How To Wire Up Dash Warning Lights ?

[FUNFER2]

How do you wire up warning lights for the alternator, hot water temp, low oil pressure, low fuel etc ? Making them blink would be even better. I can perform most everything on a car, but NOT electrical, so explain your knowledge to a no brainer.

[Gaz64]

Generally, all warning lamps are fed with 12v positive in parallel, the other side of each lamp is grounded by a switch, either a oil pressure switch, high engine temp switch, alternator warning lamp circuit etc.

Making them blink could be done with a 2hz "flasher unit" using a 555 timer relay circuit.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

... a 555 timer relay circuit.

There isn't a chance in hell he knows what a 555 is. It's touch and go whether he can wire up a mechanical gauge.

[FUNFER2]

Originally Posted by patrickt

There isn't a chance in hell he knows what a 555 is. It's touch and go whether he can wire up a mechanical gauge.

Correct. Is there any wire looms for this purpose ?

[jon@harrison.ne]

"Generally, all warning lamps are fed with 12v positive in parallel, the other side of each lamp is grounded by a switch, either a oil pressure switch, high engine temp switch, alternator warning lamp circuit etc."

I don't think you want to wire the alternator (charge light) to ground!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

Correct. Is there any wire looms for this purpose ?

No, not really. With the exception of the charging light, all of your other warning lights are just simple "get the ground from the engine" lights that constantly have 12v+ being delivered to them. When the sensor on the engine gives the ground (because the coolant is too hot, the oil pressure is too low, whatever...) then the light comes on. The alternator light also serves to "excite" the charging circuit. If the bulb is burned out, your charging system won't work and, because the bulb is burned out, it won't tell you that it's not working. Some guys will put an audible "alarm" on the system that gives a sound alert if one of the lights has come on for a period of, say, 5 seconds. This is relatively easy to do provided that you use diodes in the feeds to avoid "cross-feeding" all the lights coming on when one comes on. My recommendation is that you first just get the car running, charging, and the idiot lights to come on when you manually ground them out. Save "making them blink," or adding the audible alert, for another day.

[FUNFER2]

I have a new full set of wonderful,...NISONGER gauges.

I don't know if I'll have the time this winter as you know, I need to get my new engine in and running first, but a blinking and/or audible sounds great for me. When it's time, I'll get someone to help, but if I could get or have someone to print me a electrical schematic, I could do it myself.

I also have the complete Canton Accusump Pre-lube system, so I wonder what they have a a warning light.

You're the man buddy, so I'll look into whatever you suggest.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

You're the man buddy, so I'll look into whatever you suggest.

Just get her up and runnin' first. We'll outfit her with the bells and whistles later.

[FUNFER2]

Sounds like a plan.

Can't wait to see & hear the engine with my Borla 8 stack injection and bigger cam.

[patrickt]

... and not everyone is enamored with the AccuSump https://rennlist.com/forums/racing-a...ump-to-me.html

[FUNFER2]

Like a lot of things in life, people that do not know what their doing, can make something so simple to very difficult.

My wife and I are saltwater fish & reef hobbyists, and here as well, people make problems for themselves for no real reason. Like some people try to rush the simple process of cycling a new systems nitrosomonas with loading it with several fish. Then they say the ammonia level spiked, killing the fish,...."why, what happened" ? Because you did not follow the cycle process, nature takes time ! Etc...

Same goes with our cars and it's systems, like a engine package that works together, including a oil pre-lube system. Hook it up correctly and use it properly. Like my question about wiring the warning lights. Rush to get it done,...you're going to have problems.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by jon@harrison.ne

"Generally, all warning lamps are fed with 12v positive in parallel, the other side of each lamp is grounded by a switch, either a oil pressure switch, high engine temp switch, alternator warning lamp circuit etc."

I don't think you want to wire the alternator (charge light) to ground!

The alternator charging lamp has ignition feed on one side like all the other lamps.

The charging lamp is on with the key on engine off, because there is ground from the alternator.
Engine running, the volts is the same on either side of the lamp, and the lamp is out.

[jon@harrison.ne]

Gary, you are correct-I was thinking of the ammeter. Bad mistake.
Jon

[Gaz64]

No worries Jon.

We are all here to help each other.

Gary