Setting up Front end

mustangmendez · #1 (**permalink**) 03-18-2002, 07:21 AM

I have a CMC Cobra with a 392w t5 ,just bought tubular 1" narrow upper and lowers ,mustang 2 front end coil overs .My Question is what sould be the best spot in my engine bay for the 392w slightly foward ,back tilt ? how abought cam center line , Rack and pinion 4.5 turn lock to lock 3.75 I have found nothing less .
I want a all around car that will GO and stick !! I will be running 17s Front and rear.I am just starting the frame work no body on the car so I can set it up very easy .
Mustang Mendez

Jack21 · #2 (**permalink**) 03-18-2002, 07:04 PM

Not sure we all understand your questions. Could you separate them all out for us please.

Front suspension setup. What are you narrowing??? There aren't a lot of options on what you can do with MII suspension geometry, before car behaves entirely differently than what you expected.

Engine & trans height and positioning. So that crank pulley clears front crossmember, carb & air cleaner clears hood, and sidepipes sit straight. Other than shims, not a lot of options here either.

The thought of anyone building a CMC scares me though.

mustangmendez · #3 (**permalink**) 03-18-2002, 07:55 PM

Ok Let me unscatter my mubojumbo :
I am installing Tubular upper and A arm lower control arms that are 1 inch narrow than the norm tube arms for wider front tires and deleting the strut rod on the lower arms with coilover shocks 500 lb Carrera springs. Mustang 2
That is what I have on the front end .I want to know what rack @pinion 4.5 lock to lock or 3.75 ,or less but will this make it more squally ? I am also installing a 392 w small block and t5 tranny If you have ever seen some drag race cars they will tilt the front of an engine to throw the weight to the rear wheels .I can position the eng front or back 1/2 to 1 "helping the front to rear ratio If I need redesign my firewall No problem foot wells are to small anyway,headers I will hand make Carburetor may clear moving the engine up or down may need to change oil pan no cross bar in my way .Center line of the crankshaft /camshaft help the balance of the car . I own a Body /Paint Mech Shop so tools are not a problem , but never have designed a car just restore to oem .I hope that helps ..
Thanks Mustang Mendez
I have seen worst than CMC kits
Cobra Neil has a nice CMC

Jack21 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-19-2002, 07:48 PM

Food for thought.

Send your control arms back to where you got them, and ask them so send you standard length arms. You are not going to like how the car steers if you bolt your shortened arms in. Strut rod eliminator "A" arms are OK. Go to heidts.com and read up on Mustang II front suspensions.

Get wheels with 1" more offset if you need to move the wheels in.

Send your 500# springs back and get the 375# springs. Your front end will feel like the wheels are bolted to the frame. The Windsor, particularly if you use aluminum heads is too light for 500# springs.

The engine needs to be just low enough so you can close the hood with the air cleaner installed. Then you might have 4" - 5" clearance between the road, and the bottom of your bellhousing. Not a bunch. (Nice & slow over any speedbumps.)

You can move the engine back an inch or two, but it might be more hassle than it's worth with all the other changes you'd have to make. You're practically sitting on the differential as it is.

The engine & trans needs to sit so that the sidepipes are level with the body.

If you use the "R" heads, you'll have to weld up a set of headers, because the stock ones won't fit.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your build.

mustangmendez · #5 (**permalink**) 03-20-2002, 09:48 PM

Ok Good Info Now I am really confused ..
But I will figure it out .
Thanks : Anyone else have wood for the fire ????
Mustang Mendez

Jack21 · #6 (**permalink**) 03-21-2002, 07:41 PM

Didn't mean to confuse you.

The MII front suspension is a good one, but it's not a good idea to make arbitrary changes to its geometry, or it won't work properly.

The 500# springs are too stiff for a Windsor motor. Use 375's instead.

The Flaming River manual rack should work fine.

Put the engine in in the stock location for your kit.

mustangmendez · #7 (**permalink**) 03-22-2002, 07:10 AM

Jack 21
If You have a speed way catalogue the upper arms are #910-34326 1 " Narrower than stock & The lower are Lower Offset no strut style for coil over shocks 1" narrower #910-34337 I don't believe this move the ball joint position .Shock kit 255-3336 ----
2558m500 Coil over spring . What Sway bar are you using ?
Mustang Mendez
www.speedwaymotors.com

Jack21 · #8 (**permalink**) 03-22-2002, 07:54 AM

Speedway motors has been in the street rod business for a long time, but have never used any of their hardware. They do offer the best price on the 393W stroker kit, even better than Summit. Wouldn't consider myself qualified to advise on quality of, or wisdom of using their MII suspension components, particularly if modified from OEM dimensions and geometry. It might work just fine, or it might be a mistake.

First, read what Heidts has to say about MII front suspensions on their website.

Next, talk to Daryll at RCC Specialty Products. He's in your back yard (Ft. Worth) (817) 536-3820. RCC is a suspension shop specializing in MII setups, and is very familiar with Cobras. He has tubular uppers, lowers, strutless lowers (need to weld in brackets), and Carrera coil over springs & shocks. Darryl likes to talk to customers building cars, so it won't be a 5 minute phonecall.

500# springs should be used on a big block. 375#'s on a Windsor. And even the 375's are a little tight on a aluminum head Windsor.

Am using factory (CR) front & rear sway bars. Car corners flat.

CMC's have some peculiarities of their own concerning wheel sizes and offsets. Talk to someone with a CMC, or who has built a CMC about this.