Ford External Volt reg terminal question

[Whaler]

Hi gang I have done a search and not really found an answer to my question

I have the external voltage reg with a chrome std Ford alt.
I am using the MSD coil, billet FE distibutor and 6AL
Therefore no ballast resistor

Here's the question what terminals should I be terminating off the volt reg.
I.....?
A....Batt Pos side of the solenioid
S....stator
F....field

I am not quite sure if I have the ammeter or voltmeter yet, but i wll be buying the autometer 7 gage "smiths knockoffs" .

I have read different things about not using all 4..using 3..depends on whether you have a charge light or an ammeter or a voltmeter.?

Last details I have the painless harness and am really just trying to terminate my reg right now...


Thanks
Tim

[Monster]

Tim,

Here is some "early Ford" wiring system info for your regulator

I = Excitor (This is the wire that goes to the charge indicator "idiot light" Your Painless wiring set should have a wire labeled for this purpose)

A = Alternator/Battery connection wired to the "BAT" terminal of the Alternator and to your wire for Alt Power (It should not be directly hooked up to the battery side of the solenoid)

S = Field relay wired to the "S" terminal of the Alternator

F = Field coil relay wired to the "F" terminal of the Alternator

For more details here’s the Painless website technical page http://www.painlesswiring.com/techtip1.htm

Good luck,
Mike “monster”

[Bob Putnam]

<< I have read different things about not using all 4..using 3..depends on whether you have a charge light or an ammeter or a voltmeter.?>>

Using an ignition warning light requires that "I" be connected, even if you are using an ammeter.

If you connect all four now, you can always disconnect one in the future.

[Whaler]

Thnaks alot guys, As I wasn't really into the wiring too deep yet, I had never even thought of looking into the Painless guide. My car came delivered with the wiring harness roughed in and only really needing further termination by me

I had just bought the solenoid and volt reg. and was beginning to wire them up as well as the MSD stuff.

Appreciate the help...

Tim

[Monster]

More on the subject.

I just checked with my Alternator/Starter builder and he provided further info on the mysterious "I" wire.
"I" provides power to the Field relay inside the regulator and is usually connected to the ignition switch "I" and to an "idiot" light. Another way to wire this according to him, is to "jumper" the "I" to "S". I am guessing that your painless probably has the "I" going to the ignition. Either way should work.

good luck,
mike "monster"

[Whaler]

Hello again
Tonight I thought I would chip away at the wiring
I have the plain chrome ford alternator requiring the external reg. (PAW sourced)
I pulled my alt off the engine to start terminating and nothing is labelled on the alt.
I have 3 terminals with insulation on each
post..there is a large red one, a smaller black one and a white one situated more to the center, about the same size as the black

As well there are 2 studs with a single nut on each, but they look to be part of the alternator itself as they are not isolated from the casing at all

-Can I assume red is Batt
-Black is ground
-White is????????


Aren't I one terminal shy??

And for Mike aka Monster..I do have 2 wires in my painless harness...one labeled alternator excitor (whitewire )the other alternator power(red wire )...
As you said no wire should go directly to the batt side of the solenoid. I take it that this alt power wire will be to the red batt terminal on the alt. I connect this to the alt and then there is the additional connection to the "A" terminal on the regulator terminal/ plug. The image below is a painless diagram. Although the numbering has no relevance to my harness , the colors do.
I do have two wires supplied by painless labeled as above..
Just seems like there not much to hook up.The regulator is another story though. I will likely hook up all and not jumper out things as discussed and shown by the dashed lines


So guys what do we call the white terminal on my alt?

Field or Stator??



Thanks

Tim


painless info

[Bob Putnam]

These are your choices. The shunt is not absolutely necessary, but will help initiate charging at low rpm.

[Whaler]

Bob thanks for providing the excellent drawing ( as usual) Your a big help here and I appreciate it.
I will nail down this white terminal on the alternator today and go from here.
Additionally Bob I have to ask does my painless harness take care of those two wires (alt power and alt excitor)
Or do I still have to run seperate wires as shown in your pic( you show them as "from battery and fused power"

I wonder if painless is taking care of these for me by providing what they have

Tim

[Bob Putnam]

Whaler,

Unfortunately, I've never seen a painless harness. We make our own.

The battery lead (minimum 10 gage) should come directly from the battery or the hot side of the starter solenoid. The rest of the switched power can come from any convenient source. We just use a fused connection from the ignition accessory terminal.

[John McMahon]

...are there any stock looking, period correct Ford alternators that use the one wire connection (no external votlage regulator)?

I've done a search in Google and all I come up with are the chrome ones from Summit and Jegs.

Most guys that want the one wire alternators have tried to switch to a GM alternator.

[Whaler]

Hi Bob I guess where I am confused is wondering whether the painless alt power wire replaces the alternator output wire that normally runs over to the positive side of the starter solenoid (Heavy gauge)

Assuming the only 2 painless wires (alt Power and excitor)go to their corresponding spots, It seems I still have to run the alt output wire as well to the battery side of the solenoid .

How else can the battery charge if this wire was not there.
A little confused.
Thanks for the patient help



Tim

[Whaler]

red = Battery or alt power
black= Stator
white= Field

case stud is ground

Nothing on the alt was marked as it was re-chromed and sold thru PAW..all I had was colours to go by.

Bob I will be wiring according to the diagram with no ignition lamp.

Tim

[Bob Putnam]

Heres the back of the alternator:

[Whaler]

Thanks Bob
Do you make these drawings as we go along??
What do you suggets for the heavy Alt output wire gage size?
I have a simple 60 amp output

10 ga. or 8 ga.?
Also should there be a fusible link in this line as well??
My painless harness takes power in from the same terminal off the batt side of the solenoid and routes it into the fusepanel with 10 ga and a fusible link. So would it be redundant to have a fusible link in the alt output line to the solenoid?

Tim

[Bob Putnam]

Tim,
I
If the alternator wire is less than 4 feet, 10 gage is OK. Any longer and I would tend toward 8 gage. If the wire isn't well protected, a fusible link is nice - but that's just one more thing to break at an inopportune time.
I've got lots of drawings from our manual, and I've been working on a "universal" troubleshooting book for about 10 years. I try to document most of what I've done anyway, so making the first drawing was just a matter of merging two others. The second is in our wiring unstructions.

[Whaler]

Awesome Bob the run is about 3 feet tops
Alt to front pass side footbox.
I will do 10 ga. here..
Thanks again and keep up the goodwork..as many of us here rely on you as a great resource here.

Tim

[niles]

Bob;
Since I'm starting to wire mine from scratch; I was wondering what fuse panel do you use; or do you make your own; or will you sell me one?
thnaks
gn

[Specialk]

Bob,

I just want to say THANK YOU for all your tech info.

Kris

[Bob Putnam]

GN,

We buy bulk fuse blocks from Waytek but you might consider a more complete package from Painless or American Autowire

[ronzara]

Tim,
Thanks for the link, I ran a search, but got nothing. Your questions are very similar to mine. Bob is most helpful!
Which Painless Harness did you go with?
Is it pretty easy to deal with?
How much cutting and splicing is involved?
EM offers an "in-house" 3 part harness that looks really good but is EXPENSIVE... over $400.
Does yours include a dash wiring harness (gauges, lights, switches)? Thanks!!