Bleeding Clutch ...

[Denny S.]

Ok my next question is. Is bleeding a clutch the same procedure as bleeding brakes ? THe only problem I forsee is that the clutch bleeder is low on the car .. Underneath to be exact.. I'm assuming that besides bleeding there isn't any other adjustment ?

[renaissance man]

Correct in your assumption that there is no other adjustment provided that the hydraulic throwout bearing is the proper fit.

To bleed: Get under the car and have someone in the drivers seat. Have that person pump the clutch 3 times and hold it in on the 4th time. While the clutch pedal is held in, crack the connection and the line will sputter and the pedal will go soft to the floor. As the line stops sputtering close the fitting. Repeat as necessary. I had to do this 10-12 times before all of the air was out of the line.

Oh yea...I suggest filling the Master Cylinder for the clutch to the "Max" line. This will allow for the 1/4 cup the you may lose while bleeding thus keeping your fluid level in between Min and Max.

Regards,

[Roscoe]

Actually you could probably gravity bleed it to satisfaction.

However let me give you one warning.

You must have a pedal stop. If you do not and the bearing travels too far you WILL damage it. Very important you have that pedal stop and have it adjusted before you start pumping it alot. You do not want to overstroke the bearing.

Roscoe

[Denny S.]

There is no pedal stop in my car unless you count the floor.
THe clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor.

[renaissance man]

I removed my pedal stop and no issues. It was a bigger pain than it was worth.

[Roscoe]

I am taking this from the Tilton installation manual and I am sure that this applies to all hydraulic bearings.

"IMPORTANT! A pedal travel limiting device such as a pedal stop MUST be installed to prevent overstroking of the bearing and/or clutch. Overstroking even once may damage clutch and/or release bearing assembly. The stop should be adjusted just beyond the point of full clutch disengagement. The bearing travel (freeplay + release bearing travel) must not be greater than the maximum available stroke of .700"

Roscoe

[renaissance man]

I saw that too, Roscoe but, as a 1" maximum and to set a pedal stop at 7/8" to avoid this. It just doesn't seem to work right for me? I have a better feel for it and have no seals blowing any longer in the master cylinder.

[Bob Putnam]

In case you didn't see this on the other thread...

Denny,

When you bleed the system, make sure that the upper hose (the one that has the bleeder fitting) is slanted up all the way toward the bleeder. If there's air at the junction of the slave and the hose, it'll tend to draw air back in.

[Whaler]

Good to see this thread as I have to do this soon as well. I have the same throw-out and I will have to look into this pedal travel issue....I just finished running the brake and clutch hard lines.

How can it overtravel if it is adjusted for all the correct measurements? Its very detailed setting it up for clearances etc...then ultimately if acts against the clutch fingers anyhow.??
My instructions mentioned something that was no longer required and I thought it was a mechanical stop or finger?? Thats off the top of my head though and I will check it out.

What did you guys do to keep the flex lins back off the pressure plate?? I think they are fairly rigid but I recall Butcher of Baghdad Andy chewing threw a line or 2

I would like to secure them back away from the spinning mass..maybe a pico clamp or 2 with a hole drilled and tapped in the scattershield opening??


Okay I went in to the vaults and found my instructions ( Macleod Unit) I have a note stapled to the top that says "Stop screw and bracket no longer used with this application". Yet on page one it shows many references to Clutch pedal travel and that "overtravel can overload internal release bearing causing O-Ring failure..Pedal travel must be properly calibrated to prevent bearing damage"
So what guives here?? My instructions are what I got withe the unit 2 years ago. My builder set it all up for me and emphasized how important the clearance adjustments were when he installed it along with my motor and tranny....
According to this a travel stop and bracket is no longer required...maybe macleaod was to cheap to make up new instructions as the addendum is a scrap of paper with the message typed in in plain jane font.
Last page on the back shows a stop bracket in Fig 4 maybe thats the stop brakcet they refer to as no longer required...while clutch pedal travel is another thing entirely?

Tim

[Whaler]

Page 3 describes bleeding the unit

"Fill master cylinder with DOT 3 Blake fluid not silicone fluid or damage to o-rings will occur. After master is full, bleed bearing the same way as you would for brakes. ie. pump pedal 3 or 4 times hold down on pedal and open bleeder screw on bearing bleeder line. This will release fluid and air trapped in the system. Do this until all the air is out. Pressure bleeding is recommended to evacuate all the air form the system. Once bleeding is complete, bring fluid level back up in master cylinder, but not to top. Leave fluid down 1/2 to 3/4" from the top this allows fluid to return when the bearing self adjusts.

Unlike brakes the fluid level will rise in the master as the clutch wears not lower "

Tim

[Jerry Chabino]

Guys,

This is why I hate Hydro bearings !!! I'm an old external slave cylinder guy. yep I have a hydro bearing on my Unique but I DO NOT LIKE IT ! It's a wussie set up.