SPF Coolant Bubbling..

[cdog]

Yesterday, while driving my SPF, I smelled coolant.

Water Temp was about 90 deg. cent. I looked and saw coolant bubbling out of the hole in the top of the catch can. Fans were not on.

What would cause this?

Also, when I apply the brakes, something underneath clunks the frame loudly (tranny?). When I first accelerate from a light, it clunks back. Lke it moves forward and back... Could this be a bad tranny mount?

Thanks,
C

[LS427SC]

Hey cdog, check your rear end mounts for the clunk. Had the very same noise with mine and I found some loose bolts on my trailing arms.

Randy

[FOCS]

cdog ~ keep me posted on what you find out.

FOCS

[ERA535]

cdog -

I don't want to be an alarmist, but you may want to check for a bad head gasket - that is one of the things that could cause bubbling as you describe. Check using some Block Checkr -

As to the noises - definitely a loose trans or rear end mount.

Do yourself a favor - something everyone should do at least once a year - crawl under your car and check ALL nuts and bolts.

[blykins]

This may sound stupid, but you may wanna check and make sure your thermostat isn't sticking shut. Pull it out and boil it in some water...see if it opens...

[cdog]

I recently had the thermostat housing removed and re-installed as it was leaking. I wonder if that may have caused a problem...

[blykins]

I wouldn't think that merely removing and reinstalling the housing would cause a problem...but thermostats do go bad rather quickly. It would be something quick to check out. Could be a $5.00 solution too.....

[Bannon]

Could the thermostat been installed backwards? On some setups it is imposible to do but others it is easy to do. If it's in backward the pressure could prevent it from opening all the way causing reduced flow.

just my $.02

JB

[blykins]

That's what I was thinking...I've seen people do it on import cars...

[cobish]

check the valve on the overflow canister, located below the puke tank, this valve should be tight you may have to use a small pair of channel locks to tighten.
good luck

[poodz]

cdog,
If your catch tank has a petcock on the bottom, open it and drain it into a bucket. The small hole in the top (from witch your coolant is bubbling) is an "overflow" which means that the tank is full. The EPA doesn't like an overflow hose draining right out to the ground, like in the old days, which is now the reason for catch tanks. I have a Jaz catch tank on mine and had to do this once at about 1500 miles. Then check coolant level in puke tank. As far as the clunks, like ERA535 advises, get under your car and check ALL nuts and bolts. Good Luck

[427orFIAisOK4me]

C;
The minor boil over could be just normal expansion of the fluid.. Have you recently added some? If not then it may just be an old cap (does not hold full pressure). If it not the cap get it checked-out before you cook the motor.

The "chunk" could be the tranny... Keep you hand on the shifter when you brake & accel, if it's the tranny I bet you feel movement as you hear the sound. It also could be the rear-end... The top mount for my SPF (#396) broke last month.


Hope my rambling helps

[Bill Wells]

My system has the cap on the surge tank where you obviouisly fill the system from. this tank also drains to a lower mounted overflow/recovery tank. On the lower tank there is a nipple on the top. When I add fluid /flush or over fill vs 'normal level' and after spirited driving during hot weather i was getting some spittle / overflow/ bubbling out of the top nipple on lower tank . I added a rubber hose to the nipple and ran it down towards the road tie strapping it to the frame. Now any overflow gets directed to the pavement.

However, when the fluid settled in, all air bubbles etc got cleared out and fluid found its natural 'level', i no longer have any bubbling or spittle etc as the hose at the bottom when checked is bone dry, no evidence of any fluid dripping or spraying out. However, til the fluid settled in , after a drain and refill/ flushing, i had signs of moisture there.

re noises, get the car on a lift ideally and start looking for something loose or broken.. if no lift available from a local shop, then jack stands . i don't like to be under a car on jack stands though. good luck . bill wells, spf 156

[Steve R]

Good basic advice on bubbling.
I think the "puke tank" lingo refers to the engine oil breather catch can, not the radiator reservoir.
my guess is noises when you brake and accererate emanate from the suspension.

[ERA535]

SteveR - I think you are right

[Steve R]

Hey buddy, can ya spare a dime??
Pat, nice to hear from ya. Sure would be an easier fix for him.

[Steve R]

Pat,
I guess I could have made a buck today instead of a dime???

[ERA535]

Yeah, I was trying to be controversial as well as introduce the concept of betting to the Club, but decided to do it at another time

[Hal Copple]

to amplify the above comments, if you overfull your coolant, as it gets hot and expands, it will push out under the cap to your black overflow coolant recovery tank, on SPF's usually mounted on the front crossmember. I leave my coolant tank, the big one on the front of the engine, at most about half full, to allow for expansion. My overflow cannister will occasionally bubble over, to , so i also have a hose on the top petcock, going right back down to the pavement, keeps my inner front hood from being spotted with dry coolant. Be sure and keep the petcock on the recovery tank open, or verticle.

As for your drivetrain clink, you need to carefully look under the car, and see what is lose, and get out your wrenches, and check every bolt and nut you can find. Don't over torque and strip them, though. It could be a broken exhaust hanger, drivetrain looseness, or a any of a number of things. These cars make a lot of vibration, and need periodic "nut checks."

[Steve R]

Sage advice...