What kind of oil is everyone running?

[dalola]

B in B,
Just got off the phone with a gentleman from the Ford Motorsport Tech Line.

His recommendation for Ford crate motors:
NON synthetic(no brand) 20w-50 for about 3000 miles, then Mobile 1 15w-50 from there on.

Just FYI.

Dave

[CobraEd]

Dave's got it right. Heavier is better!!! When you are running full throttle at 6 grand, you want VISCOSITY!!! Film strength man, . . . film strength!!!

Ed

[JAM1775]

I followed FMS advice a while back and now use 10W-50
synthetic for the early morning cold starts and the high
rev abuse .

[Zderf]

I might challenge the notion that synthetic oil does not pose leakage potential on older wide clearance FE's. Try that switch on a factory tolerance BB FE after running fossil lube for 5,000 miles and see what happens...

390FE, 0.030 over
Hydraulic lifters
Comp cam kit
Dual plane intake w/ 750 Holley
Hi volume oil pump
Remote filter running Moroso 22470 filter
3 qt Accusump making for a 8 quart oil change with Castrol 20W50

No leaks
No over temps
No under pressures

Zderf

[Bob In Ct]

I'm currently using Mobil1 5W-30 and a Mobil1 filter. My pressure stays between 50 and 60 PSI all the time.

I use the lighter weight synthetic for the following reasons. The oil in my SPF never really gets that hot due to the oil cooler. Since it is typically at around 180 degrees F the viscosity of the 5W-30 is adequate. The lower viscosity oil is better able to move through the plumbing, filter and cooler thus producing less line pressure loss. I live in Connecticut and like to run the car every 2 or 3 weeks during the winter. The thinner oil flows well even on cold days (during winter drives I cover the oil cooler). Since most engine wear occurs during start-up, I feel the thinner/synthetic combo offers the best protection against start-up damage. If you're intent on using a thicker oil at least use a synthetic.

I have done a fair amount of research on oil filters. Much of it says Fram filters are low quality. Their advertising is light years ahead of their filter technology. The Mobil1 filter has 350 square inches of filter paper which is about twice that of the Fram. Just go to Yahoo and type in "oil filter comparison" or go to www.frankhunt.com.

I would be very afraid of oil additives. I'm always amazed at how many owners use conventional 20W-50 and then add the additive. Why so thick? Do all those owners really think that Castrol, Pennzoil and Quaker State don't know how to produce an adequate product? Most additives are snake oil. I had an uncle who used to add kerosene to his motor oil, he would swear on a stack of bibles that his cars ran better. Remember when STP was the rage?

In summary - consider the synthetics, use a high quality filter, use a viscosity that is appropriate for the kind of driving you do. Remember, very high oil pressure can be a sign of lack of oil flow. If your driving is to and from shows the thinner oil is a must. If you live above 3,500 rpm then the thicker oil may be a better choice. Change the oil a lot. I change mine every 2,500 miles. Considering what I have invested the $40.00 seems cheap.

Bob

[Jack21]

Thanks Bob in Ct. Like everything else around here, once you cut through the advertizing hype, you find out what works, and what doesn't. And whose product is more high tech than their advertizing. And again, it's the guys with the dirty hands (and grease on their keyboards)who know. Specifically which Mobil1 oil filter are you using? Can your 351W in a SPF use a full length Ford filter? In a CR, it's too long, and the other options I found are shorter ones that Ford uses in some vans #43, and the 302 Mustang II #16. I seem to recall the #43 cross references to SB Mopars as well.

Like many of you, before synthetics, I used Quaker State, Valvoline, or Castrol; changed oil and filter every 3 - 5K miles, and could eat off the inside of the rocker covers after 100k miles.

[Mike Madonna]

I was wondering what brand of synthetic your're using that's a 10W-50? I know Mobil 1 is a 15W-50.
Thanks!

[Tom T.]

Additives like ProBlend and ProLong are very thin, not at all like the honey concoctions such as STP.

TT

[Back in Black]

~~~~dalola~~~~Thanks for the help. I certainly shall follow that advice for at least the first two oil changes. Did the rep say amything as to why not synthetic multi vis ? Or is that Mobil 1 multi vis? I have not used it....although I hear it's good,...my brand has been Castrol.


~~~~Bob In Ct~~~~ I tend to agree, use the lowest viscosity that is safe...my trick always has been, in the summer, or in a hard used or hot running motor, if possible, add a few quarts of heavier oil first, (20-50) during the oil change...then top off with the 10-40 or 10-30...that seems to give a chance at least for both contingencies. I will not be driving my cobra during the winter, and If I do, in an emergency of some kind, it will at least start the first time in a heated garage...(good idea about a cover for the oil filter, I assume you mean a port cover, do you mount that on the grill? With ties?) so at this point, barring more data, after the first two oil changes, it will be either standard multi vis oil such as Mobil, or Castrol, OR multi vis synthetic...my original plan was to blend the two.....I am doing so right now in my F350 hi cube truck, 460 motor...I am not using straight synthetic because it uses oil, and it would be a waste to use straight synthetic on the old girl, and I figure the standard oil may soothe the old gaskets a bit. Maybe it's faulty theory ?

If it is a good idea, I will use the full 15-50 synthetic, the castrol synthetic is 5-50, which also sounds good to me.

[dalola]

B in B,
The Ford rep did not say, but it is generally regarded in the engine world that rings wear-in better with a petroleum based oil. It's not as "slippery" as synthetic. Of course, there are many variables to this, depending on how the engine was set up. But for most, break-in should be with NON synthetic oil. If the rings don't seal properly, oil consumption could be an issue, especially as the miles add up.

All Mobil 1 oils are 100% synthetic. Don't confuse Mobil 1 with the regular Mobil oil, which is petroleum based. The multi viscosity helps maintain oil performance in a wide range of temperatures. Most of us deal with anything from around 30 degrees, to over 100. Pretty hard to get a single weight oil to be happy in that! Of course, once the engine is at N.O.T., the oil would be functioning at it's heaviest rating. Also, synthetics virtually never wear out, like a regular oil, but it does get contaminated. This is why the longer change interval. OEM's that do lots of highway miles, it's not uncommon to get 25,000 miles on a change, with synthetics.

Bottom line: ALL modern oils are pretty good. Match the weight and grade to your engine, environment, and driving style.

Dave

[wilf leek]

I forgot to mention when I posted a while back that I also use a 3 qt Accusump with electric valve. Zderf's reply reminded me.

Since my car gets put away blinding hot, and then can sit for a couple of weeks, I always pre-oil the engine with the reserve left in the Accusump before I fire it up again from cold.
In normal driving, I leave the Accusump off, but on the track, I leave it "on" all the time, in case of oil starvation in the turns/under heavy braking.

Comments like "most engine wear happens at startup" are absolutely right. With the Accusump you can 100% avoid this. For the $$$ I got in my engine, the few more it cost to buy that thing seem well worth it.

Also, whatever oil you use, regular changes (I do it every 2500 miles) are worthwhile. The oil may not lose it's characteristics, but the contamination load up will always be there.

On the topic of full size vs shorty oil filters, I personally would rather fit a remote full size filter (or even a twin) before settling for a shorty.

Wilf

[Bob In Ct]

Hey Jack21:

I use the M301, I believe it's a full size filter.

Bob

[SCOBRAC]

Mobile 1.. NASA (Space Shuttle), all Porsches, Ferrari, Calloway, Corvettes and AC all reccomend Mobile 1..