a brand name of Canton/Mecca, but there are other manufacturers and approaches as well that might be more adaptable to your machine.

Mine is mounted in front, transversely, between the engine and radiator on the cross-member that seems to be in just about every cobra. The oil filter is remote and mounted on the underside of the same cross-member. Filtered oil flows into and out of the Accusump. The discipline that I'm trying to develop before starting is to turn the key to the middle, prestart position, and to watch the oil pressure rise as I am adjusting my seat belts. As the pressure begins to fall back down from it's peak, after about 15 to 30 seconds, depending upon engine temperature, I then start the engine. The reason that I wait that long is to let the oil fill all of the passages and to begin falling back into the pan. This way, I believe that everything is oiled before starting.

I've convinced myself that my engine will live a whole lot longer with this pre-oiler and that it will easily pay for itself over the life of the engine. My hope is that this post will save at least one one of your engines from a premature demise.

All the best,
Randy Klein


[This message has been edited by Randy Klein (edited 02-08-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Randy Klein (edited 02-08-2000).]

Randy,
I have seen the Accusump installed on some Cobras that see serious track time. These guys say that oil pressure does not drop off like it did before adding the Accusump. I will be installing one on my 351W before track season starts. I also beleive that they will add many miles to engine life.
RACER X #99

I've had accusumps on my roadrace cars for years. They were all manual ones mounted in the cockpit, and I never had any trouble with them. I remember a fellow racer once installed one in his vw rabbit IT car from my advice. A few weeks after installing it he was at a regional race at memphis. He had replaced the oil pan gasket and forgot to tighten the drain plug. During his qualifying session his drain plug fell out and he didn't even notice because he never lost oil pressure. A worker displayed the "meatball" flag (letting him know that he had a mechanical problem), but not knowing how serious it was he drove the car all the way to the pits before shutting it off. Didn't do any damage to the engine at all, but nearly everyone there wanted to punch him in the nose for putting a stream of oil around the entire course! That weekend the phrase, "kill da wabbit" was muttered a few times.

Racer X#99 and Alan,
Thanks for your feedback. It's a relef to know that something that I stumbled into doing has a solid, technical experience basis to it. Your experience, both personal and observed, is much appreciated.

I forgot to mention that I have the Accusump wired both into the ignition and into a separate switch that allows me to rev the engine to increase oil pressure, then to close the valve before letting the rev's drop off. This process stores oil at a higher pressure for faster oiling at startup.
If you fellows have any other suggestions for using the pre-oiler, I'd welcome it.

All the best,
Randy Klein

I just ordered the 3 quart electric with check valve and brackets.

Sure would like some tips on installing it. I understand it has a 20 page manual... but those never compare to the information posted here.

May I grovel?

Thanks.... Zderf

No Problem,

I'll send a verbal description and a schematic to you separately by Wednesday, PM.

All the best,
Randy

Zderf, could you post the part #'s and price?

Thanks, Scott S.

Electric 3 quart Accusump P/N 1241-Elec; $285

Mounting Clamps P/N 1246; $17.50

Check valve P/N 3065-1/2npt; $17.50

From:
Pegasus Auto Racing
1-800-688-6946 www.pegasusautoracing.com

Needed yet are the lines and fittings to plumb it in. Still sorting that out...

Zderf

FYI - We also recommend the Accusumps to our customers. A very good engine safety measure and a nice pre-oiler. For Club Cobra members, they would be available for 15% off.
$242 for the 3qt electric or $168 for the 3qt manual.

Rob,

This is great! I never imagined that so many would take hold of the preoiler and want so much information about it. If you also have a complete recommendation for an interface setup including block filter mount attachment or replacement, hoses, remote filter attachment, oilcooler attachment, check valve and hoses, I think that many would be very interested judging by the questions coming in on my e-mail.

All the best,
Randy Klein

[This message has been edited by Randy Klein (edited 02-25-2000).]

Having just replaced the rod and main bearings from last year's season, I'm really hoping the Accusump will help keep the oil pressure up in the turns. I've got the three quart manual one, which will be mounted on the passenger side of "the hump." ("Sorry baby but hold real still while I reach over there and pre-lubricate my crank, if you know what I mean....")Even with the Canton road race sump, I've seen oil pressure drop 30 psi in hard left turns, which makes the bearings unhappy. Will be interesting to see if this helps.

Best reeeeeegards,

Tom T.

Have a remote filter and I plumbed the Accusump into the outlet side of filter. According to installation data, this eliminates need for the check valve, as backflow valve in filter acts as a check valve.
I purchased the 2 qt electric unit due to space restraints. I have pre-lubed the engine without the Accusump and will pre-lube with it to check for leaks, keep system lubed, etc.
Great piece of kit and looks super installed.
Hank
FFR 1776

Hey Rob.... now I find out!!!! Just spent $285 on the thing W/O your discount. Poop.

On the remote oil filter block acting as the check valve, thats great nuze!!! Hank, I assume you came off of the filter block using the port marked with the arrow pointing away from the filter? Also, how did you mount it? I'm looking at 3/4" round frame cross member which does not lend itself well to the stock clamps which are meant to mount ot a flat surface. I see that the clamps properly located on the cylinder are critical.

Any advice?

Thanks... Zderf

[This message has been edited by Zderf (edited 02-26-2000).]

Zderf,
Correct on the location of plumbing for the Accusump.
Mounting is planned for two flat vertical brackets welded to X frame. To these, two flat brackets at right angle to vertical brackets will mount the Accucump. This will alow Accucump and its mount brackets to be removable for engine pullout without cutting and rewelding any brackets.
I can't bolt through X frame directly as brake lines on the other side.
Hank
FFR 1776

Just had my fabricator in to look at the Accusump mount. I was going to be satified with painted iron. He pipes up that it sure would look good in stainless. Well, thats what it is going to be.
Come to find out, he has done alot of stainless work on show cars. I wish I had known this earlier.
Better living through shiney, non-oxidizing metals.
Hank
FFR 1776

Hank,

Better living through Stainless Steel? Sounds just right to me. My brackets are black painted steel and blend well with my black frame, but stainless sounds just right!

Thanks for the suggestion!

All the best,
Randy Klein

Randy,

Get this. He wants to know if I want a SS dash. I am soooooooo tempted.

Hank
FFR 1776

Looks like carbon steel for me, painted black to match the cross member. I have the brackets the same size as the footprint of the mounting clamps.

Here's an observation on the Accusump. It should be charged with 7psi. The guage that comes on it is 0-160psi range with 10psi increments. Try reading that. Why 160 pounds?Geeze.

Have replaced it with a 0-100psi liquid filled 2.5" max pressure indicating guage, with 1 psi increments. One will have to use a tire pressure guage to be accurate on the pre-charge pressure.

Zderf

Do I need a preluber? How long can the motor sit without being run? I don't winterize the car in hopes of jumpng out on a nice day, and I typically try to start it every 4 weeks. Is that often enough? Can I actually go longer?

Bill

Hi Bill,

Well, I start Mariah at least once a week after letting the preoiler do it's thing. I do believe, however, that a pre-oiler will increase an engine's reliability based on all that I've heard here and from the basic oil commercials that almost always refer to start-up as being one of the most wearing times on an engine.

As for whether or not a pre-oiler is mandatory, probably not since most cars don't have them (is it a plot to increase the frequency of engine rebuilds?).

I hope this helps you, and all the best.

Randy Klein