Now comes the dash...questions

[Whaler]

Hi guys
My Autometer gages just arrived ( in jig time too from Tristate)
I will be tackling the aluminum dash blank.

1)What size hole saws to use for a 2 inch and 4 inch gage and allowing for the dash covering to come thru as well?? Any tips on cutting these holes...new holesaws??

2) What OD size are the more correct indicator lamps....

3) I want a fairly correct placement of dash components and have an excellent 427 S/C layout.....for the components I won't be using what should I do...IE I have no heater therefore need no blower switch/knob, I do not plan on the alt. warning lamp. one less indicator lamp....I don't have the washer pump (another knob) but I do have the wipers..Horn switch will be in the wheel not on dash. No fuel pump switch mine is mechanical
that sort of thing... Should I skip them in the the dash??

So what I am asking is should I install a somewhat condensed version of the original dash...would that still be good or install all the proper layout even though some stuff would have no real use.

5 of 12 switches/knobs/lamps are to going to be used in my car
a,b,f,g, and i. all N/A

Sounds very dumb to ask, but I am asking..lol

Thanks
Tim

[Bud Man]

Tim:

A great source for advice on correct guage and lamp placement is a website that a gent in Australia has put together that details the specs of both 289 and 427 cars, street and S/C. It is:

http://users.pipeline.com.au/bryanw/

You will find diagrams of all dashes with the correct placement of gauges. They are, however, for RHD cars, so just reverse them for your needs (I am assuming you are building a LHD car).

As for hole diameter, mike your gauge diameter and cut your holes for a fit as close as possible. The ORIGINAL indicator light bezels measure approx 7/16".

A tip: When you cement your covering (the original S/C's used Vynide, not leather), be sure to let the application cure for a couple of days before you trim the holes, as most of these materials - including leather - will shrink, leaving you with exposed aluminum possibly outside of the gauge bezels.

Hope this helps.

Bud

[Whaler]

Bud
Thanks for the reply....nice to get tips from the experiences of guys who have been down this road.
I am fine on placement locations...its just inclusion of what and what not to place that I wonder about.

I plan on using some kind of vinyl on the dash..and a thin foam backing of some sort. My seats are leather and thats where the leather stops. Dash and doorpanel hopefully the same material in black. I found a nice lamp in all colours required with a chrome bezel. Had to ask for the size..thanks for that tidbit as well

Lamps

One thing for sure the dash and two door won't be alot of material.

Tim

[gomersdad]

Hi Tim; I would not put any foam behind your vinyl, just glue right onto dash. cut holes in your dash then cover it and cut material out for guages, would not fold material into holes. a tip for drilling your holes out is to back it up with a piece of wood. also your building the car for you? so place things where they work and look good to you!!!

[Rick Parker]

I have found the holes cut by a hole saw in aluminum do not turn out real accurate and require alot of massaging with a file. If you have access to a machinist or can do it yourself in a Bridgeport/vertical mill, attach the dash panel face down to a 2x10 board about 5 1/2 ft long. Layout the gauge and hole locations on the reverse side. Attach the panel further with screw in the center of the proposed gauge centers. Then use a very slow speed and an adjustable cutter. You can adjust the cutter to remove the EXACT amount to make exact diameter and fit. Just be sure the speed is slow because if the cutter catches the metal it will grab and damage the panel or possibly cause injury.

I recently did this and was very pleased with the results. This is the best way to locate the holes where you want
and have very little additionall fitting required.

Just a thought ...........Rick

[Whaler]

Rick
I mic'd the O.D. of the gauges and they are 2 1/16" and 3 13/16"

So I also talked to a machine shop and they gave me that blank stare which is always telltale. They suggested using holesaws..LOL

So allowing for the dash covering etc I would likely have to go up to a standard size saw..2 1/8 and 3 3/4

I had done a test cut on a piece of similar scrap at work and you are right about slight warp..... also 2 inch was too small... I guess a massage with an air grinder would work..but nah.

The dash is .063" alum H14 3003..pretty soft and easily worked.

I will screw the dash down to a plank. Makes a very clean cut plunging into this backing.

I talked to an upholstery shop and asked about adhesive.They suggested contact cement..you guys have any suggestions there? I thought the summer heat /black dash would raise hell with contact cement ,like gum on hot pavement.

I am pleased with the look of the gauges. I have to get those lucas switches too.

Tim

[Whaler]

Hi guys
I ran into a problem. It seems the hand drawn layout supplied by my builder for the dash (as per 427 S/C) is nothing I can use.
I like the layout, but the measurements are off for my dash.

I also like the other layout we have seen posted, but it had no dimensions. I need those.

I need locations/measurements referenced from the steering column slot. Common ground will be the steering column and we go from there.

I will attach the pic I had, it won't work for me, as I don't have the distance to the left he says I should have(15 1/4")...My builder also is being sent the details of the dilemma.

The pic is in my gallery

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/index.php?photo=1278

Tim

[Roscoe]

Whaler,
If you want to use padding go with the thin (1/4") foam that autobody shops use under vinyl roofs, etc. I used this and covered it with tanned hide that I had laying around. Dyed it black and it looks really great.



Roscoe

[Whaler]

Thanks Roscoe.
i got my emial back from my builder and he apologized for the confusion saying the dash lay out was really to give me an idea of where the gauges are placed in relation to each other and that dimensions were not to be really adhered to.
I have really placed them in the same general layout just moved things accordingly.

As for the dash covering I was just at the upholstery chop today and we ordered a nice vinyl that has a great texture. Brought him the bottom leather cushion from my seat and we did okay matching up in both the exact matte shine/sheen, and texture/grain

Because my dash requires a piece thats 5 feet wide I had to order 2/3 yard ( it came in width of 54 inches on the roll) I told him the more the better as I will be doing the doorpanels in the same material.

I also have 1/8" close density foam backing coming, its used under vinyl roofs.

As for door panels I am confused in that I have read some have hardboard panels and some don't, instead gluing the covering right to the skin inside door. I think the panel is easiest ,but wonder what route to take.

Tim

[Roscoe]

My door panels were made out of fiberboard, like 1/8". I covered them with the same tanned hide as the dash. I made the door pockets using the fiberboard also.

I attached it using the OEM door panel buttons that snap into a drilled hole. Any auto store has them on their "Help" carousel. Or you can get them from a body/upholstery shop.



Roscoe

[Whaler]

Thanks Roscoe
I actually have your pic saved on my harddrive when i was collecting pics of doors and dashs
Nice to hear how you did and wht you used for hardware.

looks good

Tim

[Whaler]

Found a cutting tool made by Mibro..its a simple cutter bit on an adjustable arm with a centre pilot drill. It will cut 1-6 inch holes...
inside or outside circles.
Bit was used to cut holes exactly 2 1/8" and 3 7/8"

Much better than farting around with hole saws....

Done on a drill press at low speed and using plenty of A9 cutting fluid. Done slowly they turned out great.

Tim