Changing from MII column....Ignition questions..

[Brent Mills]

So I am switching to a push start button (no key) after I changed out the column for an original style type. So now the fun part...The wiring.

I don't know if all standard auto columns use a mechanical type ignition, but the MII column has a little bar that pushes into a electrical box thingy as you turn the key. Anyone know what each of the wires are for that box? It would make life easier for me if I knew what each of them were before I go playing with wires.

Thanks for any help.

[Jack21]

Hi Brent, try to help if I can. I don't know what kind of a car you have, or what information is available from a wiring schematic standpoint in your assembly manual, but here goes.

Didn't know any kit used a MII column per se'. Typically the Chevette is used.

This is pretty generic to all ignition switches, and can be checked/verified with a volt/ohm meter. A Radio Shack meter for $15 - $30 will do nicely.

Doesn't matter if switch is behind dash, or remote by a pushrod on the column, they all work the same way.

1) You have a power in lead. It will have +12v all the time with key off.
2) There is an accessory lead. It is +12v in acc position and run position, but off in start. Typically powers your radio and other ignition switch powered accessories, signal lights, & wipers. Lights, horn, e-flashers are powered separately.
3)There is an ignition lead that is +12v in run, and start. This is ignition, electric choke, and alternator energize.
4) Start. This is +12v in start, and runs to the starter solenoid. Typically, this circuit will route through a safety switch on the transmission to only allow starting in park or neutral (auto), or neutral (manual).

Check your leads with the meter; use DC voltage setting above 12volts, red meter wire to the column lead, black meter wire to a ground. Make a drawing or sketch of the column switch, and as you check each lead, make notes of which one is hot (+12v) in which key position.

Or, if you're uncomfortable checking live circuits, use the ohms or resistance setting on the meter. Then disconnect the battery. The resistance will swing across the scale to 0 with each hot circuit.

Once you've identified which wire runs to the starter solenoid, you can clip it off the column plug and run it to a start button on the dash. The other end of the switch should run to a chassis ground. The rest of the keyswitch functions should remain unchanged.

I always crimp, solder, and shrink wrap interior connections, and grease engine compartment and exterior connections before shrink wrap.

Hope this helps. e-mail me if you need any more info.

[Jim Werth]

I'll give it a try. Male connector wires yellow/blue is for the horn. White/red is for the hazard flasher.Dark blue is for horn ground. Green/orange is for left rear turn signal. Orange/blue is for right rear signal. Light blue is for the turn flasher. White/blue is for right front turn signal. Green is for the stop light. Green/white is for the left front turn signal. Black/purple hash marks is for ignition buzzer. Hope that helps some. Jim

[Brent Mills]

Hey, thanks guys!!! I'm not sure if it's a MII column or not, but it sure was big and ugly!! I appreciate the step by step, and I should be able to work through that next weekend.

Thanks again, and if anyone has additional input, don't hesitate to respond.

[Rick Parker]

Brent: The wire "thingy" is the actual mechanical device that converts roational motion (twisting the key) into linear motion and slides the buss bars inside the switch mounted on the lower portion of the steering column so that electrical energy is available to the electrical system when the key is turned. When the key is in the "OFF" position the rod slides the buss bars
and breaks the connection, and also mechanically locks the column. High Security in the manufacturers eyes ....only!

Rick.......

[427sharpe]

Brent--I can send you a wiring diagram from Mitchell if you like...
email me @ sharpe427@charter.net